Jump to content

Torsion Bar Weak?


Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi!,new here but not to gm products.I could not find an answer in a search so here goes.`01 suburban 2500 w/8.1. Front of truck was lower on DS. than pass. Turned up the torsion bar on DS and got the truck back to level R/L.I have almost no adjustment left on drivers side and have 3/4 of an in. showing on pass.side.Can (and do) torsion bars loose their spring after time?Should I replace?Do they make a heavier bar?I don`t know if the lager motor comes in to play in this scenario.Thanks,Toby

Posted
Hi!,new here but not to gm products.I could not find an answer in a search so here goes.`01 suburban 2500 w/8.1. Front of truck was lower on DS. than pass. Turned up the torsion bar on DS and got the truck back to level R/L.I have almost no adjustment left on drivers side and have 3/4 of an in. showing on pass.side.Can (and do) torsion bars loose their spring after time?Should I replace?Do they make a heavier bar?I don`t know if the lager motor comes in to play in this scenario.Thanks,Toby

 

 

Yes, Torsion bars start to sag over time. You can replace them with a heavier bar or you can get a set of green keys which have a higher index than your stock purple keys and that will give you more lift, even with your sagged bars. Suburban 2500's come with GK bars which have a torque capacity of 8615 ft.lbs. You could go with a GL bar which is standard on the 2500HD and 3500SRW. They have a torque capacity of 8782 ft. lbs. Changing the keys is a cheaper way to go but I think if you're in it for the long haul I would change out your bars, either to another set of GK's or go with the GL's. Read this article (www.offroad-tech.com/tech/tb401/) This will answer a lot of your questions.

Posted

It is completely normal for the adjustments on each side to be a little bit off from each other, but 3/4" showing on the bolt sounds like a little much. If you can afford it, I'd suggest replacing the bars, as it'll be a more reliable option. If you just get different keys, you'll have to keep cranking them every time the already worn t-bar sags a little bit.

Posted
It is completely normal for the adjustments on each side to be a little bit off from each other, but 3/4" showing on the bolt sounds like a little much. If you can afford it, I'd suggest replacing the bars, as it'll be a more reliable option. If you just get different keys, you'll have to keep cranking them every time the already worn t-bar sags a little bit.

Thank you for the replies gentlemen.I just went through the web page recommended by Jacqson and wrote done some part #`s and will check prices at the gmpartsdirect site for the GL bars and some new retainers.I`ll use my stock keys for now for I am contemplating a ready lift leveling kit with the shock mts.(auto-ride) which include keys, in the future to put on some 265`s or 285`s in the summer.Thanks again for the info.Toby

Posted
It is completely normal for the adjustments on each side to be a little bit off from each other, but 3/4" showing on the bolt sounds like a little much. If you can afford it, I'd suggest replacing the bars, as it'll be a more reliable option. If you just get different keys, you'll have to keep cranking them every time the already worn t-bar sags a little bit.

Thank you for the replies gentlemen.I just went through the web page recommended by Jacqson and wrote done some part #`s and will check prices at the gmpartsdirect site for the GL bars and some new retainers.I`ll use my stock keys for now for I am contemplating a ready lift leveling kit with the shock mts.(auto-ride) which include keys, in the future to put on some 265`s or 285`s in the summer.Thanks again for the info.Toby

 

 

Just as a side note. If you ever want to remove or have any questions about your autoride, let me know. I have successfuly removed it from my 02 Sub.

Guest Riggs
Posted

i would try to find or get a pair from a accident.

Posted

I checked with gmpartsdir. and they run $159 @ so I think I`ll just get a new pair.I`m going to keep this truck until it rots away and want to make it right.I also noticed that the rubber bump stops were cracked and funny looking and will change them out while I`m under there.If and when one one or more of the auto-ride shocks bite the big one,I`ll look you up Jacqson and I`ll have to address that issue then.Those factory shocks are quite pricey and how would you ever know if they were doing the auto-thing?I have to measure the torsion bars because I`m seeing same vehicles ones calling for 52" and 54".I`ll figure it out.Thanks again guy`s ,Toby

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • No, not yet. Hoping I'll have something a little more definitive in the next day or 2. They seemed to be very confident they can order it. I do have some understanding of the whole allocations and restraints stuff so we'll see.   I think this is what I'm looking for.   3000 ORDER ACCEPTED BY PRODUCTION CONTROL
    • Then you haven't read your book. It also says check every 400 miles.   If you need to add multiple quarts in that distance then reading the stick isn't the issue. Put the two together and it will make sense. Read it all.     
    • Following up on my topic, I put an O2 sensor in it which seems to have got rid of all the b2s1 codes (I ended up having multiple codes). Next I’ll try to figure out the P0011 but I might focus on exhaust manifolds first, they’re getting pretty rusty. I’m hoping this thread will help someone in the future.
    • I’m going off the instructions.
    • My expectations are a bit higher.    No faded paint or dry rotted plastic/rubber. I use a dressing and a ceramic sealant. No hazy headlights.  No door dings. Small dent in the front bumper. All rock chips repaired. No brush scratches. No windshield chips. No fender benders. Limit damage due to a proactive plan the included ceramics and PPF and prompt attention to any exterior issue. NO RUST. Stays out of the salt and had the rear wheel wells Line-X coated as well as the bed which has a bed rubber and has been under cover since before I bought it. Washed and detailed regularly. Rex chewed up the tow button, got whacked and the button replaced the same week. He's leaned his lesson. If I can train a dog the kids are easier.    All suspension is original save the King Shocks I installed very early on. 50 years ago dad told me a good shock will keep the screws in the dash tight and the front end mint. He was right. Everything within new spec yet, tight and aligned well several times. Coolant system is OEM save the modifications I made early on. Not a single leak anywhere on this machine. (Did repair an intake leak on #4 during the HPFP replacement.) The injectors I replaced didn't need to be. They checked out great. One of those, while I'm in there with the manifold off and the fuel rail apart things.  Not a stain or abrasion one to the upholstery. Have kept is covered since new. Never had a carpet, it's a work truck but the carpet squared I laid on the floor have keep the factory rubber liner MINT. Ceramic wind tint helps preserve the interior.    Original BRAKES with 60%+ left of the pads and rotors mic excellent. We just did a full preventative brake service. Disassembly, clean inspect including measurements, lube, Dot 4 power flush including ABS system.    OEM battery. OEM vacuum pump. In fact the only things not OEM are a pinion seal the high side pump and injectors and a small plastic shield around the starter. All hoses/belts etc.. are still in service and doing well. Original tires lasted 125K and had I known some additional details would have made it to 150K with legal tread. (Date out is six years, not 5 and Continental says they are good for 10 so I pulled the trigger to early)   I never let my children or grandchildren run the show. Feet on the floor and hands in your lap. Dog gets a pass.    A truck is a machine the gives you back whatever your willing to put into it. Same as a computer or a butter knife. I use a shovel but I scrap it, hose it off and oil it when I'm done with it. My original spade I've had 60 years.      Set the bar higher...you spend less money. No, before you ask, I have spent a fraction of the cost of a new truck in my entire maintenance program including disposables, filters/fluids etc.     
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...