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Posted

I'm in a heck of a mess with my '96, I got the snap ring off, but the cover is so corroded in there, it won't budge, I'm going to end up having to bust the cover, and clean up the corrosion and install a new cover and snap ring

Posted

Mine is going in the truck this Thursday. The reason for the delay is we're also dropping the pan to change the fluid out. Figured I might as well install a trans cooler while I'm at it.

Posted
I'm in a heck of a mess with my '96, I got the snap ring off, but the cover is so corroded in there, it won't budge, I'm going to end up having to bust the cover, and clean up the corrosion and install a new cover and snap ring

 

Ouch, that sucks, good luck getting that back together.

Posted
I'm in a heck of a mess with my '96, I got the snap ring off, but the cover is so corroded in there, it won't budge, I'm going to end up having to bust the cover, and clean up the corrosion and install a new cover and snap ring

 

 

If the cover moved inwards enough to allow the snap ring to be removed, then I would think the cover itself isn't frozen in place. The bore that the cover has to slide back out of could be that corroded I guess. I would try taking some type of small wire brush and cleaning the bore outside of the cover, or maybe a small piece of emery cloth to clean the bore. I definitely wouldn't try to break the cover and remove it in pieces. You are more likely to bust the cast aluminum housing than the cover.

 

And don't forget to cut the O-Ring and pull it out before removing the cover. This will make the cover much easier to remove. In fact, it is almost impossible to pull the cover without cutting the o-ring, unless the trans is out on a bench.

Posted
I'm in a heck of a mess with my '96, I got the snap ring off, but the cover is so corroded in there, it won't budge, I'm going to end up having to bust the cover, and clean up the corrosion and install a new cover and snap ring

 

 

If the cover moved inwards enough to allow the snap ring to be removed, then I would think the cover itself isn't frozen in place. The bore that the cover has to slide back out of could be that corroded I guess. I would try taking some type of small wire brush and cleaning the bore outside of the cover, or maybe a small piece of emery cloth to clean the bore. I definitely wouldn't try to break the cover and remove it in pieces. You are more likely to bust the cast aluminum housing than the cover.

 

And don't forget to cut the O-Ring and pull it out before removing the cover. This will make the cover much easier to remove. In fact, it is almost impossible to pull the cover without cutting the o-ring, unless the trans is out on a bench.

 

 

My cover came out with no problems and i didnt even cut the O ring. I thought it was going to be a huge pain but turned out to be pretty easy. Probably because the truck is so new. On another note, I tow a 22 foot boat pretty regularly and was wondering if a transmission cooler is worth it or not.

Posted
I'm in a heck of a mess with my '96, I got the snap ring off, but the cover is so corroded in there, it won't budge, I'm going to end up having to bust the cover, and clean up the corrosion and install a new cover and snap ring

 

 

If the cover moved inwards enough to allow the snap ring to be removed, then I would think the cover itself isn't frozen in place. The bore that the cover has to slide back out of could be that corroded I guess. I would try taking some type of small wire brush and cleaning the bore outside of the cover, or maybe a small piece of emery cloth to clean the bore. I definitely wouldn't try to break the cover and remove it in pieces. You are more likely to bust the cast aluminum housing than the cover.

 

And don't forget to cut the O-Ring and pull it out before removing the cover. This will make the cover much easier to remove. In fact, it is almost impossible to pull the cover without cutting the o-ring, unless the trans is out on a bench.

 

 

 

+1

Posted
I'm in a heck of a mess with my '96, I got the snap ring off, but the cover is so corroded in there, it won't budge, I'm going to end up having to bust the cover, and clean up the corrosion and install a new cover and snap ring

 

 

If the cover moved inwards enough to allow the snap ring to be removed, then I would think the cover itself isn't frozen in place. The bore that the cover has to slide back out of could be that corroded I guess. I would try taking some type of small wire brush and cleaning the bore outside of the cover, or maybe a small piece of emery cloth to clean the bore. I definitely wouldn't try to break the cover and remove it in pieces. You are more likely to bust the cast aluminum housing than the cover.

 

And don't forget to cut the O-Ring and pull it out before removing the cover. This will make the cover much easier to remove. In fact, it is almost impossible to pull the cover without cutting the o-ring, unless the trans is out on a bench.

 

 

My cover came out with no problems and i didnt even cut the O ring. I thought it was going to be a huge pain but turned out to be pretty easy. Probably because the truck is so new. On another note, I tow a 22 foot boat pretty regularly and was wondering if a transmission cooler is worth it or not.

 

 

I'd recommend an auxiliary cooler like the Hayden 679 or equivalent size. With the factory auxiliary cooler I was pretty easily able to get the trans temp to 196 degrees in 95 degree weather, not towing or hauling.

Posted
I'm in a heck of a mess with my '96, I got the snap ring off, but the cover is so corroded in there, it won't budge, I'm going to end up having to bust the cover, and clean up the corrosion and install a new cover and snap ring

 

 

If the cover moved inwards enough to allow the snap ring to be removed, then I would think the cover itself isn't frozen in place. The bore that the cover has to slide back out of could be that corroded I guess. I would try taking some type of small wire brush and cleaning the bore outside of the cover, or maybe a small piece of emery cloth to clean the bore. I definitely wouldn't try to break the cover and remove it in pieces. You are more likely to bust the cast aluminum housing than the cover.

 

And don't forget to cut the O-Ring and pull it out before removing the cover. This will make the cover much easier to remove. In fact, it is almost impossible to pull the cover without cutting the o-ring, unless the trans is out on a bench.

 

 

Yeah if it moved in then cut the Oring and get the corrosion from the area with a scuff pad or steel wool. If it went one way it will come the other way providing the trash is not in the way.

 

HITTING the servo could cause the THIN aluminum to break or stress crack.... NOT ADVISED

 

Jbo

Posted
got mine in a couple weeks ago. just curious what everybody's tranny temps are running at

 

Havent really noticed much change in the temp. what about you?

Posted

When my 2001 Denali had tranny failure at 60,000 miles I researched coolers for the tranny. I liked the B and M supercoolers. Prior experience told me to scrap the factory tranny cooler after the tranny failed to make sure no debree from the tranny failure were there to sabotage the new tranny after install.

The B and M was made by the same company out of Canada that made the factory Denali cooler. Sorry I don't remember the name but it is imprinted on the B and M cooler. If you believe what you read this type cools much better than most.

I stepped up to one rated for 15,000 gvw, overkill of course. It worked great and I did not notice any difference in engine cooling. Fit where the factory cooler fit with only minor modification.

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