Will Not Start

ROADFIXER · February 8, 2008

will not start.... Hello...

I have a 2001 express van LT / 5.7 / auto / 47k mi.

This van is only used for weekend and vaction trips March to November for winter it is stored inside with the battery cable disconnected.

I had to move the van so I connected the battery cable and it started up then stalled ( it had never done this before) when it restarted I had to hold some pressure on the throttle pedal to keep it running ( never had to do this before ) I backed out of the shop and noticed it was idling rough but after it warmed up seem to be ok... I let it run while I moved somethings around in the shop ( about 15 min ) when I started to pull it back into the shop it stalled and has never started since...it will crank over act as if its going to start but just dosen't...I have hooked my scanner up and get a no DTC's detected...

When turning the key on I can hear the fuel pump cycle on then off...

where do i go from here....

fixitmann · February 8, 2008

If it has been sitting for awhile you might want to check fuel quality{ water from condensation}.

ROADFIXER · February 9, 2008

Here's where i'm at as of today...I got the fuel filter off and caught everything in a pan there was no sign of water...

I've tried the "bang on the bottom of the tank" idea someone suggested still didn't start...

I'm going to pickup up a fuel pressure gage would anyone know what the fuel pressure should be....

2500ak · February 9, 2008

HEET will burn off any water, seafoam might clean lines out. How cold as it been?

ROADFIXER · February 10, 2008

update....

put a fuel pressure gage on it today....

with key on and pump runing 65 psi

with key on pump off 55psi

cranking engine over jumps from 58 to 62 as engine spins but dose'nt start...

is this correct pressure

ROADFIXER · February 10, 2008

To day I put my timming light on and cranked it over....nothing .... I tried ever wire...nothing...

Is this a coil or the security system not allowing it to start....

RaysZ71 · February 11, 2008

To day I put my timming light on and cranked it over....nothing .... I tried ever wire...nothing...

Is this a coil or the security system not allowing it to start....

I think the security disables the fuel pump. So my guess is coil.

minibike132 · February 12, 2008

Cold out? Take off the cap and look for condensation on the rotor and the distributor on the center button. Big problem this time of year.

ROADFIXER · February 14, 2008

Thanks for the ideas i will look into both those ideas this weekend but right now i need to get to bed i've been plowing and salt'n roads for two day now.....

ROADFIXER · February 16, 2008

Problem solved...

As it turns out the cap and rotor were junk and thats being kind...I would have never thought a cap and rotor would turn in to crap at 47k miles...

I would like to thank all that help on this mess...

Total cost of repair 58.00 dollars...

minibike132 · February 16, 2008

I was going to add something, There are two screens at the bottom of the distributor housing. You need to be sure and clean the inside of the distributor (just the area of the reluctor and module when the cap and rotor are removed) and blow all debris out. Try to scratch any rust off reluctor and housing and you may need to use a pick to remove and clean the screens if there is alot of build up. It is necessary to vent the distributor to let the ion buildup out. Problem is debris builds up and moisture comes in ports get blocked off and the moisture and ion buildup kills the cap and rotor quick.

ROADFIXER · December 24, 2009

Update II....Well went to start van today and same old thing as last time would bearly run...took out cap and rotor and as last time junk and in under 10k miles on the new parts from last repair...could this ever happen in 80 degree weather...lol.

Would anyone know of a premanent fix for this or a service bullentin for this problem...thx merry christmas.

skp05 · December 28, 2009

It's a known problem with this generation. I don't know if there is an official serv. bull. for your year, but check this(fine tuning section):

http://www.wellsmfgcorp.com/pdf/counterp_v8_i4_2004.pdf

Wells makes a lot of OEM ignition parts, so I trust them.

It hits home with your issue.

I was going to add something, There are two screens at the bottom of the distributor housing. You need to be sure and clean the inside of the distributor (just the area of the reluctor and module when the cap and rotor are removed) and blow all debris out. Try to scratch any rust off reluctor and housing and you may need to use a pick to remove and clean the screens if there is alot of build up. It is necessary to vent the distributor to let the ion buildup out. Problem is debris builds up and moisture comes in ports get blocked off and the moisture and ion buildup kills the cap and rotor quick.