2000 Silverado "new" E-brake Brake Shoe Clips?

2000ChevySilveradoZ-71 · October 31, 2009

I'm pretty sure I've seen this topic covered on this forum but I still don't know what I'm looking for. I have a 2000 Silverado. The rear brakes were making a noise. Turns out the E-brake shoe on the LR had "dropped" down and was rubbing the Drum In Hat (DIH) rotor. The RR one looked perfect. Probably due to the fact the RR e-brake shoe appears to be right side up and LR e-brake shoe appears to be upside down. I guess GM was trying to save some money by casting only one hub flange part. Anyway, I ordered new EBC slotted rotors, EBC Green Stuff pads, and Wagner e-brake replacement shoes. (as a side note, the reason I bought EBC brake rotors was I found out there our only two brake rotor foundries left in the world. One in China and one in the UK. EBC rotors come from the UK foundry and ALL other rotors come from China. I mean ALL as in, Wagner, Raybestos, SSBC, Brembo, etc.) The Wagner e-brake shoes came with two shoes and FOUR clips. Two of the clips looked like the clips that were on my truck when I took them off. The other two clips look like a revised clip because they king of have "wings" on them to provide more surface are for the clip to clamp onto the inner part of the e-brake shoe. I've heard on this forum there has been a revised clip so I assumed the "wing" clips were the newest and best. So, I put all the stuff back together using the revised wing clip. Everything seemed fine. But after about 100 miles I noticed the unmistakable smell of HOT brakes coming from the LR. The LR rotor surface was normally hot but the hat was smoking hot. The RR rotor surface was normally hot but the hat was relativly cool. So I'm afraid the LR e-brake shoe has dropped down and is rubbing on the DIH like the OE stuff was originally. At this point, I'm planning on take off the e-brake shoes and just doing without them. I really wanted them to work because it would be nice at the boat ramp. But I'm not gonna destroy my new EBC slotted rotors because of a piece of crap GM 45 cent clip.

Does anyone have a picture, or a diagram, or a link to what the REAL new revised GM clip is supposed to be?

CapitalTruck · November 1, 2009

I was under the impression that the revised clip was the one that DIDN'T have wings. That's the one I used when I installed new shoes on my 2004. The reason I thought this was the case was because I had the winged clips on my truck originally and it was covered by the TSB which is about a revised clip. Using that "non-winged" clip worked good for me. Make sure you don't have the shoes cranked out too far. I made sure I could comfortably take the rotor on and off to ensure that it wasn't touching when not applied. I'm pretty sure my shoes had dropped using that old winged clip.

2000ChevySilveradoZ-71 · November 2, 2009

Hmm, well, the wing clips DEFINATELY have more surface area to push down the e-brake shoes more than the clips that I found on my truck when the other set failed. I don't know what's the newest or best clip. I'm surprised that I can't seem to find a picture or diagram either on this forum or on the web of the newest clip. Thanks for your information. This is the second vehicle I have owned with rear disk brakes. So far, they have both given me headaches.

jtupper · November 2, 2009

That is by far the biggest POS emergency brake design I have ever seen. Mine stopped working soon after I bought my truck. Evidently, the POS design allowed the ebrake pads rub against the inside of the drum until it got down to the metal. When it came time to have my vehicle inspected, I had to fix it in order to pass. In order to fix it, I had to replace the rotors.

Unfortunately, I was unaware of the issues known with this crappy design then. By the time I was up for inspection the next year, the same thing happened again. I said screw it and I wasn't replacing rotors thet were only a year old again. Luckily, I've been going to the same place to get my vehicles inspected for years and they never give me any grief about my ebrake not working.

CapitalTruck · November 3, 2009

My thinking was that the more surface area = less pressure to hold the thing up.

CapitalTruck · November 3, 2009

My thinking was that the more surface area = less pressure to hold the thing up.

2000ChevySilveradoZ-71 · November 3, 2009

Here's a stock picture of what was in my Wagner box of replacment parking brake shoes. See how there are two sets of clips? The top set have "wings" on them. The bottom set do not. My truck had the wingless clips on it. And the LR shoe had dropped down and ruined the DIH rotor. When I put my new Wagner parking brake shoes on I used the winged clips. But I still don't know if that's the latest, greatest design. I've read where there is a GM TSB on this whole issue but I can't find what clips are associated with the latest TSB.

Brake_Clips.bmp

CapitalTruck · November 3, 2009

Changed the link...

2000ChevySilveradoZ-71 · November 5, 2009

Here's the latest. I drove my truck again the other day. The LR rotor was hotter than the RR. Couldn't really tell if the LR hat was hotter than the LR disc slab though. I took the LR wheel, caliper, caliper mount, and rotor off. The new parking brake shoe had NOT fallen down. It didn't appear to be rubbing. Everything appeared to be fine. There were some wear marks on the shoe friction material that's probably just due to using the p-brake several times. So I threw it all back together. I stopped by a GM dealer today. I asked the parts guy about any TSB concerning this issue. He gave me the "deer in the headlights" look. He acted like I was speaking Morlock to him. So then I asked him if I could see a replacement GM parking brake shoe (NIB) for my truck. He brought out a new box and it had the wing type clips in it. So I would assume the winged clips are the latest and greatest clips from GM. The winged clips are the ones I put on that were in the new Wagner brand p-brake shoes I bought. I drove my truck again tonight. When I checked the LR rotor was hotter than the RR but not by much. It seems like the more I drive it the more normal it gets. Now I'm thinking maybe the "hotness" is just coming from the new thick pads slightly rubbing on the new thick rotor. Maybe after another 100 miles or so it will be fine. My next step is to compare the LR rotor slab temperature to the LR hat temperature using an infrared temperature gun. Then compare those numbers with the RR temps.