Jump to content

Not truck related but tire shopping experience


RyanbabZ71

Recommended Posts

Posted

My gf bought a 93 escort about a month ago. 60K miles.  Pretty good car.  Needs a new idler tensioner (making noise) and i got one for free.  Well her dad has been checking things out and one of the tires is bad so she wants to go tire shopping at 7pm (after i got home from school).  First 2 places closed.  Next place a penske autocenter (kmart owned?).  We pull in i walk up to the door and it says hrs 8-7.  It was almost 7:30 so i start walking back to my truck and i see a guy running to the door.  He said whatcha need for your truck?  I said i need a new tire but not for my truck.  he said bring it in and we will see what we can do.  Take it in and have 3 choices all goodyear (which he dad wanted her to get).  By now its almost 7:45.  Get the new tire guy who put it on said NEVER USE FIX A FLAT he said the liquid stays inside the tire throwing off the balance.  He said thats what ruined this tire.  Got out of there around 7:50.  I was pretty amazed they helped us after hrs.  Great place very clean shop as well i couldnt believe it.  Floors were spotless.

I guess there are still good businesses out there

Posted

It amazes me sometimes how customer service has gone down the tubes so quickly.  But man it's great to get great service.  I bet you'll probably go back there woun't cha?  Even if the cost is a little higher, I would rather pay more and have great service, than be cheap and get nothing.

Posted

Personally i wouldnt go there because they do not really carry "truck" tires other than goodyear AT/S

But i wouldnt think twice to go there if needed

It wasnt that expensive ?.99 for a tire (175/70/R13 i think it was)

Compared to ? for my 285s

Posted

By the way what you were saying about the fix a flat, I worked at a gas station in High School and we would not touch a tire that someone put fix a flat in. It makes the biggest mess you ever saw.

Posted

I always heard that the stuff is solely for you to get to home, period.  Shouldnt drive far, shouldnt get the tire fixed, nothing.  I believe that its even somewhat dangerous to drive long term with the stuff in it.  I assume the reason is the out of balance issue.  I hate to ruin a tire but I'd rather know the wife has something in case AAA cant get there for some reason...we have one in her trunk...  

Posted

I use a small service station that is in a town about 20 minutes away from my tires.  I go to school with a kid who works there, so I know the job is getting done right.  Besides, if I ever need a flat repair or something all it costs me is a 12-pack of beer.  Split equally between the two of use, of course.  :biggrin:

Posted

I remember seeing something in the "Life's little instruction manual" to the small service station effect.  Something like "Take your car to the small local service station down the street.  The prices might be higher, but when your car won't start in the winter, you'll be glad they know you!"

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • This is interesting. My quote tagged here is different from my original quote. After I’m driving them longer. That isn’t me. I don’t talk that way. I definitely wouldn’t express myself that way. Interesting.
    • I have the same running boards on my truck and I do agree they are bulky. I also find myself stepping over them when getting in and out of the truck. Besides providing protection to the rocker panels, they aren't very useful.  I will be replacing them soon with the Amp Powersteps. 
    • Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...