Transient

If you have the auxiliary switches

Iirc, Trail Boss doesn't have a front air dam. Just remove it.

Correct. Should be 4 blunt cut wires.

Ain't that truth! Already suffer from this with the led light bar mounted on top of the sport bar. Both are via GM Accessories. Also unable to enter most automated car washes.

You need the touch number pad for the exterior of the driver's door. It's available via GM Accessories, and requires the dealership to do a computer programming for the touch pad.

I've always used the sunroof fuse for this

I'm going to be the a-hole and say that I'm glad to read that because distracted drivers cause so many problems. I'm also aware you're likely to respond with some statement about how you're different. I really don't care. Now that's out of the way, here's a suggestion I would try. Upload everything you have on your USB onto your cell phone. Connect your cell phone to your truck via wifi. I'm able to browse all my music on my phone this way, while driving, and use the steering wheel controls to do it. I see everything in the DIC in my truck when doing this. You could use the touch screen buttons in the radio display, or the hard buttons under the radio display, too.

If you don't get it flashed you could end up with a CEL

GM Performance and Borla Touring are the same. S-Type is louder. I have GM Performance CAI and exhaust on my Trail Boss w/ 6.2. When I start her up she has a decent bark and rumble until she I either put my truck in D or it's up to temp. I've asked my neighbors if my truck is loud at startup. They said they don't even hear it.

I wouldn't be surprised if some things like the skid plates end up in the GM Performance Catalog as accessories everybody else can buy. With the ZR2 and AT4X coming, don't be surprised if there are more goodies coming. It happened to the ZR2 Colorado, and I'm not talking about just the Bison pieces.

That's what a LoveSac is for. Real thing. Look it up. Ideal location to use it is in the truck bed.

People always find failures they justify as a means for them to give up. Nobody ever finds praise to remain loyal. Seems like society focuses on the glass being half empty the majority of the time. As for Nissan's, I've found the slightest touch of the gas peddle moves the vehicle suddenly and quickly. I think it's a little too aggressive. That's just my opinion, though. Btw, given the topic of the thread, I read an article Google suggested that was about oil consumption. Abridged version: Don't own a vehicle from MY2010-2012. Seems like everybody has the issue. Acura, Audi, Honda, Volkswagen, etc all suffered from oil consumption. If they can find a way to fix the problem, so can GM. In another article I read, GM is focused on reducing Green House Gas emissions. Their goal next year is greater than 10% reduction. They already achieved over 5%. Killing off the 4.3 V6 and the 5.3 AFM is believed will help achieve this goal. They indicated such in the Q3 2021 investors call.

Your truck may have been built in Mexico, but the engine was likely built in New York.

Maybe this has to do with the computer chip shortage??? There is a way to get the OE garage door opener. It MIGHT require a new wire harness above the headliner. Oh, and I disagree that Ram is better. They have more problems with their electrical.

I've looked into BajaKits. You don't need fiberglass fenders unless you go to 37s and jump your truck. It'll be fine with 35s. They even state on their website you'd be fine with 37s if you don't jump your truck. 0ax Power's Jackal uses the BajaKits setup with King 3.0 shocks and Deaver leaf springs.

I'm biased, and recommend going with the GM Accessories kit that's just like the Trail Boss. It's more than just spacers. You get new shocks, front camera calibration, power steering calibration, longer CV axles, and it comes with a GM warranty so that the warranty you have on your truck isn't affected. Link is below. And, using Trail Boss towing numbers, and looking at the pic you provided of your trailer, this will reduce your towing capacity to a little over 9,000 lbs but that's still more than what your trailer will weigh fully loaded. You'll be good to go here. https://accessories.chevrolet.com/product/lift-suspension-upgrade-system-for-4wd-vehicles-84993582?model=Silverado 1500&modelId=491&bodyId=22&body=Crew Cab Pickup&wheelId=651&wheel=Short Box&trimId=4962&trim=RST&driveId=8&drive=4WD&engineId=2059&engine=5.3L V8 GAS&bodyNumDoors=5&year=2021&make=Chevrolet&categoryId=98004

This is the nice way to put it. Glad you wrote this post. I'm not as forgiving. I'm more blunt. Why would anybody buy the truck if it has a design from the factory you think will fail? Are Nissan, Toyota, Ford, and Ram even worse? I doubt it, therefore people are just complaining for the sake of complaining.

... like California emissions requirements. As of now they look for tunes and auto fail you if they find one.

You'll need to pull the trim between the radio screen and AC vents, and the trim panel immediately below where the trailer brake controller and USB ports, to expose screws holding the entire setup for the radio, AC, switch panel, etc. Remove those screws. Iirc, there's 6 or 8 around the whole setup. 2 on each side. Once the screws are out you'll need to pull the display out and start removing all the electrical plugs behind it. I believe there's over half a dozen plugs. It's actually simpler than typing this post. I recommend going to harbor freight and buying some plastic pry tools if you don't already have some. I believe the screws are torx. I can't remember what size, but it's really small.

Many online tire retailer websites will tell you what width wheels specific tires will fit on. You may want to start there. As for whether or not you'll need to add spacers, etc to make your tire fit worth your truck, only way to know is to do it and go from there. Some people have had success with 35×12.5s without modification. Iirc, that seems to be the norm for a specific Nitto tire. Others have had to trim, remove, zip tie something, or add spacers.

These trucks aren't capably of high speeds. Mine is limited to 98 mph. With my 6.2 I've hit that speed limiter a couple times and noticed no issues. Even raced down the interstate one night en route to the hospital because my daughter was vomitting and had to be kept awake due to sustaining a head injury. She's alright now, but getting her to the hospital was important. Truck was solid with no weird noise nor noticeable flexing or shaking of body panels.

When the tailgate would open the gap filler would rub against the edge of the truck bed, applying pressure on the tailgate's mounting points. The weaker side is the right side where the tailgate has a plastic bushing inside the hinge. The design is such that if you need to remove the tailgate, the right side is where you first remove the tailgate. The bushing would crack and the tailgate would come out of the hinge while lower or raising. I had to push the tailgate in every time I opened or closed it.

So, get the GM Accessories tie downs that install into the ovals. A pack of 4 is about $100, which is cheaper than the bed buddy. You have 3 ovals in the bulkhead to install them. I have the part number if you'd like it.

My vote is for vinyl wrap

I added this to my Trail Boss. I also have a Retrax bed cover. It doesn't interfere with the bed cover at all.