Jump to content

What Switches Do You Use?


Recommended Posts

Posted

I'm looking for ideas on where to mount 2 Lighted Rocker Type Switches. I've seen a couple different switches that look pretty cool, however I'm not sure where I want to mount them. I wanted to see what other people are using to mount and what type of switches. I'm looking to use 2 switches. Any ideas and preferably pictures would be greatly appreciated :thumbs: Thanks.

 

-Brian

Posted

That looks cool. I havent figured out where to mount them though. I have to mount two switches so I'd like them to be the same. I was checking into these two:

 

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...700+150+325726+

 

http://www.vlsusa.com/cgi-bin/vlsusa/C-SW.html

 

Both switches are pretty cool looking. But I have to find a decent place to mount them. One will be for reverse/work lights. The other for turning my siren unit on and off to prevent it from draining the battery as its done lately. I thought someone here ran the switches up into the little cubby up near the ceiling. I may have to use that but I'm trying to find another idea to do without running wires up the A Pillars and having to replace the trim again. (d**n plastic).

Posted

if i had to mount aftermarket switches they would be hidden lke down at the bottom of the dash or on the driverside kick panel

Posted

i mounted these on my drivers side kick plate...

 

000_0086.jpg

 

000_0085.jpg

 

i'm very happy with they way they turned out.. sorry for the smears all over the kick plate... i guess i use it for wat its made for :crackup:

Posted

That would be pretty easy to install, but not as easily accessible. Where did you find those switches? Ive been kind of browsing the internet looking at different ones, dont remember seeing those.

Posted

well i actually found them up at pepboys, i can give you another idea that may be easier too, if you look at the lip of steel right under the part of the dashboard under the steering, its already pre-drilled with holes, just take your switches and mount them to that

 

the ones on the kickplate are easy because i literally hop in my truck, and reach to the left and turn them on with my foot...

 

i'll see if i can find a pic of the way my switches used to be.

 

goodluck :crackup:

steve!

Posted
That looks cool. I havent figured out where to mount them though. I have to mount two switches so I'd like them to be the same. I was checking into these two:

 

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...700+150+325726+

 

http://www.vlsusa.com/cgi-bin/vlsusa/C-SW.html

 

Both switches are pretty cool looking. But I have to find a decent place to mount them. One will be for reverse/work lights. The other for turning my siren unit on and off to prevent it from draining the battery as its done lately. I thought someone here ran the switches up into the little cubby up near the ceiling. I may have to use that but I'm trying to find another idea to do without running wires up the A Pillars and having to replace the trim again. (d**n plastic).

 

I like the Contura rockers - because there's so many different switch configurations available. I used the upper cubby as you described, and the top cubby of the console. I have 3 rockers + rotary switch in top, 4 rockers in console. Controls all my strobes & LED bar, air horns, air compressor, winch/aux power, + O/R lights. Pretty easy fab - just get some sheet metal at Home Depot, and use the reinforced cutoff wheels for a Dremel. Use masking tape to get straight cut lines. 2 pop-rivets in top, 4 in bottom hold the panels in securely, and only had to drill 1/8" holes in black plastic inserts for the rivets. You'll have to figure out how you'll feed the wires through the back - I drilled a small hole in top rear of both compartments. Access to these areas is easy.

 

Upper cubby

post-42640-1195134482_thumb.jpg

 

Lower Console

post-42640-1195134496_thumb.jpg

post-42640-1195134482_thumb.jpg

post-42640-1195134496_thumb.jpg

post-42640-1195134482_thumb.jpg

post-42640-1195134496_thumb.jpg

post-42640-1195134482_thumb.jpg

post-42640-1195134496_thumb.jpg

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,716
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    BDS my HD
    Newest Member
    BDS my HD
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 1 Anonymous, 511 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hello hello looking forward to expanding my knowledge of the 2026 2500 HD that I just bought.   Truck has 3500 miles on it four-wheel-drive crew cab and I’m about to put a 6 1/2 inch BDS lift on it 18 x 10 -25 offset with 37’s   Already have the wheels and tires just waiting on the lift install in about three weeks   Question what surprises am I not gonna be happy with?  I’m not new to lifted trucks so I know that acceleration towing gas mileage all that is affected..   Question is those of you that have this truck this powertrain with a 10 speed Allison and have done the mods that I’m doing,,, how bad is it? Is that Allison constantly gonna be hunting for the right gear to go into? And what about towing, acceleration, fuel consumption as mentioned?    Lastly how come I can’t find any ring pinion gear set up for these axles and when could I expect to see them?   I apologize if there’s any typos I’m doing speech to text on my iPhone.    
    • I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had managed to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...