Jump to content

Major Wheel 'wobble'!


sgchap3

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hey guys. I just had my inter. med. steering shaft replaced about 2 months at the dealer and they said my tires were looking pretty bad so I dropped a good amount on some Goodyear silent armor 20/275/55's and they are awesome! HOWEVER, I now have a major problem in the form of a horrible and annoying wobble at 65 - 75 mph! I've been back to the Goodyear dealer 3 times for new balancing and stuff and they said they are as prefect as they can get them.

 

I difinitely think there is now something else going on! I'm taking it to the dealer this Wed. to have them look it over. I know my shocks are starting to really feel 'soft' (feeling ever little bump or crack) and I'm about to replace them. I did also 'upgrade' my tie rod ends, idler arm and ball joints about a year ago with MOOG replacements. I also have upgraded sway bars front and rear...

 

The truck has just now got 40k miles

 

So I'm VERY much wanting to get rid of this 'WOBBLE' too and the Goodyear guys feel horrible too since they put these new badass tires on and now I'm having problems...

Also there is a clicking, tapping 'electiric' snapping noise coming out from under the truck somewhere. Hard to pin point. Just started noticing it too and was going to point it out to the dealer too...

 

I'm going to ask the dealer to check the following:

1. Tie rods

2. Hub assy.

3. Steering arm(s)

4. Bearings

5. Bad tire(s) Goodyear says no

6. Bad rim(s) Goodyear says no

7. U-joints

 

Anything else anyone can think of???

Posted

65-75 mph doesn't sound like bend or balance. Sounds more like lateral runout harmonic (wobble.) I recommend further investigation by spinning the wheels on the truck under power while on a lift and observe.

Posted

Ok hubby is that something the dealer can do and what can/would be causing that?

 

65-75 mph doesn't sound like bend or balance. Sounds more like lateral runout harmonic (wobble.) I recommend further investigation by spinning the wheels on the truck under power while on a lift and observe.
Posted

Any shop with a lift could do it. You may want to get a second opinion this way you may discover an unmentioned tire defect by your tire dealer. The fact that you have no vibration at higher speeds means that the tires are balanced, so what's left is possibly a wobbling wheel (bent out of 90 degree plane with the spindle,) or a defective tire that has lateral (side to side) movement. Both of these conditions could balance, but exhibit vibration harmonics at various speed ranges.

 

On a lift the rotation speed could be reached and you would see the effect and location of the vibration, as the wheel should bounce. If you have 4WD you could spin all wheels at high speed without dismounting any from the vehicle.

 

Typically, if you can feel it you can see it in the movement of the wheel. A lateral runout of .010" - .020" should be fairly easy to see. If your technician is game, a dial indicator as is used to check rotor runout on the vehicle could give you a good idea of where the culprit is.

 

BTW, do you feel the problem in the steering wheel?

Posted
Minor thread jack. Hubbycap, you're the one that does wheel repair, correct?

 

He is, he's helped me out before. Great guy to deal with. :D

Posted

Yes Hubby I do feel it in the steering wheel and it very annoying and almost scary to drive cause it shakes so bad it feels unsafe... I'm going to ask the Chevy dealship to do what you said here first then the tire or garage I get my work done at too...

 

Any shop with a lift could do it. You may want to get a second opinion this way you may discover an unmentioned tire defect by your tire dealer. The fact that you have no vibration at higher speeds means that the tires are balanced, so what's left is possibly a wobbling wheel (bent out of 90 degree plane with the spindle,) or a defective tire that has lateral (side to side) movement. Both of these conditions could balance, but exhibit vibration harmonics at various speed ranges.

 

On a lift the rotation speed could be reached and you would see the effect and location of the vibration, as the wheel should bounce. If you have 4WD you could spin all wheels at high speed without dismounting any from the vehicle.

 

Typically, if you can feel it you can see it in the movement of the wheel. A lateral runout of .010" - .020" should be fairly easy to see. If your technician is game, a dial indicator as is used to check rotor runout on the vehicle could give you a good idea of where the culprit is.

 

BTW, do you feel the problem in the steering wheel?

Posted

Check the idler arm my blazer did the same and that was the problem, I'm not sure what yours is but I would check that or the pitman arm/

Posted

Just something else to add:

 

So something else I have noticed the last weeks or so watching this 'problem'. In the morning it's much worst when I first drive, it's about 3 miles from my house til I jump on the highway and go 65+ and sometime in the afternoon or early evening when it's warmer out or the truck has been driven it's almost not there...

Posted

So I went to Goodyear today and they pulled off my 2 front tires. They said the one was 'hopping' around on the machine and they replaced it with a new. An hour later I jumped on the highway, hit 65 and still 'wobbling'...

 

The truck is going to the dealership tomorrow all day and I told them to look over EVERYTHING! Let's hope they fine somthing or I all already told the Goodyear guys I'm not liking this whole thing...

Posted

Thanks I'll see whats up with the dealer tomorrow and go from there. I was also thinking these tires might be alittle to 'tready' for my truck and looking at something else they have (Goodyear) Fortera Triple Tred ove the more aggressive Wrangler Silent Armors I got...

Posted

Is there any change in the wobble if the wheels are swapped between the front/rear?

bbwb

Posted

Dealership confirms it's the tires... Said they aren't balancing right and they tried and still got the 'wobble' plus the one is hopping. They said get different tires or road force balance these and I'm thinking new Fortera Triple Tred's cause the Goodyear guys already offered...

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I just can't think of the exact term GM uses for that higher gvw package without looking at the website but basically sort of a trailering package and I imagine it may also have been created to skirt around the licensing fee differences between a3/4 and 1 ton that apply in some states although ironically I believe in some states its the reverse that a 1 ton is the cheaper truck to license over a 3/4 ton. It makes no difference here in Alberta but oddly enough a 1 ton through my insurance company is a bit cheaper to insure over a 3/4 ton as its based on the insurance statistics they generate.    For sure when ever you do have the chance to weigh your truck and to be fair, try to have the fuel tank full or nearly so rather than give yourself a false sense of the truck being lighter by having an almost empty tank.    In my other comment I was mentioning stock sized tires and partly in case someone was reading this and thinking they could lower their pressure down to what your aftermarket tires are able to do with your empty truck as that is a vastly different picture in the leeway you have to play with for running minimum pressures while remaining safe. I will say also that its easy to see from reactions of truck owners that may have been more used to owning a half ton in the past or a car and be it on a forum like this or in person etc that they get so wrapped up in that placard pressure sticker that they can't get their head wrapped around the fact that an HD truck due to how much it can carry can also vary the tire pressures drastically lower than those pressures ( typically more so for the rear axle on stock sized tires ) when empty vs some car that isn't made to carry much so the tire pressures can't be lowered since it needs almost that much pressure just to carry the empty car.    If I ever do find myself in the states with this truck, I will only be too happy to switch it over to the US measuring system as then I will understand all the dash readings. The only thing that is off for me slightly with US measurements is US miles per gallon as I grew up with the Imperial gallon and to this day up here anyway speak in Imperial miles per gallon ( I don't do that on this forum though as that would confuse everyone for no good reason ). 
    • Yes that's right, it's the upgrade that includes the overload spring and all that stuff.   Someday when I'm empty and going by a scale I'm going to stop in and get some weight readings.   Exactly  you should have the ability to change individual settings, in in Canada so I'm driving with kph but then I'm stuck with kpa when I want psi lol    
    • You must have that upgraded gvw package which is only available or at least was in 2025 with the diesel engine for the 3/4 ton and that gave the truck physically the larger 12.0 ring gear rear diff and the 3500 rear spring pack. There is a difference in what the diff housing looks like externally as one tell tale and also your truck should have the upper overload spring pack and the frame pads that the pack goes up against.    The pressure the tpms system kicks the alarm in on a stock setting truck, that is a good question and was just from what I recall but I doubt I made any notes on it as I knew for the rear that it was not at all what I was after regardless either. Being that you have a diesel and if running on stock tires the minimum pressure on an empty truck seems to be around 50 psi from hearing of those that have weighted the front axle but the rear axle is very similar in weight to a gas truck and again a near empty truck on the rear could go down to 35 pounds at minimum. However the weigh scale is the proper way to know for sure as a guide.    As to changing the readings on the dash from metric to the US measuring system, oh yes that is done easily but what I was attempting to explain was that I can't pick and choose items I want to have in US and those I still want in the metric system at the same time as its either all or none. For example lets say you drove into Canada and switched your dash over to metric so your speedometer read in km an hour, well then your reading kilopascals on your tpms readout and your wife looks over and says what the hell is that saying in the tpms screen and you say "darned if I know, I think its Chinese" !
    • This is partly why I decided to have switched over to Amsoil SS as a way of hopefully preventing the buildup of the sludge/carbon on the pistons and clogging of the oil control rings and the carbon that would cause the compression rings to stick in their grooves as well as stay cleaner up top of the heads in the valve train in the first place, an oil that has tested better by third party testing over typical shelf oil and also doing my best to run relatively short OCI. However in saying that I don't think there is any way to easily prove the oil I was using prior allowed for a buildup at the OCI I was doing, nor in the other direction to make claims the Amsoil is keeping everything clean either. There really isn't a window into the engine is there to know anything for certain even if oil samples were taken for example that showed still healthy oil being dropped out of the oil pan other than engine tear downs that extensive and expensive testing of oils does to actually visually see what is really going on inside the engine. I wish there was some easy method of seeing what is going on but I don't happen to be aware of that if there is.  
    • My truck is a ¾ ton but my placard also says 80 for the rear tires, I think I might have the upgraded suspension to the 3500 series maybe.   I put my air down to 60 and the light was still on, and there was no way I was putting over 60 psi in the rear empty and not towing because I knew the actual number Toyo gave me and I didn't wanna ruin the center of my tires!   And you actually can change it in the settings from metric or is and it will show kph or mph then when you go into your tire settings it will be either psi or kpa, but it would be nice to just change it directly on the tire psi page 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...