Jump to content

Leveling Kit --- Which Brand Do I Buy?

drramer

Recommended Posts

drramer Enthusiast

drramer

Posted
Posted

I know I'm leaving myself wide open because everybody has their own opinion but which brand of leveling kit would you buy and which would you stay away from??? And before we get started, I understand Rough County has now gone to "plastic"?!?!.....so I'm not really interested in this idea.

 

 

I started out looking at ReadyLift. Then I found CCM and it was about ½ the price. Then I stumbled across Total Performance. I like the idea of a machined aluminum piece instead of welded steel, like the CCM product, and I like how they are anodized instead of the raw metal look like RL. I can buy a complete kit for $145 (front and rear). I'm sure a rear block kit is six one half dozen and another so my only real concern is the front.

 

Has anyone used one of their products before? And is the quality there?

drramer Enthusiast

drramer

Posted
  • Author
Posted
At the ReadyLift level of quality there is also SuspensionMaxx.

 

Thanks, I check them out as well. But just for my knowledge, is ReadyLift and/or Suspension Maxx on the upper or lower end of quality?

herkdriver007 Enthusiast

herkdriver007

Posted
Posted

RC's kit isnt so much of a "plastic" piece but more of a solid composite material. Its lightweight, and very sturdy. In fact, one member on here even milled it down a bit to get just 1.5" of lift.

 

I have the 2" RC up front and the 2" Zone blocks (replacing OEM) in the rear. A slight amount of rake...I like it.

 

Also, the RC is super easy to install...no need to remove the struts, or turn them, or cut bolts, etc....

drramer Enthusiast

drramer

Posted
  • Author
Posted
RC 2" :thumbs:

 

Thanks Steven! Is your RC spacers that plactic material and if so have you had any issues with it? I understand they just went to this recently, the previous ones were metal.

Z'06 Enthusiast

Z'06

Posted
Posted
At the ReadyLift level of quality there is also SuspensionMaxx.

 

Thanks, I check them out as well. But just for my knowledge, is ReadyLift and/or Suspension Maxx on the upper or lower end of quality?

 

 

Both are higher end.

  • 2 weeks later...
bigpimpin06 Enthusiast

bigpimpin06

Posted
Posted

I am also looking to level my 08 silverado ls and am planing on buying the CCM 2.5" leveling kit. If all i want is to level the truck do i need to buy the rear blocks as well or will i be fine with just the front kit? thanks for any help

Stevens03 Senior Enthusiast

Stevens03

Posted
Posted
RC 2" :cool:

 

Thanks Steven! Is your RC spacers that plactic material and if so have you had any issues with it? I understand they just went to this recently, the previous ones were metal.

 

 

 

No issues at all that I see... Been working fine so far. :D

 

Very easy to install too.

drramer Enthusiast

drramer

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I am also looking to level my 08 silverado ls and am planing on buying the CCM 2.5" leveling kit. If all i want is to level the truck do i need to buy the rear blocks as well or will i be fine with just the front kit? thanks for any help

 

 

First things first.......to answer your question, you should not need a rear block kit if you want it to sit level (without a load or trailer). For example, my truck is 2.5" lower inthe front than the back when I measured it before the lift. However I want the rear slightly higher than the front so I ordered rear blocks too.

 

As far as the brand goes, I decided to go with a Total Performance kit. I odered it offline and paid $165 (including shipping) for a 2.5" front spacer and a 1.5" rear block kit. He offeres a 1", 1.5" and 2" rear block kit. The front spacers are machined aluminum and meassure 1.75" thick. I assume I will get over 2.5" of lift since the spacers are thicker than orthers I have compared them to. I believe rear blocks are rear blocks.....only a few manufactures so they should all basically be the same.

 

I have not installed it yet (got it yesterday) but looks very basic. The only thing funny, which may be common with all kits, is that you switch the left and right spring/strut so everything lines back up right.

 

We shall see this weekend!!!!

bigpimpin06 Enthusiast

bigpimpin06

Posted
Posted
I am also looking to level my 08 silverado ls and am planing on buying the CCM 2.5" leveling kit. If all i want is to level the truck do i need to buy the rear blocks as well or will i be fine with just the front kit? thanks for any help

 

 

First things first.......to answer your question, you should not need a rear block kit if you want it to sit level (without a load or trailer). For example, my truck is 2.5" lower inthe front than the back when I measured it before the lift. However I want the rear slightly higher than the front so I ordered rear blocks too.

 

As far as the brand goes, I decided to go with a Total Performance kit. I odered it offline and paid $165 (including shipping) for a 2.5" front spacer and a 1.5" rear block kit. He offeres a 1", 1.5" and 2" rear block kit. The front spacers are machined aluminum and meassure 1.75" thick. I assume I will get over 2.5" of lift since the spacers are thicker than orthers I have compared them to. I believe rear blocks are rear blocks.....only a few manufactures so they should all basically be the same.

 

I have not installed it yet (got it yesterday) but looks very basic. The only thing funny, which may be common with all kits, is that you switch the left and right spring/strut so everything lines back up right.

 

We shall see this weekend!!!!

 

 

 

Ok thanks man!!

bigpimpin06 Enthusiast

bigpimpin06

Posted
Posted

I also wanted to raise my truck later on...would it be easier to just save the money and raise it now or can i raise it with the leveling kit in place? Also what kind of kits would you all recommend for a 4" to 6" lift? thanks

fishbones182 Enthusiast

fishbones182

Posted
Posted

I personally like the rough country lift and leveling kits. You get alot of bang for your buck with them. Ive talked to alot of folks here locally and they all recomend them as well. Now if your a serious mudder or rock crawler id look into something more expensive but if your just off road now and then and nothing too extreme the rc would be great. This is just my opinion of course and I know alot of folks around here dont seem to be too fond of RC for some reason.

drramer Enthusiast

drramer

Posted
  • Author
Posted
So what is the stock block 1.25"? So if I get a 2.5" front spacer and a 2" rear block I'll be lifting and rear about 3/4"? Also, anyone have pics of this

 

I believe you will find the factory rear block is 2". As my truck sits now (2.5" lower in the front) I should have somewhere from 1" to 1.5" more in the rear after I've got everything installed. My front spacers should set me level, but after I add the 1.5" blocks in the back itshould be that much higher than the front.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • SoCal Angler
      OEM Trailer Hitch Receiver - Impact tightened by shop

      By SoCal Angler · Posted

      After my recent rear end bumper damage, body shop has made the repairs and included a new OEM receiver hitch.  I started thinking about how it was tightened...to specs or by hand or ??.  I called the body shop and asked and they said it was tightened by an impact gun.  I said I wanted it tightened to OEM specs.  They said no problem, bring it to shop today and they will torque to specs, which they say is 74 ft/lbs.   A couple of questions,,,,   1.  Should new bolts have been used?  If so, how many are there (bill shows one and four (I assume different areas of receiver).   2.,  Since they torqued with impact gun and now are going to probably loosen and then torque to spces, will that damage/stretch the bolts?   3.  If old bolts were reused (truck has 9000 miles), is that a problem?   4.  Any other things iI may have missed with regard to receiver replacement?   NOTE:  Attached are the receiver hitch specs from my digital OEM service manual.  It shows to horizontal mounting bolts and four vertically mounted bolts.  Other sections of manual reference eight vertical bolts.   Thanks!
    • newdude
      Defective Brake Pad Wear Sensor?

      By newdude · Posted

      Is this supposed to be in English?  "close to 100 fake, new brake pads sign on the dash board"     Pull the wheels off.  Check the brake pad thickness.  Check the sensors out.  You could have good pads and the sensors aren't in to the worn out position, but have an electrical fault with the sensor or the plug wiring to the sensor.   
    • newdude
      Trans Cooler Thermostat Valve Body Seals - 2022 10L80

      By newdude · Posted

      Gas or diesel???????????   You did not indicate.  Your topic just says "2022 10L80".      
    • Donstar
      Navigating senior years.

      By Donstar · Posted

      Tomorrow I go in for my third joint replacement in jus a little over a year year!  I am not worried about the surgery but I am a little annoyed about going through the recovery process again!  I keep my frustrations to myself as I do appreciate that I am truly lucky.  Knee, hip, and shoulder replacements are routine, safe and improve mobility.  The next couple of days will be slow but every day following will see steady improvement in my mobility.  
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Practical Application ISO 4406   I think this oil cleanliness thing is going to boil down to ones personal resolve. The information is there but applying it I believe will test your commitment to the machine. Implementation would involve building or buying a prefilter or purchase of an "ISOCLEAN" oil. Then installing a single digit micron bypass system. A good deal of testing and about 99.9% of you are saying at that point....yea.....not my cuppa tea. So what can you do?    You already did the first step. Get educated and leave the bias at the door. Be aware of the its, cleanliness, importance.    Do your own work if you can. Keep the equipment clean. Not just your funnel but the engine bay. Use sealed containers. Think it through.    I believe you will find, as I did, that the tightest absolute full flow filters (Beta 200) will be around 20 micron. That will yield on average a Beta 75 of 10-15 micron. They are few in number by brand and price point. Loose filters are a dime a dozen and even the best brands have lines of loose filters. Some cleverly marketed as "Extended Service". Others will market flow over efficiency. But I think the take away once informed is that the extra cost of the best offered is a bargain. There are cheaper filters with good efficiency that are equal in performance to niche brands with big prices. Your Quick Lube is about a 40 micron unit. This is where your dealer is a plus. the AC-Delco filter is a good step up from those places. Even better if you specify the UPF line.    Be skeptical of marketing. Buying an oil that is made from GTL advertised as the cleanest base oil is using a truth to support a lie. While GTL's are made from debris free gas the processing equipment and post handling is just like any other oil. It also ignores the fact that PAO's and Esters are also gas in origin. Any private prescreening testing you would do, and some have done, would yield a result only good for the batch you tested. AMSOIL and Schaeffer's have built a reputation for paying attention to this detail.    Context. Cold starts account for at least 75%, or more, of an engines wear. But of the remaining 25% ish, over 80% is caused by particle count. Now where do we find high milage motors that use this type of information efficiently? OTR trucking!      Now, anyone want to build a prefilter or off line cleaning system anyway?   

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...