Somewhat Dumb Brake Question

MikeInCtown · March 28, 2009

On my 04 the lugnuts were rusted to the studs so good that I snapped three off trying to get the wheel off. In order to replace the studs I had to try and pull the caliper. Seems simple enough right?

The lower GD torx bolt in the caliper stripped out so I had to pull the whole bracket off in order to get to the studs. (the rotor is frozen on the hub too, but that's another story. )

Anyway, it doesn't look like I'll ever get that one bolt out with any tools that I have so I was wondering if pads can be changed if the caliper is still bolted to the bracket? Lucky for me the pads look near new right now but at some point I'll have to chnge them out. (and I have a nasty squeal that appears when I am slowing down slowly vs hard braking -all pads look fine.)

Almost wondering if at some point I'll just have to replace the whole spindle assembly with the hub assembly, rotor, caliper, and bracket when I finally do the job.

Thanks,

Mike

VR021302 · March 28, 2009

Yes you can change them while attatched to the bracket. Try spraying the hell out of the bolt with penetrant (PB blaster, WD40, etc), and use an easy-out (from the local auto parts, or home improvement place). It will take a lil time, but its cheaper than buying all new parts.

csheatz · March 28, 2009

Yes you can change them while attatched to the bracket. Try spraying the hell out of the bolt with penetrant (PB blaster, WD40, etc), and use an easy-out (from the local auto parts, or home improvement place). It will take a lil time, but its cheaper than buying all new parts.

+1

If you ever get it off, or if you have to replace get some anti-seez (why cant i think how the hell to spell that?) I use that stuff on the brake slides, and on the hat of the rotor where it meets the wheel and the hub, also on the wheel studs...... I should clairify that i use a VERY small amount, these things are meant to be tight, but a very small amount will go a long way and save some trouble later on!

MikeInCtown · March 28, 2009

Thanks guys. I was hoping I could change the pads without removing the caliper from the bracket.

I use high temp anti sieze in everything I have a bolt on unless it specifically says to use loc-tite like the inner tie rods. -found out maybe not such a good idea on spark plugs though. I'll pick up an extractor set sometime soon and and a new bolt for the caliper so I have everything ready for the next time. Hopefully I can pull the rotor off the hub next time I have the wheel off.

Matt_ · March 28, 2009

you can also take the top caliper bolt off, rotate the caliper about the bottom bolt and replace the pads like that. Actually you should be able to take the whole caliper off with the bottom bolt still attached... just slide it off to relube the slider so it doesn't eventually sieze.

Depending on how rusted the rotor is to the hub, you'll likely have to beat the hell out of it with a hammer and you might have to replace it. If you have air tools, try tapping it with an air hammer around the studs to break it up

MikeInCtown · March 28, 2009

you can also take the top caliper bolt off, rotate the caliper about the bottom bolt and replace the pads like that. Actually you should be able to take the whole caliper off with the bottom bolt still attached... just slide it off to relube the slider so it doesn't eventually sieze.

Depending on how rusted the rotor is to the hub, you'll likely have to beat the hell out of it with a hammer and you might have to replace it. If you have air tools, try tapping it with an air hammer around the studs to break it up

I'll give that a try next time I pull the wheel off. I guess I would have to pull the pads out first though because they interlock with the bracket. Would also have to pull the bracket off too because the brake hose isn't long enough to allow the caliper to rotate back like that. It would make bolt extraction a lot easier though.

Matt_ · March 28, 2009

You should be able to remove the caliper without removing the pads or bracket...

Might take some finnegaling, but its doable

Post some pics so we can get a better look

MikeInCtown · March 28, 2009

You should be able to remove the caliper without removing the pads or bracket...

Might take some finnegaling, but its doable

Post some pics so we can get a better look

Pics will have to come at some other point. I removed the caliper with the bracket last night and got the studs done. I wasn't able to remove the rotor but didn't need to in order to get to the studs. (Pads are near new)Everything is back together and I drove it around our garage area to make sure I had brakes.

I'm looking for info for future need right now as the rotor is frozen to the hub and the caliper bolt is stripped. I'm hoping that when it's time to replace the hub that I can get those three bolts out and don't snap them off. If the rotor really is frozen on there I won't be able to apply heat to anything to get the hub free.

I think I am having so many problems because the truck sat on the dealer lot for a year before I bought it and the cover was missing on the rim for that wheel so everything on that wheel had plenty of time to rust. Everything else on the truck is in top shape though and the only thing I am doing is general maintenance for it's miles. (do have a very small coolant leak though)

rogerf · March 28, 2009

I'm looking for info for future need right now as the rotor is frozen to the hub and the caliper bolt is stripped. I'm hoping that when it's time to replace the hub that I can get those three bolts out and don't snap them off. If the rotor really is frozen on there I won't be able to apply heat to anything to get the hub free.

Show no mercy. Best way to remove frozen rotors...BFH, then replace with new. The frozen caliper bolt will likely require disconnecting the hydraulic line to remove the entire assembly from the vehicle so it can be clamped into a bench vise for leverage. Have been able to remove these bolts by hammering an oversized hex tool into what's left of the head. Sometimes takes a little heat, sometimes an impact. Plan on trashing both the tool and the bolt in the process.

Matt_ · March 28, 2009

if you're able to rotate then slide off the caliper while leaving the arbor in place, then reistall the upper caliper bolt/slider, leaving the bottom out.

Is this driver or passenger side?

If passenger:

Rotate the caliper about the upper bolt clockwise until it is making contact with the arbor. Grap onto the lower caliper bolt with a set of good vice grips (nice and tight) and try to loosen it like that. Remember lefty/loosy righty/tighty when looking at the HEAD of the bolt... so facing inwards you'll need to go clockwise. Yes you will need a new bolt... but you need one anways since it is stripped.

From driver side:

Same as above but you'll need to shim the caliper with something so it doesnt rotate down to the arbor... a piece of wood, pry bar, screw driver, etc will work.

CapitalTruck · March 29, 2009

One note about rotating the caliper about the lower bolt as opposed to the top, the brake line is attached to the top of the caliper and prohibits it from moving too far. Also, it's hard to use a BFH with these rotors because there is a shield that runs all the way around the back of them. Good luck, I would by a "fully loaded" replacement caliper. This will include everything you need.

Matt_ · March 29, 2009

Using an 8mm socket remove the little tab that holds the brake line to the spindle. That should give plenty of slack to allow the caliper to rotate enough to slide off, it doesnt have to go 180 degrees... just enough to slide it off. You can also turn the spindle so that you're rotating the caliper towards the frame (inwards) which will help with the slack too.