Pacfanweb

I'll probably pull the hood off, prep it and paint it at some point. Going to let the roof go for awhile though. Neither is that terrible yet, and I put Rejex on it so if it's UV rays, it's stopped for now. It it's the paint "just doing it" and UV isn't the cause, then what I did won't matter.

Wife's 16 Tahoe LTZ 5.3 (not flex) is skipping like a 3-legged dog. Has misfire code on #6, and "Injector open circuit" on #6. I'm assuming that if it's an open circuit, that's likely a bad injector? And the misfire obviously comes as a result.

Wife's 16 Tahoe is doing that. It's the dark green, almost black. Doing it on the hood, and the front of the roof. I tried sanding and buffing, but it didn't help much, it's down in there, deep.

It's usually the plastic "backbone" inside the harness that breaks, causing it not to seal. If you're lucky, it just came loose and you can click it back into place. If not, it needs a new one usually.

There's a TSB for a sloshing type noise when driving in the rain. You extend the front sunroof drains because where they exit beneath the cowl, there's enough pressure there to make them not drain easily and the water builds up jn the trough above your head and you hear it. Sloshing, gurgling, etc, type noises. I've done a few and it works. To prove out if this is your issue, when you are hearing the noise turn your A/C fan up and see if it goes away. That provides enough cabin pressure to force the water out. These big double glass sunroofs pass a LOT of water, and this is one of the side effects.

$200 for a water test? I need to raise my prices, lol

I don't remember which one I put in my Sierra a few years ago but I bought it at Autozone and it's now held up a LOT longer than the original one did. FWIW.

You probably have too much tongue weight, and you probably have gear in the truck that accentuates that. Look at the GVWR of the truck. Then weigh it, as it sits...like you're getting ready to go somewhere with the trailer, but just weigh the truck. It's the only way you can know. Don't go off any published figured, you have to weigh it as it's going to tow. Weigh with all the gear, and account for passenger weights as well, plus a full tank of gas as tow ratings are usually derived with 1/4 take or so, so 6lbs for every gallon over say, 1/2 a tank. So subtract how much the vehicle actually weighs with all your gear/people in it from the GVWR. Then realize that whatever the rated tongue weight also counts towards that GVWR number. See if you're not over, or close to it. I bet you are, and that's why it squats. You can't fully load the truck up AND also carry the max tongue weight. It'll be over if you do that. Or, you could have a suspension issue, sure...but unlikely it'd only show up when you tow.

Yes, if it's warm weather the Kent flows better. If it's winter and I need it to flow more, I just start my truck, set it under the vent and blast the heater for a few minutes, and that does the trick. That works for most all sealers, btw. I once saw a glass company on a lot that fabbed up a box that they stood sealer tubes in, and the ran lines from the engine coolant to it and literally had coolant pumping through the void outside the box, to keep their tubes of urethane warm so it flowed better. Worked, too. Flowed like butter.

It flows pretty well. The Kent Automotive Hi-Tech Clear that's in the GM bulletin also "self levels" a bit...it's not as runny as the 2 part seam sealer in this thread, but does a good job as well. It's true about the nuts not needing to be replaced. Only reason they recommend it is because they have a sealant on them and it's basically destroyed when you tighten them...but it's INSIDE the cab, which isn't the ideal place for sealer to begin with. You want to seal the outside if you have the choice, which you do when you remove the spoiler. I cut, form and use 3M Ribbon Sealer on the outside, around all the holes. It's butyl, and will last longer than you'll live. There are other products that will work as well, but I use that frequently and always have it, and it's fantastic for the job. The key here is to make sure all the surfaces the sealer is going to touch are clean, clean, clean. Especially that inside of the glass itself. If the sealer doesn't adhere to the glass and it pulls away, you can have the leak again.

Thought I'd check and see what everyone has seen. Wife's 2016 LTZ Tahoe with about 95k on it. Heard a grind in the left front yesterday when I was driving. About 5 minutes from home, eased in on home as I knew it was brakes. Been in the car repair business all my life, it's a no-brainer sound. L/F inside pad had JUST gone metal-to-metal at the top. The inside pad was worn down to about nothing. The outside pad was worn, but had some ways to go. Of course, when I get home and tell her what just happened, she says "Yeah, it's been squealing for a couple of weeks now" I figured it was time, so ordered fronts and rears from Amazon. Delco. Got the fronts today and put them on. I noticed the R/F was still not much more wear than last year when I put tires on it and figured she had about 30k left to go. Hmm. The caliper doesn't seem to be sticking. Wheel rolls like the other one does. No excess brake dust, no pull. I'm thinking it's just one of those cases where, as the everyone at my kids' high school likes to say "It just be like that sometimes". Maybe they got low and one of them wore out quicker? Just wondering what other's experiences have been with brake wear on these. I plan to keep an eye on it, but it seems fine now with the new pads. I do have a bit of a raised eyebrow over the seemingly premature wear of that inside pad, but who knows...far as I know, they were original but we didn't buy it until it had about 65k so can't say 100%

They're only considered not reusable because they come with sealer on the washers, and it is basically destroyed when you remove them. If you just put some sealer on them when you reinstall, you can reuse them just fine.

Far as I know, yes. I did try fixing one awhile back with what I said not to use...the Permatex Flowable Silicone. kept the spout as small as possible, and ran it over the top of the glass so it'd run down the back of it. Worked. Haven't seen that truck back in over a month now, so I'd say it fixed it. If it ever needs the glass replaced, the glass man will hate me, but that's "if". Next idea I'm thinking of trying is the liquid Flex Seal that comes in a quart "paint" can. Thinking of using a big syringe...maybe something like a turkey injector. I do believe that would work well. Flex Seal is pretty good stuff for certain thing.

Why is that strange?

Probably wet beneath the carpet. Once it gets under the carpet, it'll take months to dry unless the carpet is physically pulled up and dried. Most places that dry them will remove the seat (if necessary), prop up the carpet with a 4x4 or something, and put a fan on it overnight. Then hit it with Lysol when it's dry. If it's wet beneath the carpet and this isn't done, you can run your hand under it next month and it'll still be damp.

You might pick up some gas mileage, too. Running cold makes them run a bit richer. Old tuning trick to put a colder t-stat in to richen them up.

Not at the beach, no. Won't hurt, because you're going slow. It's terrible for them to run on pavement at speed with low pressure though. Lots more friction and it'll harm them eventually. Not to mention the extra strain on the truck with all that friction and the bad gas mileage it'll cause. So air down, then right back up when you get off the beach.

Yeah, you can add freon to a system that's just a little low, but once you break it open you have to have a vacuum pulled on it before adding anymore. You can't add to one that has atmospheric pressure inside already, you'll never get enough in there to work. Plus, the moisture is terrible for the system. Get it evacuated and then charged. Typically the books will tell you to pull a vacuum on it and hold it there for 30 minutes before charging. Don't know if that's the case with these in particular or not.. I did have the condenser on my 15 Sierra fail a couple years ago. Bought a new one from Autozone, replaced it in about an hour, took it down to one of my dealerships I do work for and had one of the guys evacuate/charge it. Been perfect ever since. Good luck!

That's where I live. Wonder who they use for glass work? Is is the Southpoint store or the one on 64?

Wow. Someone seriously dropped the ball there. So the glass company left it like that, or someone that works there?

Interesting. There's nothing in the TSB about sealing the ones that appear on the inside, not that I've ever heard of anyway. Personally, I wouldn't feel just filling cracks like that with sealer would be acceptable to anyone's truck that I worked on. If it was an older "just do something to help me get by" type of job, then sure. But on a new(er) truck still under warranty? Nah, I tell 'em to put a glass in it and I've never heard of GM denying one. The 19 I looked at this past week had probably 8 cracks like that one in your pic. I didn't even bother with any sealer...soon as I saw all those cracks, I was done.

Strange, I've never seen any issue with getting the glass replaced. I just looked at a 19 this past Tuesday and declined to seal it because of all the cracks. They got it replaced with no issues. They can't expect you to live with the cracks in the interior that are easily visible to the naked eye. Those don't get sealed at all.

Yep, they likely have loads of those glasses produced and sitting on the shelf. They're not going to NOT use them, so expect this to continue for awhile.

Yep, the difference is this: This job pays 1.9 hrs by the TSB. A tech who's never done one, he's going to struggle to beat that time, which is the name of the game. So your mileage may vary, with regards to quality. Also, while the TSB suggests the Kent sealer, it also says that's basically just a suggestion and there are other products.....which essentially means "use whatever you want". Now it so happens I always carry the Kent and IMO it's the best choice....but other places might well use whatever silicone they have on hand. However, if they call in an outside vendor like me, or a glass company: That's what we DO. So we're naturally going to do it faster and better than any tech does, because we do this all the time. I'm a trained tech...went to community college back in the day, trained on engines, transmissions, etc. I can rebuild your transmission for you....eventually. And it might work. But a tranny guy will run rings around me doing the same thing, and the quality will be much better. That's what he does. Same concept with this.

They are a franchise. YMMV. Just depends on whoever the local dude is. Some are good, some are hacks. About like anything else, really.