Sierra Dan

I prefer a more decreased pressure. Problem is I lost at least maybe 1-2 mpg's but the slightly softer feel was a good tradeoff. But the icing on the cake for me were the Bilstein 5100s. Last spring when I had my new Bridgestone tires installed, the shop had them aired up to 42lbs upon delivery. With the 5100s the truck still soaked up the major road imperfections, i.e. potholes , railroad tracks and no more skipping around in washboard sections. Speed bumps became a thing of the past as well and No more bobblehead action just pulling out of my driveway. To this day I like to stick with about 36-38 psi as it is about the best of both worlds. Better MPGs and a Better feel than 40-42 psi Before the Bilsteins any pothole large or small dealt me a bone jarring seat of the pants feel with the Ranchos. More so in the rear of the truck. Same 36-38psi

Lower tire pressure will NO DOUBT give you a little better ride quality no matter what size, brand, load range or ply rating your tires are. At the expense of some mpg loss of course.

Amen DeePa

Mike, Have you seen this thread?

Thanks typ0 Those who never change them out cannot and will not have the opinion those of us who have do. Does that make any sense? LOL

To avoid an argument Andy, let's just go with the problem being attributed to the tires and not the suspension

You know me all to well Andy! Because the internals can give way at Any time rendering them worn, blown, useless or whatever term is appropriate. Here is a picture of the Rancho shock at only 5300 miles. If it looks like this on the outside what is happening on the inside? And a short video of what happens to them when they fail. Nothing more than a pogo stick which is exactly what mine turned into.

The Ranchos will not last internally either.....

The Culprit is your Failing factory Rancho shocks that come on Z71 package trucks. They become Pogo Sticks after a certain period of time or mileage. Replace with a good aftermarket brand, ie Bilstein, Eibach, Pro Comp SS etc and enjoy the ride!

Sounds good. Thanks for the input

So someone give me a run down on recharging the system. Maybe it has already been explained in thorough but I must have missed it on one of these threads. And there only seem to be YouTube vids of the Condenser replacement only and not the vacuum/recharge procedure. Once the new condenser is in and everything buttoned back up do you hook up and pull vaccum 1st or do you have to add PAG oil into the system then pull vacuum then recharge? I know the big box auto parts stores have PAG oil. Is 46 sufficient? Vacuum, add in about 2-3 ounces PAG 46 oil with compressor running then top off with Freon? This analytical mind wants to know!

Well stated Bear! My personal opinion on warranty work or non-warranty defective parts for that matter: If Mary Barra can be paid 21.96 million dollars a year by GM, then GM can and should give out a few thousand free $100 A/C Condensers and Vacuum Pumps knowing they are sub-par components to begin with! Then both parties can be left with dignity

The amazing aspect of my Goodwill experience back in '08 was that it did not cost me a dime to replace the 4L60E in my avalanche. Perhaps some of the Goodwill discretion comes as how much of a loyal GM owner you are? My Dad retired from GM after nearly 35 years and by '08 I had owned 4 GM trucks dating back to '94. So in my case that could have had a bearing on the outcome. I doubt this happens in todays world where one receives a major repair free.

Based on the letter we must experience the hard pedal and have a code pop up on the dash before the pump will be replaced. And for many of us 14 owners that 6 years and 72K miles has come and gone. Personally it should be extended to 100K if you ask me. There is an 84 month 120K mileage seat belt strap extension after all. Unless we try to convince a dealer that this has happened and they replace it anyway. I am sure some dealers will others will insist a check engine light show up first. By then for some of us it could be too late. This whole topic is very reminiscent of the infamous ignition switch spring recall not long ago.

Tell her there are Trees to the East also Palm Trees down in Florida

Any new videos on the way Zane ?

Check here Jeff:

Well no super charger in my future so this mod is out for me! LOL

On a June Yellowstone trip 2 years ago, my family and I ran Into a mountain top snow storm in the Big Horn mountains to the East of Cody Wyoming. Caught us by surprise and had to wait for a state highway truck to plow the pass we were on. Couldn't navigate it in our Ford Edge rental! LOL Funny thing is by the time we descended into the flat lands near Cody, temp was 86 and somewhat humid out. Shocking for sure. Beautiful part of the country you live in diyer2

Is there a delete kit you can get online? If not can you post the individual components necessary? I am curious about this mod.

Condenser is notorious for failing on '14-'15 Silverado/Sierra. Also '15 Tahoe, Yukon, Suburban and Escalade.

It is suppose to be better. From what I can tell where the cooling fins meet the dryer on the right there is not any difference. Just the addition of tape. Maybe the welds are beefier. However, some aftermarket condensers are welded up the entire joint or have more attachment points.

It is a Niche market vehicle for sure. Much like the Hummer H2 truck that was a flop. Yes Jeep works for Jeep but I think they could have styled the rear end/bed a bit better. Just my .02 cents.

I'm sorry, but this Gladiator is as ugly as a Chrysler PT cruiser or Pontiac Aztek! I am sure it may be a great off-roader though FCA needs to start modernizing the look of the Jeep.

Good point. 2015 and up Tahoe, Yukon & Suburban all have the same condenser as K2 trucks I believe. Probably Escalade as well.