Jump to content

New Amp


Recommended Posts

Posted

alright i have a MTX TC4002 right now its powering 2 subs one on each channel.. (100 Watt RMS x 2 @ 4ohm)

 

anyways my subs are good for 300 Watt a piece RMS.. they are 12" MTX 5500's SVC

 

i was looking for amps and i don't really know what to buy.. i seen a kenwood that wasn't a bad price and had a 150 Watt x 2 which would help put out a little bit more power..

what would you recommend? i would like to use the full potential of these since if i put more power they (should) pound a little bit harder and sound better..

 

thanks again!

Posted

nope..

 

as a matter of fact i bought that exact same one to power 1 10.. (kicker zx300.1)

 

i just sold it yesterday to my friend LOL...

 

im looking to power 2 subs.. both 300 Watt RMS a piece..

they are both these:

 

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_7701_M...o+T5512-04.html

 

and my amp (Currently) is this:

http://www.mtx.com/caraudio/products/amplifiers/TC4002.cfm

 

as you can see it only puts out 100 x 2 (so each sub is only getting 100 watt's)

 

im looking for like 150 watts+ x2 i would like more bass and i think i can achieve that with just a new amp.. you guys that know more about this stuff than i do and where to look could help me out here..

 

thanks AGAIN BTW i love my enter button :D

Posted

If I had about $175 and was looking at getting a more powerful amp I would go with this. It will give you 500wrms mono at 2 ohms, and if you decide to add another sub just like that it will give you a little more power since you will end up with a 1.33 ohm load. If you look at that site there are more options for just a little more $. Example another hifonics, or this TMA amp made by JL with free shipping. Those will give you about 700wrms at 2ohm and if you add another sub or upgrade will give you more power, 1k wrms at 1ohm. :sigh:

Posted

IMHO i'm not an expert in any book, but i received advice from some when i was building a system for my old truck. It goes like this...

 

Common sense. Supposing that you want the best results from your subs, you need to match Amp "RMS" wattage with the sub(s) "RMS" wattage. Your subwoofers are 600w RMS together, so you need an amplifier with 600w RMS. Plain and Simple.

 

From what I know monoblocks are the best. With these you can put 1 sub with it and pull the total RMS to that one, or take two subs and split the RMS between them. This is the route I went and it was perfect. I don't even think he mentioned 2, 3, 4 channel amplifiers to me. I would find a good monoblock amp that puts out 600w RMS to match your subs.

 

Hope this helps.

Posted
or should i just buy another one of these:

 

http://www.dealercostcaraudio.com/08ZX300.1.aspx

 

i really liked that amp..

 

i would end up putting an extra 50 Watts more to both subs.. so i would be alright i guess.

 

 

This would work well if your current amp is 300 RMS. You can hook a 300 RMS amp to each amp (2 300 RMS amps) of have one 600 RMS amp to each. Either way would be good.

 

Less power (RMS-wise) to each sub is ample, but your subs aren't performing to their best. Hope this helps.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
    • Do you think this width might affect the chalk test with a higher pressure closer to 65psi? I think lowering the pressure makes sense to get the tread to lay flatter
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...