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A New Twist On Shackle Installs


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Posted

I have a tip for those like me who decide to level using 2" rear shackles and who want to use airbags for towing. The shacke install goes easier if you install your airbags first. Once they are in, you don't need to put your truck on jack stands or play with a jack under the differential to swap out the shackles. Here's how I just did mine:

1) removed the hitch per Zembonez' suggestion.

2) removed the 4 rear most bolts holding the bed down and loosened the next two, leaving the front 2 tight (also per Zembonez).

3) I did a bench press under the rear of the bed while my son slipped 1" blocks in to hold the rear of the bed up off the frame. Note: steps 2&3 are in lieu of bending a pinch weld seam under the bed as the shackle manufacturer instructs. I like the idea of leaving as much in factory condition as I can so I went with Zembonez' instuction.

4) Loosen the lower shock bolts.

5) Inflate each air bag to 65 or 70 lbs. This takes enough weight off of the springs to allow you to swap out the shackles. There is no jacking, and your truck remains safely on the ground the whole time. Only snug the bolts on the new shackles at this time.

6) Lower the truck back down to where you will normally run your airbags, I use 5 psi, and then torque your shackle bolts (70 lb ft) and lower shock bolts (85 lb ft).

Posted

So far it's just what I wanted, a level truck with no noises or bottoming. It easier to climb into the bed too. I went back and forth on whether to lower the rear or raise the front. I finally went this way because of the ball joint problems some are having with front end spacers and I also didn't want to suffer fuel economy by raisimg the front and sending more air under the truck. I'll know more as I drive longer distances.

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