Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
v8 swap? ls1!!!

 

 

yes i'm going to pick up a 5.3 from a police tahoe in july

 

 

Nice.... keep us posted dude... LS1 are perfect transplant motors....

 

Jbo

Posted
well this was before the leveling kit, gonna be interesting to see how high the front sits now with the kit installed

 

I pulled my dads 16x7 enclosed a couple weeks ago and my truck looked soooo sagged in the rear. I have a leveling kit but was wondering if this is normal since the factory rake isn't there. I was shocked how much it sagged but maybe it was exaggerated because of the level... thoughts?

Posted
well this was before the leveling kit, gonna be interesting to see how high the front sits now with the kit installed

 

I pulled my dads 16x7 enclosed a couple weeks ago and my truck looked soooo sagged in the rear. I have a leveling kit but was wondering if this is normal since the factory rake isn't there. I was shocked how much it sagged but maybe it was exaggerated because of the level... thoughts?

 

 

 

Yea I'm leveled out too and it doesn't take much weight to sag the truck out. I have a 12' trailer that I put 3 atv's on and it sags out so I bought a set of firestone airbags and it cured that problem!

Posted
well this was before the leveling kit, gonna be interesting to see how high the front sits now with the kit installed

 

I pulled my dads 16x7 enclosed a couple weeks ago and my truck looked soooo sagged in the rear. I have a leveling kit but was wondering if this is normal since the factory rake isn't there. I was shocked how much it sagged but maybe it was exaggerated because of the level... thoughts?

 

 

 

i put in the ready lift leveling kit in and the rear blocks so i wouldn't have the sag problem. i hate seeing trucks ass low

Posted
well this was before the leveling kit, gonna be interesting to see how high the front sits now with the kit installed

 

I pulled my dads 16x7 enclosed a couple weeks ago and my truck looked soooo sagged in the rear. I have a leveling kit but was wondering if this is normal since the factory rake isn't there. I was shocked how much it sagged but maybe it was exaggerated because of the level... thoughts?

 

 

 

i put in the ready lift leveling kit in and the rear blocks so i wouldn't have the sag problem. i hate seeing trucks ass low

 

 

So if you level the truck so it sits level and add rear blocks doesn't that raise the rear back up totally defeating the purpose of the level kit in the first place?

Posted
well this was before the leveling kit, gonna be interesting to see how high the front sits now with the kit installed

 

I pulled my dads 16x7 enclosed a couple weeks ago and my truck looked soooo sagged in the rear. I have a leveling kit but was wondering if this is normal since the factory rake isn't there. I was shocked how much it sagged but maybe it was exaggerated because of the level... thoughts?

 

 

 

i put in the ready lift leveling kit in and the rear blocks so i wouldn't have the sag problem. i hate seeing trucks ass low

 

 

So if you level the truck so it sits level and add rear blocks doesn't that raise the rear back up totally defeating the purpose of the level kit in the first place?

 

 

didnt do it to make it level. i did it so i could put 33's in and still be able tow without my headlights pointing at the sky

  • Like 1
Posted

this is it without a load

243.jpg

with a load of wood from a tree i cut down in the front yard (full box) and it has e range tires on it

imagine how bad it would be without the blocks

396.jpg

Posted
well this was before the leveling kit, gonna be interesting to see how high the front sits now with the kit installed

 

I pulled my dads 16x7 enclosed a couple weeks ago and my truck looked soooo sagged in the rear. I have a leveling kit but was wondering if this is normal since the factory rake isn't there. I was shocked how much it sagged but maybe it was exaggerated because of the level... thoughts?

 

 

 

Yea I'm leveled out too and it doesn't take much weight to sag the truck out. I have a 12' trailer that I put 3 atv's on and it sags out so I bought a set of firestone airbags and it cured that problem!

 

+1 on the air bags. The best investment in my truck I have made.

  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

I havent posted in a while, but I like this thread :lol:

 

26' TT, The Honda and Power wheels ride in the bed

 

IMG00171-20100522-1945.jpg

 

just the bike on a day trip...

photo.jpg

Edited by elmo

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I will admit I haven't experimented much with pressure drops beyond the numbers I put in and part of that is that the numbers I used are fairly low and then found out it would trigger regardless at that 35 psi. Having said that I had tried before had changed the placard pressures and being that I have a 1 ton set to 80 on the placard for the rear I believe it triggered close to 60, the front I don't recall now for sure but thought maybe it could get close to 45 from that factory 60 placard pressure. So I never did figure out if it was a number of psi from placard pressure to the alarm or a percentage of the total placard number as some figured it was like a 25% drop from placard pressure would trigger it. So as to try and answer your question, I believe I set the placard pressure on the front to 47 or so and while I run the front tires at 40, they have dipped below that some if its colder and I haven't put "winter air" in yet and never once have had the front alarm go off. I would say that the answer your looking for is no, that if you set your placard pressure to 45, you have a certain amount of room to drop below that pressure before the alarm will go off.    The pressures you decide to run in your truck, that ends up being what makes sense to you based on what your carrying in your truck or if towing, then have to bump them back up to something that will carry the load in the rear and the fronts typically left at the same pressure. It all comes down to that chart I put the link to and using an accurate roadside scale to be your guide, both unloaded and then loaded to know your minimum safe pressures.    I just wish GM would allow a person to change the readings for the tire pressures to the English system of pounds as I have to look at that goofy metric reading that will never ever jive in my head and will go over and change it just to figure out what they are if need be and then change it back. 
    • That part I understand, that the dealer can do it. But I'm not understanding why updates that were available to the truck since it left the factory, or the dealership originally, would not still be available to it without dealer intervention.   I'm thinking along the lines of recalls. They stay available until they are completed, regardless of whether they are in warranty or not, or in the hands of the original owner or not. Why not updates as well, especially since some of those can be safety related also?
    • That's good to know, but I don't think I'll even be running them under 45 in the rear  unless it's on the sand or something but will only be for a short distance anyways!    I didn't read all the instructions in the booklet yet, but do you know let's say I set the rear psi on the placard to 45, will the warning light come on soon as it drops under 45 or is there a percentage it has to drop from the set value before the warning light is triggered?
    • That's bad.  Like, its probably destroying the stub axle the CV slides into.   Do you have a proper lift installed with differential lowering brackets?  Did you install AT4/Trail Boss factory CV axles?  
    • Hot? New Jersey? Today? I was working on my old 2000 Silverado 1500 today. Believe me, it was boiling hot today. As it has been.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...