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Anybody Use 0w-30 Synthetic?


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Posted

Anybody use this stuff? It live in a "sub-arctic" climate, 0w-30 is great stuff for those cold starts, although thats what the remote start is for, so I don't have to hear the bad noises, just curious if anyone uses it in there GMT 900 and if so, what brand as it is kinda elusive to find.

 

Further, is castrol Syntech an approved oil?

Posted

GM approved oil list...

 

http://www.gm.com/corporate/responsibility...engine_oils.pdf

 

Don't worry about the 0 being too thin....

0w, 5w, 10w, etc.is not weight but an somewhat arbitrary rating based on the oil low temperature flow and pumping characteristics - SAE J300 (1999) Motor Oil Grades- Low Temperature Specifications. I say somewhat arbitrary in that an oil that meets the 0w standard can be rated 5w or 10w because of the myth that "W" means weight ( it means winter) and 95-99% of the folks that recommend/sale/change oil believe this myth. We'll all heard "I would not use a 0 weight oil in your car.".

 

http://mysite.verizon.net/oldhokie/windyridge/oil.pdf

 

I use 0W30 German Castrol Syntec, the European formula. Its a fairly thick oil and works good for me.

Posted

I have a reasonable understanding of oil weight numbers and what they mean, I can't rember hte specifics, but I remember that at one point I decided that I like 0w because its about cold pumping (viscosity) characteristics, and it flows better during the -43 mornings. The second number has something to do with operating temperature.

 

According to that list Mobil one and 2 petro canada products are the only ones approved. Seeing as I do not want to void my warranty (I know, I know, I doubt using 0w-30 would, but I like to play by the rules) is there a reason why Castrol 0w-30 is not on there?

Posted
GM approved oil list...

 

http://www.gm.com/corporate/responsibility...engine_oils.pdf

 

Don't worry about the 0 being too thin....

0w, 5w, 10w, etc.is not weight but an somewhat arbitrary rating based on the oil low temperature flow and pumping characteristics - SAE J300 (1999) Motor Oil Grades- Low Temperature Specifications. I say somewhat arbitrary in that an oil that meets the 0w standard can be rated 5w or 10w because of the myth that "W" means weight ( it means winter) and 95-99% of the folks that recommend/sale/change oil believe this myth. We'll all heard "I would not use a 0 weight oil in your car.".

 

http://mysite.verizon.net/oldhokie/windyridge/oil.pdf

 

I use 0W30 German Castrol Syntec, the European formula. Its a fairly thick oil and works good for me.

I agree with Don. So much of what you hear about oil is just somebody's uneducated opinion. I think the 0-30 would work just fine... especially in cold climate areas.

Posted
Anybody use this stuff? It live in a "sub-arctic" climate, 0w-30 is great stuff for those cold starts, although thats what the remote start is for, so I don't have to hear the bad noises, just curious if anyone uses it in there GMT 900 and if so, what brand as it is kinda elusive to find.

 

Further, is castrol Syntech an approved oil?

 

What does the owners manual say for the climate you live in? That is what you should use.

 

It states (edit 2009 I am quite sure 2010 probably says the samething): "If in an area of extreme cold, where temperature falls below -20F degrees use either SAE 5w30 synthetic or SAE 0w30 engine oil. Both provide easier cold starting for the engine at extremely low temperatures."

 

Just me but unless it was -20 on a regular basis I would use the SAE 5w30.

 

Jbo

 

Edit: Take to note; newer engines are build to TIGHTER tolerances than ever before. So when they SAY NO 10W40 and 20w50, the usually mean it they engineered it that way. I have seen a BRAND new 2009 Lincoln Town Car POOR oil from the rear main and front crank seals..... Later I found out the owner had changed his own oil. The car had been towed on a roll back from his house where he changed the oil to my shop at my house..... He had the 20w50 bottles in a plastic bag in the passengers side with a note, "Please put back 20w50 when you figure out whats wrong. The Ford dealership could not tell me anything other than DO NOT USE 20w50". The oil was tooooo thick and the tight tolerances made for well over 100psi with 20w50, which is what caused his leak and cut rear main seal which was cut by the oil pressure. I had the engine out of a Lincoln Town Car with less than 5000 miles putting new seals in it. He refused to take it back to the dealer.

Posted
I have a reasonable understanding of oil weight numbers and what they mean, I can't rember hte specifics, but I remember that at one point I decided that I like 0w because its about cold pumping (viscosity) characteristics, and it flows better during the -43 mornings. The second number has something to do with operating temperature.

 

According to that list Mobil one and 2 petro canada products are the only ones approved. Seeing as I do not want to void my warranty (I know, I know, I doubt using 0w-30 would, but I like to play by the rules) is there a reason why Castrol 0w-30 is not on there?

 

The only Castrol in 0W30 being sold now is the Castrol Syntec European Formula. It will say on the back of the bottle...made in Germany. It is geared toward European cars. It is ILSAC GF-3 API SL.

 

The latest oil is rated ILSAC GF-4 API SM. This latest spec is all GM will approve.

 

This oil is BMW and VW approved and meets the European specs.

 

Mobil 1 0W30 will have the latest rating...

Posted
Anybody use this stuff? It live in a "sub-arctic" climate, 0w-30 is great stuff for those cold starts, although thats what the remote start is for, so I don't have to hear the bad noises, just curious if anyone uses it in there GMT 900 and if so, what brand as it is kinda elusive to find.

 

Further, is castrol Syntech an approved oil?

 

What does the owners manual say for the climate you live in? That is what you should use.

 

It states (edit 2009 I am quite sure 2010 probably says the samething): "If in an area of extreme cold, where temperature falls below -20F degrees use either SAE 5w30 synthetic or SAE 0w30 engine oil. Both provide easier cold starting for the engine at extremely low temperatures."

 

Just me but unless it was -20 on a regular basis I would use the SAE 5w30.

 

Jbo

 

Edit: Take to note; newer engines are build to TIGHTER tolerances than ever before. So when they SAY NO 10W40 and 20w50, the usually mean it they engineered it that way. I have seen a BRAND new 2009 Lincoln Town Car POOR oil from the rear main and front crank seals..... Later I found out the owner had changed is on oil. The car had been towed on a roll back from his house where he changed the oil to my shop at my house..... He had the 20w50 bottles in a plastic bag in the passengers side with a note, "Please put back 20w50 when you figure out whats wrong. The Ford dealership could not tell me anything other than DO NOT USE 20w50". The oil was tooooo thick and the tight tolerances made for well over 100psi with 20w50, which is what caused his leak and the cut rear main seal which was cut by the oil pressure. I had the engine out of a Lincoln TC with less than 5000 miles putting new seals in it. He refused to take it back to the dealer.

 

 

 

I disagree. The engines are not made to tighter tolerances. technology and machining processes are so much better, the manufacturers are able to hold the tolerances closer to nominal.

 

I live close to the Corvette factory. a couple of years ago I took a tour through the factory. Z06s were coming off the line. The ones for the USA had a small sticker by the door that said use 5W30 oil only. There was one headed for New Zealand. It said on the sticker use 5W40 oil only. Same engine.

 

Thinner oil in the USA is for cafe (gas mileage) only.

Posted

-20 F is about -29 C, avg temp last January was -25. Thats the avg, the cold nights were very cold, a lot of my shifts end at 4 am too, which = very cold start up, hence my interest in cold friendly oils....

 

So what you're saying is this german castrol stuff does meet gm specs? Obviously where I live is pretty remote, so availibility is always an issue, however they do have 0w 30 syntech at the canadian tire that is 3 hour away.

 

According to Mobil 1 site, they don't sell a 0w 30 product up here...

Posted
-20 F is about -29 C, avg temp last January was -25. Thats the avg, the cold nights were very cold, a lot of my shifts end at 4 am too, which = very cold start up, hence my interest in cold friendly oils....

 

So what you're saying is this german castrol stuff does meet gm specs? Obviously where I live is pretty remote, so availibility is always an issue, however they do have 0w 30 syntech at the canadian tire that is 3 hour away.

 

According to Mobil 1 site, they don't sell a 0w 30 product up here...

 

No, German Castrol 0W30 is not going to meet the GM approval...but it is damn good oil and you will not have an oil related problem. I have been using it for the last 4 years with no issues.

Posted

I know on bob the oil guy forums it is very highly regarded...This is more thinking for next winter, I doubt I'll need an oil change before them temps warm up this year, and I'll run 5w 30 in the summer...just trying to pick some of you oil guru's brains while the chill is still in the air!

Posted
Anybody use this stuff? It live in a "sub-arctic" climate, 0w-30 is great stuff for those cold starts, although thats what the remote start is for, so I don't have to hear the bad noises, just curious if anyone uses it in there GMT 900 and if so, what brand as it is kinda elusive to find.

 

Further, is castrol Syntech an approved oil?

 

What does the owners manual say for the climate you live in? That is what you should use.

 

It states (edit 2009 I am quite sure 2010 probably says the samething): "If in an area of extreme cold, where temperature falls below -20F degrees use either SAE 5w30 synthetic or SAE 0w30 engine oil. Both provide easier cold starting for the engine at extremely low temperatures."

 

Just me but unless it was -20 on a regular basis I would use the SAE 5w30.

 

Jbo

 

Edit: Take to note; newer engines are build to TIGHTER tolerances than ever before. So when they SAY NO 10W40 and 20w50, the usually mean it they engineered it that way. I have seen a BRAND new 2009 Lincoln Town Car POOR oil from the rear main and front crank seals..... Later I found out the owner had changed is on oil. The car had been towed on a roll back from his house where he changed the oil to my shop at my house..... He had the 20w50 bottles in a plastic bag in the passengers side with a note, "Please put back 20w50 when you figure out whats wrong. The Ford dealership could not tell me anything other than DO NOT USE 20w50". The oil was tooooo thick and the tight tolerances made for well over 100psi with 20w50, which is what caused his leak and the cut rear main seal which was cut by the oil pressure. I had the engine out of a Lincoln TC with less than 5000 miles putting new seals in it. He refused to take it back to the dealer.

 

 

 

I disagree. The engines are not made to tighter tolerances. technology and machining processes are so much better, the manufacturers are able to hold the tolerances closer to nominal.

 

I live close to the Corvette factory. a couple of years ago I took a tour through the factory. Z06s were coming off the line. The ones for the USA had a small sticker by the door that said use 5W30 oil only. There was one headed for New Zealand. It said on the sticker use 5W40 oil only. Same engine.

 

Thinner oil in the USA is for cafe (gas mileage) only.

 

 

How much plastigauge have you smashed on main and rod bearings on newer engines????? It is tighter (I am NAPA jobber with a full service machine shop). The light weight is also, about fuel economy too; I will agree with you on that.

Posted
I know on bob the oil guy forums it is very highly regarded...This is more thinking for next winter, I doubt I'll need an oil change before them temps warm up this year, and I'll run 5w 30 in the summer...just trying to pick some of you oil guru's brains while the chill is still in the air!

 

Yeah, I have been hanging out there for several years. There are some there that are full of it, but there are also some that know oil inside and out.

Take what ever Tom NJ says to the bank. He is a retired VP after 37 years with Hatco corp. They are the worlds largest producer of ester synthetic oil in the world. They developed the first synthetic oil for Amsoil in 1972. He knows what is going in the world of oil.

Posted
Anybody use this stuff? It live in a "sub-arctic" climate, 0w-30 is great stuff for those cold starts, although thats what the remote start is for, so I don't have to hear the bad noises, just curious if anyone uses it in there GMT 900 and if so, what brand as it is kinda elusive to find.

 

Further, is castrol Syntech an approved oil?

 

What does the owners manual say for the climate you live in? That is what you should use.

 

It states (edit 2009 I am quite sure 2010 probably says the samething): "If in an area of extreme cold, where temperature falls below -20F degrees use either SAE 5w30 synthetic or SAE 0w30 engine oil. Both provide easier cold starting for the engine at extremely low temperatures."

 

Just me but unless it was -20 on a regular basis I would use the SAE 5w30.

 

Jbo

 

Edit: Take to note; newer engines are build to TIGHTER tolerances than ever before. So when they SAY NO 10W40 and 20w50, the usually mean it they engineered it that way. I have seen a BRAND new 2009 Lincoln Town Car POOR oil from the rear main and front crank seals..... Later I found out the owner had changed is on oil. The car had been towed on a roll back from his house where he changed the oil to my shop at my house..... He had the 20w50 bottles in a plastic bag in the passengers side with a note, "Please put back 20w50 when you figure out whats wrong. The Ford dealership could not tell me anything other than DO NOT USE 20w50". The oil was tooooo thick and the tight tolerances made for well over 100psi with 20w50, which is what caused his leak and the cut rear main seal which was cut by the oil pressure. I had the engine out of a Lincoln TC with less than 5000 miles putting new seals in it. He refused to take it back to the dealer.

 

 

 

I disagree. The engines are not made to tighter tolerances. technology and machining processes are so much better, the manufacturers are able to hold the tolerances closer to nominal.

 

I live close to the Corvette factory. a couple of years ago I took a tour through the factory. Z06s were coming off the line. The ones for the USA had a small sticker by the door that said use 5W30 oil only. There was one headed for New Zealand. It said on the sticker use 5W40 oil only. Same engine.

 

Thinner oil in the USA is for cafe (gas mileage) only.

 

 

How much plastigauge have you smashed on main and rod bearings on newer engines????? It is tighter (I am NAPA jobber with a full service machine shop). The light weight is also, about fuel economy too; I will agree with you on that.

 

 

 

I am not going to get in a peeing contest. I Built my first engine in 1958. I restored cars for most of my life. I also attended gas and diesel tech. I was a process engineer for General Electric in the 70s. I have been a manufacturing manager for a tier 1 GM supplier. I have worked in GM dealerships. I am retired now. I would say I am qualified...

 

Someday I am going to do a comparison analysis of bearing tolerance over the last 20 years....

 

have a good one..

Posted

Texas, no real need to switch to a lighter 5w30 unless your temps are consistently under 0-10 degrees..

 

as for the 0w30.. i'd use it, but i changed my truck into 5w-30 in october and still have a 2k left to go till my next change..

 

same note, i ran 0w20 in my 06 civic during the winters around here last year.. our average lows are 10degrees- -20degrees with some extremes, ran just fine.. and as long as there is a 30weight in your truck, the warm temp running is the same as any other..

 

0= extreme cold

5=cold

10 = summer oils to me.. i always cross seasons so i rarely use 10w30 in my truck because i run the motorcycle so much in the summer.

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