Truck Wont Start

walktastic · December 15, 2009

so yesterday i was cruising on the freeway and my truck immediately died on me. after getting it towed, i found the fuel system to be good but it still wouldnt start. but when i tried the secondary spark trick it fired right up. later that day the truck died on me again. the battery, check gauges lights come on when i try to start it. tried jumping the battery and nothing. its turning over but the cab lights dim.anyone know what it could be? i heard there was some problem with teh security system on teh truck preventing it from starting up but im not sure.

rodram · December 15, 2009

... if it was just the security system then there would be no response to you turning the key to start... it would not crank, the lights would not dim or anything.... just no response

... if the cab lights go dim then I suspect it is turning over very slowly and you are experiencing some other electrical problem...

... MAYBE you have a problem with the key cylinder ... which would be related to the security issue

.. what is the "secondary spark trick...????"

walktastic · December 15, 2009

its when you put a metal object in the park plug cable and hold it next to metal. or in my case the header. im not sure what the official name for it is its what my buddy called it

rodram · December 15, 2009

... I would still get the key cylinder in the steering column checked... (that's where my money goes right now)... and if that is OK then anything else in that ignition starting circuits with electrical contacts that affect both the on-off status and the circuit to the starter solenoid.

... if that is all working OK, then maybe something in your PCM (Powertrain Control Module) is fried.

dwhults · December 15, 2009

Check your battery connections. Make sure they aren't loose or corroded. I had loose connections that cause me some problems as well.

walktastic · December 16, 2009

Thanks for the replies. So I cleaned the terminals wires and it still didn't start. Checked voltage on battery and it was 11.5 which seems low. However, I

followed the chilton manual to test the alternator by disconnecting the positive and using a test light on it and supposedly I have a short somewhere. Is there any common areas I should look? And how do I make sure the key cylinder is working?

KENNHON · December 16, 2009

Thanks for the replies. So I cleaned the terminals wires and it still didn't start. Checked voltage on battery and it was 11.5 which seems low. However, I
followed the chilton manual to test the alternator by disconnecting the positive and using a test light on it and supposedly I have a short somewhere. Is there any common areas I should look? And how do I make sure the key cylinder is working?

First: how many miles? which engine? did you check ALL fuses[under hood as well as in cab?]. Clean connection on Starter IF you do voltage draw test while cranking[if big draw[starter]; if no draw[or small draw] it's bad connection. What SEEMS like my problem, is the fact it worked once,or twice after first shut-off. Exactly like my problem!

So, here is what my problem was: [cranked like crazy-wouldn't start]. Tests: IF you have timing light, hook it up to spark plug wire ,or--- If you don't have timing light, get old good spark plug and take off wire from plug in engine; ground the spare plug where you, or friend, can see it, and turn over engine; there SHOULD be BRIGHT blue-white spark!]. If no spark, put timing light, or connect plug to coil wire[removed from distributor side].. Ck for spark... IF there is[as in my case] there can only be one cause... Bad rotor/cap... OR,the rotor is NOT turning.

In my case, i THOUGHT it was a sheared shaft--it was NOT... The distributor gear was STRIPPED big time!!!!![you haveta remove the distr. to find out. THIS is a BIG PAIN, if you have a Vortec 454['96-2000]. Betcha your '98 S/B[5.7L] MIGHT have same problem [the distributors are almost the same! These are CHEAP pieces of garbage!!!!!!!! would you believe 'glorified' plastic!!!!!!!!!!! Also,if this is your case like mine.... because the engine has turned and rotor hasn't, you will be in the same predicament I am!!! There are no timing marks to determine TDC,etc!!!!!!!!!!

But, if you don't get any spark at coil wire---GOOD Luck!!! that could be anything from crank position sensor, onward!! You'll haveta get an electrical diagram of engine, and go from there

walktastic · December 16, 2009

I have 190k and its the 5.7 and I did try what you said. The first time it sparked and started.plus I can hear it sparking But later it died again. How do I check the wires and cap with a meter

Stex · December 16, 2009

Check and clean all grounds...

KENNHON · December 16, 2009

I have 190k and its the 5.7 and I did try what you said. The first time it sparked and started.plus I can hear it sparking But later it died again. How do I check the wires and cap with a meter

Boy, i sure hope you don't have same problem i had! BUT, before we go any further, at 10:00PM-Dec. 14---- another chap posted about his '99 5.7 Yukon not starting. One of the REAL mechanics replied about another thing i knew NOTHING about, and could very well be your problem[you are in cold,wet weather-i'm in florida]. He says check the cap and rotor[natch, BUT then he says to check the body of distributor with rotor removed. There are 2 screens that can get plugged causing huge ionization! I would suggestreading what that mechanic from Northern Illinois says[there are only 3 posts, so it won't be hard tofind---it's the " '99 Yukon 5.7 won't start" 10:00PM, Dec. 14

With 190,000 miles... i'd check with distributor cap off & using friend to crank engine--- watch to see if rotor revolves.... mine did sometimes, other times, it did not.... and, as a said, it was my gear that was stripped[and i have 130,000 miles on a '96 454-you have 190k[with almost the same distributor]. I have feeling this is your problem[sorry]

but after that exercise, you can check ohm resistance of spark plug wires with digital multi-meter. i THINK there should be around 100,000-BUT, i'll bet that wouldn't be the culprit!!!!

Funny, my post about my problem has DISAPPEARED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! it was,"This is one for the record books"... on 13th.....it's GONE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

txab · December 16, 2009

Funny, my post about my problem has DISAPPEARED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! it was,"This is one for the record books"... on 13th.....it's GONE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Yes there is a conspiracy against you.........

Afraid not......

Apparently you have no clue as to finding threads....... and you have a spelling or memory problem as well. Your thread title is "One For Herecord Books, B/B distributor"

Disappearing thread? I think not!

Spurshot · December 16, 2009

When was the last time you changed the fuel filter? Just checkin.

walktastic · December 16, 2009

I put a new filter cap and rotor on. The rotor can wiggle back and forth and I'm not sure if its supposed to do that. Fuel pump is sending fuel but not sure what pressure its at. I had it towed to the dealer now apparently home depot doesn't like me working on my truck in their parking lot.

txab · December 16, 2009

I put a new filter cap and rotor on. The rotor can wiggle back and forth and I'm not sure if its supposed to do that. Fuel pump is sending fuel but not sure what pressure its at. I had it towed to the dealer now apparently home depot doesn't like me working on my truck in their parking lot.

Sounds like you may have not got it installed correctly.