Jump to content

Help With Sub And Amp Install Using Factory Hu

07.5_Z71

By 07.5_Z71
in Audio, Electronics & Software

Recommended Posts

07.5_Z71 Enthusiast

07.5_Z71

Posted
Posted

I kept my 10" sub along with the 4 channel 300 watt amp that was in my 2003 silverado and I am looking to install it in my new body style 2007 Gmc CC with Bose system using the factory head unit. I have searched and read just about all that I can off of this site about the install and still have many questions.

 

First-I went to a local electronics shop and told him what I wanted to do and he gave me the PAC SNI-15 line output converter. Will this work for obtaining the needed RCA jacks??

 

second-My truck DOES have the Bose system and I have heard different suggestions on how to go about hooking up amp and sub, with Bose how complicated is the install?

 

third-I've read that the amp for the Bose system is under the center console along with a crappy wanna be sub, do I have to do a double amp install to include all speakers or can I get away with 1 amp going to my 10" sub?

 

fourth-What size power wire and ground wire would ya'll suggest I use?

 

I did all of the install in my last truck so I have the ability to do my own work, but with the Bose I have heard different things and I want to get it all straight before I start the install.

 

I have included pics of speaker box and amp just to show what I am working with, it's nothing fancy but like I said above, I just want a little bump with my music, not window rattling bass.

The speaker box was made for a 2006 Chevy Avalanche but fits pretty nice under my seat, not perfect but good enough for me.

DSC00587.jpg

 

DSC00589.jpg

 

DSC00590.jpg

08VortecMax Enthusiast

08VortecMax

Posted
Posted
I kept my 10" sub along with the 4 channel 300 watt amp that was in my 2003 silverado and I am looking to install it in my new body style 2007 Gmc CC with Bose system using the factory head unit. I have searched and read just about all that I can off of this site about the install and still have many questions.

 

First-I went to a local electronics shop and told him what I wanted to do and he gave me the PAC SNI-15 line output converter. Will this work for obtaining the needed RCA jacks??

 

second-My truck DOES have the Bose system and I have heard different suggestions on how to go about hooking up amp and sub, with Bose how complicated is the install?

 

third-I've read that the amp for the Bose system is under the center console along with a crappy wanna be sub, do I have to do a double amp install to include all speakers or can I get away with 1 amp going to my 10" sub?

 

fourth-What size power wire and ground wire would ya'll suggest I use?

 

I did all of the install in my last truck so I have the ability to do my own work, but with the Bose I have heard different things and I want to get it all straight before I start the install.

 

I have included pics of speaker box and amp just to show what I am working with, it's nothing fancy but like I said above, I just want a little bump with my music, not window rattling bass.

The speaker box was made for a 2006 Chevy Avalanche but fits pretty nice under my seat, not perfect but good enough for me.

DSC00587.jpg

 

DSC00589.jpg

 

DSC00590.jpg

 

 

It is just my opinion, But; Looking at the sub you have and what you are looking for I would dump the 4 channel little amp and go with a maybe 300watt rms MONO amp for the woofer leaving your current system in place. This way all you have to do is run rca's to the amp and speaker wires from the amp to woofer without touching anything else.

 

If you were going to change the door speakers to components you could then use your 4 channel amp to power those. Just a thought.

07.5_Z71 Enthusiast

07.5_Z71

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I kept my 10" sub along with the 4 channel 300 watt amp that was in my 2003 silverado and I am looking to install it in my new body style 2007 Gmc CC with Bose system using the factory head unit. I have searched and read just about all that I can off of this site about the install and still have many questions.

 

First-I went to a local electronics shop and told him what I wanted to do and he gave me the PAC SNI-15 line output converter. Will this work for obtaining the needed RCA jacks??

 

second-My truck DOES have the Bose system and I have heard different suggestions on how to go about hooking up amp and sub, with Bose how complicated is the install?

 

third-I've read that the amp for the Bose system is under the center console along with a crappy wanna be sub, do I have to do a double amp install to include all speakers or can I get away with 1 amp going to my 10" sub?

 

fourth-What size power wire and ground wire would ya'll suggest I use?

 

I did all of the install in my last truck so I have the ability to do my own work, but with the Bose I have heard different things and I want to get it all straight before I start the install.

 

I have included pics of speaker box and amp just to show what I am working with, it's nothing fancy but like I said above, I just want a little bump with my music, not window rattling bass.

The speaker box was made for a 2006 Chevy Avalanche but fits pretty nice under my seat, not perfect but good enough for me.

DSC00587.jpg

 

DSC00589.jpg

 

DSC00590.jpg

 

 

It is just my opinion, But; Looking at the sub you have and what you are looking for I would dump the 4 channel little amp and go with a maybe 300watt rms MONO amp for the woofer leaving your current system in place. This way all you have to do is run rca's to the amp and speaker wires from the amp to woofer without touching anything else.

 

If you were going to change the door speakers to components you could then use your 4 channel amp to power those. Just a thought.

 

 

 

Plz. excuse my questioning but I am not up to par on the purpose of doing what you suggest, not downing it, I simply don't have much knowledge with the electronics, I can do a simple install but never had to deal with anything besides that.

 

If I were to choose to ditch the Bose speakers in all 4 doors and replace with a better quality, which I have considered, what would you suggest then??

07.5_Z71 Enthusiast

07.5_Z71

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Okay questions, the Bose door speakers are they ran off of the amp mounted in console or is that amp just for that crappy sub under there also. If so just replacing the door speakers they could still be ran off of that factory amp?

Where do you get those speaker adapters from?

08VortecMax Enthusiast

08VortecMax

Posted
Posted
I kept my 10" sub along with the 4 channel 300 watt amp that was in my 2003 silverado and I am looking to install it in my new body style 2007 Gmc CC with Bose system using the factory head unit. I have searched and read just about all that I can off of this site about the install and still have many questions.

 

First-I went to a local electronics shop and told him what I wanted to do and he gave me the PAC SNI-15 line output converter. Will this work for obtaining the needed RCA jacks??

 

second-My truck DOES have the Bose system and I have heard different suggestions on how to go about hooking up amp and sub, with Bose how complicated is the install?

 

third-I've read that the amp for the Bose system is under the center console along with a crappy wanna be sub, do I have to do a double amp install to include all speakers or can I get away with 1 amp going to my 10" sub?

 

fourth-What size power wire and ground wire would ya'll suggest I use?

 

I did all of the install in my last truck so I have the ability to do my own work, but with the Bose I have heard different things and I want to get it all straight before I start the install.

 

I have included pics of speaker box and amp just to show what I am working with, it's nothing fancy but like I said above, I just want a little bump with my music, not window rattling bass.

The speaker box was made for a 2006 Chevy Avalanche but fits pretty nice under my seat, not perfect but good enough for me.

DSC00587.jpg

 

DSC00589.jpg

 

DSC00590.jpg

 

 

It is just my opinion, But; Looking at the sub you have and what you are looking for I would dump the 4 channel little amp and go with a maybe 300watt rms MONO amp for the woofer leaving your current system in place. This way all you have to do is run rca's to the amp and speaker wires from the amp to woofer without touching anything else.

 

If you were going to change the door speakers to components you could then use your 4 channel amp to power those. Just a thought.

 

 

 

Plz. excuse my questioning but I am not up to par on the purpose of doing what you suggest, not downing it, I simply don't have much knowledge with the electronics, I can do a simple install but never had to deal with anything besides that.

 

If I were to choose to ditch the Bose speakers in all 4 doors and replace with a better quality, which I have considered, what would you suggest then??

 

 

 

:lol: My suggestion is about as simple as audio can get. And, I will say again; If you upgrade your Bose speakers you can power them with the amp you currently have.

Z71kris Senior Enthusiast

Z71kris

Posted
Posted

all right when did they add a delete post to the forum, or to my lap top? I spent 20 mins typing a well thought post with links and shit only to delete the entire thing..BS!

 

Anyways, I think what is trying to be said is that if you want to keep your original amp you can, and if you wanted to replace you bose speakers, you would use that power the new speakers, and then replace that amp for your sub with a 2 channel one. As for wires if you only plan to run one amp I would use these wires, if you were going to run two in the future I would use these wires\.

 

Yes I think the PAC SNI-15 will work fine to add the amp to the truck, steal the signal before the bose amp inside the console. I am not the most knowledgeable about the bose systems, but I think that all speakers powered by the amp or a amp.

 

Hope that helps!

07.5_Z71 Enthusiast

07.5_Z71

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thank you 08VortecMax and Z71kris. I believe I have figured out what I am going to do. Sorry for my questioning but when I first started doing my search, I found that alot of people made it seem difficult to add speakers and an amp with the Bose factory system so I became overly worried and with my only basic knowledge of this stuff I needed help. Once again appreciate all suggestions and help...

08VortecMax Enthusiast

08VortecMax

Posted
Posted
Thank you 08VortecMax and Z71kris. I believe I have figured out what I am going to do. Sorry for my questioning but when I first started doing my search, I found that alot of people made it seem difficult to add speakers and an amp with the Bose factory system so I became overly worried and with my only basic knowledge of this stuff I needed help. Once again appreciate all suggestions and help...

 

 

Good luck with your install. I am buying everything I need and will be starting my install soon. It is great to know we have a forum such as this to seek help. I know I will be asking for some. The sub enclosure build will be first.

LousCrew Enthusiast

LousCrew

Posted
Posted
Thank you 08VortecMax and Z71kris. I believe I have figured out what I am going to do. Sorry for my questioning but when I first started doing my search, I found that alot of people made it seem difficult to add speakers and an amp with the Bose factory system so I became overly worried and with my only basic knowledge of this stuff I needed help. Once again appreciate all suggestions and help...

 

 

Good luck with your install. I am buying everything I need and will be starting my install soon. It is great to know we have a forum such as this to seek help. I know I will be asking for some. The sub enclosure build will be first.

 

Before building an enclosure, I would check out this site:

Pro Box Enclosures

 

The boxes are very specific for your vehicle. For instance, on my 06, the company has different boxes depending on what the first digit of your VIN is (1=US, 2=Canada). Apparently, the truck differs slightly and probox made a different box for each. I love it. Fits perfectly behind the back seat.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,913
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Smitty462
    Newest Member
    Smitty462
    Joined

  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 576 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Another JR
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By Another JR · Posted

      Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • newdude
      Gas fill door

      By newdude · Posted

      Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • jaszr2
      Active Grille Delete

      By jaszr2 · Posted

      Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • jake111
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By jake111 · Posted

      I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...