Jump to content

25,000 Mile Service

Mazer18

Recommended Posts

Mazer18 Enthusiast

Mazer18

Posted
Posted

I'm at approximately 25,00 miles right now in my 07 Silverado. I think I'm actually at 23K-24K but it's close enough. Is there anything special that is to be serviced or looked at for the 25,000 mile servicing? Transfer case fluid, transmission fluid, etc.?

 

Had tires rotated last time so I'm good there. I know I need the regular oil change and lube. I also need to get the TSB for the sensor under the driver's seat that is suppossedly rusting out taken care of.

 

Would the service shop be able to check the ball joints while they're at it? I've noticed lately a bit of tight steering. Might just be the abnormal cold/snow we're having right now though. I am running the RC level kit though so I'd rather be safe than sorry if the service shop can check the ball joints.

txab Senior Enthusiast

txab

Posted
Posted

GM doesn't really have any recommendations on anything until the 50k mark, outside of the regular oil changes. It is all dependent on how you drive/use the vehicle

 

 

Here are the things they suggest for routine maintenance, such as oil change etc...

 

Scheduled Maintenance

 

Change engine oil and filter. See Engine Oil on page 5-13. Reset oil life system.

See Engine Oil Life System on page 5-16. An Emission Control Service.

Lubricate chassis components. See footnote #.

Visually check for any leaks or damage. See footnote (j).

Inspect engine air cleaner filter or change indicator (if equipped). If necessary,

replace filter. See Engine Air Cleaner/Filter on page 5-17. See footnote (k).

Rotate tires and check inflation pressures and wear. See Tire Inspection and

Rotation on page 5-72 and “Tire Wear Inspection” in At Least Once a Month

on page 6-10.

Inspect brake system. See footnote (a).

Check engine coolant and windshield washer fluid levels and add fluid

as needed.

Perform any needed additional services. See Additional Required Services

on page 6-6.

Inspect suspension and steering components. See footnote (b).

Inspect engine cooling system. See footnote ©.

Inspect wiper blades. See footnote (d).

Inspect restraint system components. See footnote (e).

Lubricate body components. See footnote (f).

Check transfer case fluid level and add fluid as needed.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,842
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    CaptainDad
    Newest Member
    CaptainDad
    Joined

  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 511 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • asilverblazer
      Slate Electric Truck

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • newdude
      Help purchasing a touch screen digitizer

      By newdude · Posted

      I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • asilverblazer
      give me some tips to make my truck look better

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • fondupot
      Exhaust heat while towing!

      By fondupot · Posted

      You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...