Jump to content

Windshield Washer Bucket Removal


Rog Man

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a 2006 GMC 2500HD 4x4.

Before I start,

Can someone tell me if the washer reservoir bucket comes out from the top or bottom?

Does someone have a description of the removal process and any snags that may be encountered?

Thanx in advance

Posted
I have a 2006 GMC 2500HD 4x4.

Before I start,

Can someone tell me if the washer reservoir bucket comes out from the top or bottom?

Does someone have a description of the removal process and any snags that may be encountered?

Thanx in advance

Pretty sure it comes out from the bottom. You have to remove the plastic wheel well liner, and it should unbolt around there and just drop down....but I'm not 100% on that. Sorry though...I don't have a procedure.

Posted

Well I had to do it regardless so I found out it did indeed drop out the bottom.

GM sure didn't want that battery tray accidently comin out!!!

Lord Tunderin !!!

Well the bucket was ok it turned out to be the piece of hard washer hose from the tank had busted

when I forgot about having summer juice in there and winter came.

Guess I was lucky it wasn't the bucket or the motor pump?

I McGuyvered it with some 5 min epoxy and tape until i can get a replacement section of hard hose.

What was wrong with the bucket up on the fender like it was for 50 years eh?

Oh well it works now.

Posted
Well I had to do it regardless so I found out it did indeed drop out the bottom.

GM sure didn't want that battery tray accidently comin out!!!

Lord Tunderin !!!

Well the bucket was ok it turned out to be the piece of hard washer hose from the tank had busted

when I forgot about having summer juice in there and winter came.

Guess I was lucky it wasn't the bucket or the motor pump?

I McGuyvered it with some 5 min epoxy and tape until i can get a replacement section of hard hose.

What was wrong with the bucket up on the fender like it was for 50 years eh?

Oh well it works now.

You a Newfie by chance....if not you picked that up from one. :):rollin::lol:

 

I'm a Newfie BTW.

 

Glad you got it figured out.

Posted

I worked with a couple of newfies when I was up north.

Good ladds but they get homesick quick LOL.

I've wanted too go see the rock ever since!!!

Lord Tunderin has stuck with me over the years i guess.

Myself I am english/german decent But I consider myself Canadian, more specifically Albertan.

I have been planning an east coast holiday for some time.

The rock, Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, PEI.

Some day I hope !!!!

Posted
I worked with a couple of newfies when I was up north.

Good ladds but they get homesick quick LOL.

I've wanted too go see the rock ever since!!!

Lord Tunderin has stuck with me over the years i guess.

Myself I am english/german decent But I consider myself Canadian, more specifically Albertan.

I have been planning an east coast holiday for some time.

The rock, Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, PEI.

Some day I hope !!!!

Yeah the east coast is a very nice place....but I'm one of those Newfies that doesn't get home sick...so a nice place to visit...and a nice place to be from.

Posted

I go home every year..... :) My parents and most of my brothers/sisters are still there.

But I don't get home-sick. ;)

Posted
I go home every year..... :banghead: My parents and most of my brothers/sisters are still there.

But I don't get home-sick. ;)

Yeah...I have no one at home....my mom has diabetes and a back injury from work...so I moved her up here with me, and I have never spoken to my old man....no brothers or sisters....so really no reason to go back there.

 

The Wife has family there though...so she goes back every so often with our son to see his "nan and pop".

Posted
I have a 2006 GMC 2500HD 4x4.

Before I start,

Can someone tell me if the washer reservoir bucket comes out from the top or bottom?

Does someone have a description of the removal process and any snags that may be encountered?

Thanx in advance

 

 

If you haven't done it already then:

 

 

  1. Remove the battery and battery tray from the vehicle.

     

  2. Remove the inner wheel housing from the vehicle.

     

  3. Disconnect the electrical connector from the washer pump.

     

  4. Disconnect the electrical connector from the washer solvent level sensor.

     

  5. Disconnect the washer hose from the washer pump.

     

  6. Remove the upper bolt from the washer solvent container

     

  7. Remove the lower bolts from the washer solvent container.

     

  8. Remove the washer solvent container from the vehicle.

     

 

Posted
I have a 2006 GMC 2500HD 4x4.

Before I start,

Can someone tell me if the washer reservoir bucket comes out from the top or bottom?

Does someone have a description of the removal process and any snags that may be encountered?

Thanx in advance

 

 

If you haven't done it already then:

 

 

  1. Remove the battery and battery tray from the vehicle.

     

  2. Remove the inner wheel housing from the vehicle.

     

  3. Disconnect the electrical connector from the washer pump.

     

  4. Disconnect the electrical connector from the washer solvent level sensor.

     

  5. Disconnect the washer hose from the washer pump.

     

  6. Remove the upper bolt from the washer solvent container

     

  7. Remove the lower bolts from the washer solvent container.

     

  8. Remove the washer solvent container from the vehicle.

     

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Yup, I managed to get it done,

Not one of GM's brighter ideas as far as mounting a water tank in my opinion but i gotter done.

Turned out to be a ruptered hard line and not the washer bucket

I wonder when GM stopped using rubber hose and started using this hard plastic line for window washers?

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I bought belts and pulleys for my '20 L5P at Rock Auto a couple years ago. I have used them for many years, and almost always save significant money, especially when I buy maintenance stuff ahead of time.   They carry many OEM parts, which is all I use unless an aftermarket is shown to be same/superior, or if it is an insignificant part or unavailable OEM part anywhere else. RA is usually lower priced, often by a bunch, but parts are sometimes unavailable or out of stock, and I do shop around and sometimes find better prices at other sites.   Be aware that you pay shipping, and if you buy multiple items and they are coming from different warehouses, the shipping can kill the advantage. Planning ahead is best if possible.   If you have a transmission service in the near future, check out their OEM (AC Delco ULV) fluid, usually MUCH less than anywhere else.
    • New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
    • At peak temperature.  They get to cool down and warm up more, especially those with the external cooler.  I have three GMT900s and one of them has over 225K on its original transmission.  Fluid gets changed about every 36K miles, all of it.     It's not the bean counters, it was the government.  They had to meet CAFE standards and other government requirements.   To get around that, we tune them and modify them to our liking.
    • Our customers' safety isn't something we take lightly. To ensure you get the proper assistance for your truck's repairs, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
    • We appreciate you sharing your experience with your truck. To ensure we get you the proper assistance, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...