Jump to content

Zomg!111oneone...5202 Hid Kit Installed


Recommended Posts

Posted

The hell I did. :D Enough waiting for those crappy ass 5202 bulbs. I did the 880 conversion and utilized Hemisareslow and Fulton1's write ups from dieselplace.com. Thanks to willymac for posting the link in our how to section. I cut off the stock connector and replaced it with an 880 one. I also cut off the 5202 bulb clip and used it on the new 880 HID bulbs to secure them in place. I added a standard size garden hose washer to the bulb to make it sit as close as possible to the outer part of the ring on the fog light housing(see pic). As long as I keep those clips I can change to any style 880 bulb without having to glue,silicone or secure in any other fashion and the newly spliced connector will hook right up. Crappy pics added:

 

 

5202 bulbs without clip

DSC01373.jpg

 

New HID'd in place secured with 5202 clip

DSC01376.jpg

 

Look from inside the truck on a not so dark street(fogs only)

DSC01383.jpg

 

FAQ:

 

Q: Do you suck at taking pics?

A: Yes

 

Q: Is the camera partly to blame?

A: Yes

 

Q: Any special tools needed?

A: The 5202 bulb clip was cut off by other folks using a dremel. Those are some badass little machines. Unfortunately I don't have one so

I used a small hand saw. I would have used a butter knife if I had to.

 

Q: Do you regret cutting the stock plug/connector?

A: Hell no, I wish I would have done it sooner and I'm keeping this truck for a long time. Plus It seems like there is enough light output to use the fogs as primary lights, its worth it.

 

Q: But OMG isn't that illegal?

A: Don't worry, I am not going to use just the fogs.

 

Q: You didn't mention anything about installing low beam HID's.

A: I only use the headlights or the parking lights/fogs at one time, never together. I like the look of just the fogs at dusk or dawn

 

Q: Are you going to add low beam HID's?

A: Yes, probably sooner than I thought I would.

 

Q: Why does your write up suck so much?

A: All the pics needed are already out there,do a search or google some shit. I had to sign up at dieselplace.com for the pictures.

If you really want to do something so bad don't be so damn lazy. Do some research. :thumbs:

Posted

Haha, love it. Good mod, good write up. On a side note, I see that you're in the DFW area. You may want to go outside, as your wheels are most likely being stolen as I type this.

Posted
Haha, love it. Good mod, good write up. On a side note, I see that you're in the DFW area. You may want to go outside, as your wheels are most likely being stolen as I type this.

 

:thumbs: Garage ftmfw!

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Any update if the new valve cover help with the oil consumption?  I have a 2014 GMC sierra and my truck is consuming a lot of oil so I’m wondering if replacing the driver side valve cover will stop some of the oil consumption. Thanks 
    • I bought belts and pulleys for my '20 L5P at Rock Auto a couple years ago. I have used them for many years, and almost always save significant money, especially when I buy maintenance stuff ahead of time.   They carry many OEM parts, which is all I use unless an aftermarket is shown to be same/superior, or if it is an insignificant part or unavailable OEM part anywhere else. RA is usually lower priced, often by a bunch, but parts are sometimes unavailable or out of stock, and I do shop around and sometimes find better prices at other sites.   Be aware that you pay shipping, and if you buy multiple items and they are coming from different warehouses, the shipping can kill the advantage. Planning ahead is best if possible.   If you have a transmission service in the near future, check out their OEM (AC Delco ULV) fluid, usually MUCH less than anywhere else.
    • New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
    • At peak temperature.  They get to cool down and warm up more, especially those with the external cooler.  I have three GMT900s and one of them has over 225K on its original transmission.  Fluid gets changed about every 36K miles, all of it.     It's not the bean counters, it was the government.  They had to meet CAFE standards and other government requirements.   To get around that, we tune them and modify them to our liking.
    • Our customers' safety isn't something we take lightly. To ensure you get the proper assistance for your truck's repairs, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...