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Brianibew

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Everything posted by Brianibew

  1. Are you sure it’s not an alignment issue? To me, it kind of sounds like the toe of one or both wheels are not correct, causing it to “jump” when turning because both tires are not in sync.
  2. Sounds like a torque converter issue, unfortunately.
  3. Sounds like a torque converter issue due to the shudder at a low throttle input. You may want to stop by an auto parts store to read the other codes that have generated. Always an option to call GM and ask what how they want to handle the situation, as in keep driving or tow it.
  4. There is a heater in the def tank. It may have failed.
  5. Just my opinion, but look at the large sidewall of the tires on your Suburban and compare them to the tiny sidewall on your new Denali. The sidewall plays a huge role in soaking up those road surface inequalities. I don’t really understand why anyone would want over an 18” rim on a truck, and that is pushing the comfort limit at 18”…but I know, the larger wheels “look better”…for some reason.
  6. Not to be a smart a$$, but maybe try a new transmission shop. Sounds like this guy is over his head.
  7. Vapor lock is not an issue with modern fuel injected vehicles. With any luck, your no start issue will become more prevalent and you will able to recreate the issue for your dealer, or it will finally throw a code.
  8. I would guess if it’s not enough demand to issue a downshift, the shudder you’re feeling is the torque converter. Lots to read on GMs torque converters.
  9. Check the wiring harness that plugs into the PS rack itself. I bet it’s not fully seated.
  10. Put the OEM exhaust back on and bring it in.
  11. Take a video of it next time it won’t start. Call the dealer and request a tow. Show the dealer the video. Tell them you will pick it up when it is fixed. Contact GM and open up a case on the issue.
  12. I’ve had both 1/2 and 3/4 ton Chevys and I will say I prefer the C channel frame of the Tundra in terms of ride quality. It absorbs poor road conditions much better in my opinion. I agree about the outdated tech also, but on the other hand, it’s tried and true proven tech that has been incrementally improved upon over and over instead of changing the entire design every 3 years like most other manufacturers are doing and sacrificing long term reliability in the process.
  13. Can’t argue with you on that, lol....runs like a champ tho.
  14. Exactly. The public beta tests for them.
  15. I’m sure those deals are still available. The Chevy dealerships that I drive by regularly are still loaded with 2018 trucks on the lot.
  16. Sounds like either a wheel bearing issue or a CV joint. Probably the CV if it comes and goes with 4WD.
  17. Are you sure it’s related to the quality of the DEF? You need to get a code reader and plug into your truck and see if there are any other codes present. It may take calling a GM dealership and ordering some DEF directly from them and shipped to your location. If you can, siphon or drain out the DEF that is currently in the truck so you are not diluting down bad DEF with good DEF, if that’s indeed the problem.
  18. The dealer is not going to know if an independent shop RFB’d your tires or not. If you take it elsewhere and it doesn’t work out, take it back to the dealer and have them throw some more parts at it.
  19. It may be a PWM pulse width modulated control and not a solid 12V. I would use an actual multimeter and not a test lamp to check the voltage.
  20. Now reading you are referring to a diesel, I assume you have a 2500? I was talking about the half tons.
  21. So you are removing the connector at the seat heater and checking for voltage there? Like others have said on here, the seat heater elements are junk. My 2014 LTZ went in multiple times for multiple failures with the heating elements.
  22. Having the dealer compare your K2XX vibration to a T1XX makes no sense. They do not have the same frame. They are the next generation truck.
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