Wiring Truck For Trailer Brakes

[01truck]

My truck that I just bought didnt come with towing package. Someone has put a aftermarket hitch on the truck but never wired it for trailer brakes. How hard is this to do? Would taking it to a dealer be a better idea? Thanks

[farmallcub]

Depending on the year of your truck, it should have a wiring connection in the harness for a trailer connection at the back. You can buy the matching plugs or connectors at most decent auto parts stores.

As far as installing a brake actuator, I just did it and used this site for reference and to compare the wiring connections againt the instructions that came with the controller.

http://www.etrailer.com/faq-brake-control-...-silverado.aspx

[farmallcub]

BTW, if you do it yourself, a decent meter and a test light are a must along with paper and pencil for diagraming your connections. If you put it on paper, you can usually eliminate mistakes.

Remember, there is smoke in all the parts and you are not supposed to let it out.

Wiring a hitch is not that difficult if you just look at it one step at a time. Figure out your power connection and grounds first.

If you put a brake controller on, the newer trucks have a wiring connection tucked up under the dash that makes it pretty easy.

[07 CC Sierra]

Depending on the year of your truck, it should have a wiring connection in the harness for a trailer connection at the back. You can buy the matching plugs or connectors at most decent auto parts stores.

As far as installing a brake actuator, I just did it and used this site for reference and to compare the wiring connections againt the instructions that came with the controller.

http://www.etrailer.com/faq-brake-control-...-silverado.aspx

 

Which brake controller did you go with, and why? I'm in the process of buying a boat that has electric brakes, so I'll be doing this soon as well.

 

Thanks

[c4cruiser]

One of the best controllers available is the Tekonsha "Prodigy" You can find them on the internet for around $100-$120. They also offer vehicle-specific "plug-and-play" controller wiring harnesses so you don't have to splice wires under the dash to hook it up. One end plugs into the controller, the other end plugs into the box that is under the dash and you're done.

 

Trucks that came with a trailering package had all the wiring to the rear in place and also came with a small harness for a brake controller. It had the connector for the underdash side and bare wires on the other. With that, any controller could be used simply by matching and splicing the wire colors. You also got a fuse to power up the 12v plug on the 7-pin connector. Without the trailer package, you will have to wire up the 12v wire and the brake controller wire to the back of the truck.

 

As far as the truck harness for the trailer, my suggestion would be to go to an RV shop that does trailering wiring installation. Or ask thje boat shop if they do that work. If the boat trailer has electric brakes, you will also need a 12v power source from the truck to keep the battery for the trailer "breakaway box" charged up. Find out what sort of trailer wiring connector is going to come with the trailer. I would recommend having a 7-pin connector installed on the truck and have the boat trailer connector made to match that.

 

DIY wiring can be risky if you don't have experience in vehicle wiring. It may cost some to have it done, but it will be done right. No sparks, no smoke, and no burned wires.

[bill190]

Being as you're asking...

 

And being as this is a very important safety thing...

 

I would advise you to have an expert do this. If your not sure of what power circuit you are connecting to, you might use a fused circuit and overload that circuit. Then the fuse blows and you don't have trailer brakes!

 

The worst situation would be the fused circuit is borderline and will continue to work until used excessively. Say going downhill for a long stretch and using the brakes a lot, THEN the fuse blows!

 

Basically you need to use the correct size wire to handle the electrical load (too small and it can melt!), connect directly to the battery and not a fused circuit, and use a self-resetting circuit breaker instead of a fuse. And use the correct amperage circuit breaker.

 

Also the more brakes/axles you will ever have on any trailer you will ever pull, the more amperage they will draw.

 

Another thing is being careful with the running of wires so they don't rub against sharp metal edges and protecting the wires. Over time a wire can rub back and forth against the metal edge and short out. Of course this will happen going down that long hill!

[farmallcub]

I agree on safety.

If you are not comfortable with this, get someone that knows what they are doing.

 

With that said, the link I posted:

http://www.etrailer.com/faq-brake-control-...-silverado.aspx

shows where to find those 12V power connections for the seven pin plug. It is very specific and the connections are even sized for the right post, which gives them the proper fuse protection.

 

I just bought a Valley brake controller. For my use (one axle brakes), they work fine with adjustable ramp and response settings.

 

The wiring under the dash of my 09 did not have a plug connection, wire ends.

 

The rear of the truck should have the proper plug to attach your trailer connection. My 04 had this connection as did my 09. You just buy the right connector and they snap together.

 

I was rather pleased to find that Chevy even made a place in the bumper to set your plug assembly. The blank that was in it already had the harness connection fastened to it so it also acted to protect the plug from the elements. This location is much more solid and protected than a bracket hanging under the bumper or attached to the hitch. An attaboy for Chevy.

[Ranger]

I have that same connector on mine, as 99% of the trailers I pull are 4-pin flats (no brakes)...

 

I think the 2001s have a port for the trailering harness under the dash, the new body styles (07+) just have a bundle of stubbed wires taped up by the kick panel.

[brims]

Another thing is being careful with the running of wires so they don't rub against sharp metal edges and protecting the wires. Over time a wire can rub back and forth against the metal edge and short out. Of course this will happen going down that long hill!

 

Doesn't always have to be a sharp edge, I've seen the insulation get worn down on a dull edge. So just protect the wires really well.

 

 

Basically you need to use the correct size wire to handle the electrical load (too small and it can melt!), connect directly to the battery and not a fused circuit, and use a self-resetting circuit breaker instead of a fuse. And use the correct amperage circuit breaker.

 

Do they sell J-case style breakers?