Jump to content

I Need Some Input On My Current Truck Appearance


Recommended Posts

Posted

ok so i bought my truck a few months back and i can't help but think it looks "oldman-ish" everytime i walk up to it.

i'm 24 years old and my truck looks like it belongs to an older person. in other words, TOO MUCH CHROME!!!

 

first of all, i'm really considering get rid of the nerf bars, the truck is so low so i don't really need them. (and no, i don't want to spend $200 on a leveling kit as i am spending ZERO money on this truck)

 

anyways, like i said, i was thinking of pulling off the nerf bars, but then i was thinking, maybe i should take off the chrome rocker panels along the sides. what do you guys think? has anyone done this? the truck has 280,000kms on it and i'm not sure how long those stupid chrome panels have been on it so the white underneath may be fairly unfaded in comparison to the unchromed parts because those have been exposed to sunlight for so long.

 

oh and the RIDICULOUS chrome fender trim 'rust hiders' are absolutely disgusting in my opinon. i have been trying to find larger, plastic fender flares at a wreckers but with no luck and ebay didn't help either. everything was at least $200, anyone have any suggestions for an alternative to the current state?

 

this is what it looks like now, after a long wash and polish

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y192/Grip72/truck.jpg

Posted

I would lose the chrome rocker panels and the fender guards and leave the nerf bars. The paint should be fine, clearcoated white paint fades very little, if at all.

Posted

If it was my truck.....

 

Loose the fender trim, chrome rocker panels, add escalade handles and upgrade to some nicer wheels.

Posted

i'm not spending money on it lol

i'm leaving in may to travel and plan on selling it then, i just want to change it's appearance for as cheap as possible.

 

i was going to lose the fender trim but there's rust those are hiding alot of it haha

 

what's the best way to take off the rocker panels? is there going to be a shitload of glue that i won't be able to get off without 6 hours of pealing/prying?

Posted

Lose the flares and get black flares, black handles, and if you're really feeling like a big spender...Get some black wagon wheels! :lol:

 

Chrome SUCKS big greasy green donkey gonads!

Posted

i'd actually prefer white flares to be honest. i have seen alot of trucks with the black flares and they look like company vehicles :uhoh: so i prefer white. hmm i'll keep an eye out for black handles as well. there were NO trucks even close to my year at the auto wreckers :lol:

Posted
If it was my truck.....

 

Loose the fender trim, chrome rocker panels, add escalade handles and upgrade to some nicer wheels.

 

 

+1 :lol:

Posted

Another vote for losing the chrome rockers and fender trim.

 

It'll look a ton better just removing that stuff.

Posted

haha so i went and bought a heat gun, fishline and some automotive goo gone

 

started with the little panel and realized it is way too much work to do this, so i bailed on the idea of removing the rocker panels..too much work for this lazy mofo

i guess the panels stay haha

Posted

I would remove the fender trim, mirror caps and nerf bars. Then put on some stock fender flares.

 

also paint the rear wheel wells black.

Posted

lol

those aren't mirror caps, it's more like a plastic coating, or tin foil on the back of the side mirrors lol.

and i want to get rid of the fender trim but i can't find any CHEAP stock ones

 

obviously people didnt' read the entire original post. CHEAP CHEAP. im' not spending money on the truck

fender flares are $200+

Posted

The cheapest way to deal with it would be to get some really dark shades to wear, when you're approaching the truck, and just leave the damn thing alone, until you sell it in May! :eek::chevy:

Posted
The cheapest way to deal with it would be to get some really dark shades to wear, when you're approaching the truck, and just leave the damn thing alone, until you sell it in May! :devil::jester:

 

haha that's an idea too

 

i gotta admit, it looks tolerable when it's clean..but still feels oldman-ish

Posted
haha that's an idea too

 

i gotta admit, it looks tolerable when it's clean..but still feels oldman-ish

 

Yeah, I can understand that.. I'm sure you'll keep that in mind for the "next" truck! :jester:

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Of course refrain from political debate but I myself have very dismal hope for what is all going on up here every where we turn so I nodded my head when I saw this joke.     
    • I'm looking at carpal tunnel surgery on my left hand and lumbar fusion. 
    • While waiting for parts I have been working on installing the AC compressor, new accumulator, and orifice tube. Also changed out the high side ball valve (original). The orifice tube that was in there wasn't too bad. Slightly dirty, a little bit of junk, but not blocked. Glad I changed it out.   The accumulator, which should have been a 5 minute job, may have just burned $50. Put some PAG in it, wrote the date and mileage on the side, fresh o-rings and gooey'd up the threads and rings with Nylog. Got everything connected and snugged and was going to vacuum down the system, and....   My manifold gauge won't fit on the port. It's not an R12 service port. It LOOKS like an R134 service port but the diameter is a hair too large. There's a sticker on the accumulator that says it's designed to be used with R12 and R134a systems only. So it's not R1234yf. Even if I reduced the diameter slightly with a file, the shoulder on the port is too large so the quick-connect valve won't lock on. I'm stumped. It's going back, and 50/50 on if they'll give me a refund.   Also, I did a fuel pressure test.... Key on, the gauge spikes to about 60psi and quickly bleeds off, like 2psi per second. The fuel isn't going into the plenum, no smell, starts fine, so I'm guessing there's a bad check valve in the pump and the fuel is just draining back into the tank. oh, hell. But, it shouldn't be a problem, pump primes just fine and the truck starts right up. It just means I can't really ever use fuel pressure to verify a leak at the injector or intake.
    • Got this yesterday out of nowhere. Truck is a 25',6.6 gasser with 8k miles.  Only semi anomaly is that the truck had been sitting, uncranked for 6 days. Elec Stability Control showed immediately upon cranking, not while driving. No drivability issues, just the message. Battery didn't seem to be weak when cranking over.  I drove it, killed it, let it sit a few hrs with no avail.  Truck is 100% stock. No damage. 
    • This can be done.  It is not cheap and requires an instrument cluster swap with custom programming, new steering wheel with the controls on it, and a special jumper harness.   The cluster upgrade - 12.3” Digital Cluster Upgrade – 2022.5–2026 Silverado / Sierra (T1 Refresh Pickup) - WAMS   The wheel upgrade - Steering Wheel Upgrade Kit – 2022.5–2026 Silverado / Sierra (T1 Refresh Pickup) - WAMS   The column harness upgrade - 2019 - 2026 Silverado / Sierra: Steering Wheel LIN Bus Harness - Harness Dr. - DIY Done Right     The problem with doing all of this?  You pretty much can't have any programming done to your truck that involves the cluster ever again.  The dealer won't be able to program the cluster as GM's system will only pull data for the cluster the truck came with.  So it would be advised also to turn off over the air updates.   TLDR;  Should have bought an LT double cab?  You'd have a power seat, the wheel controls, the cluster, all things that you've been seeking in your various posts so far about your new WT regular cab.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...