Trailer Hitches

TRCM · April 8, 2010

My truck came with a decent hitch on it, but it sits too low for my uses and I'm not a big fan of its construction. It is rated 600/6000 & 1100/10500.

What I don't like about it is the short receiver tube, and that it sits almost 3" below the bumper.

I have been doing some research, and figured I'd ask here to see if any of yall have found a hitch that sits closer to the bumper ?

I am currently looking at this one pretty hard (the xd 15k rated version that shows up if you click on NBS for the last option). I know it is rated more then the truck, but I would rather have a hitch that is overkill than one that looks as flimsy as whats on it now. I have never had a hitch on any truck of mine that was less than 12k rated, and this one will be the same.

http://www.realtruck.com/curt_class_iv_v_t...2008Y734MA.html

better pic of the hitch itself

http://www.realtruck.com/php/watermark.php....wct&id=392

nickvrebel · April 8, 2010

I had installed a DrawTite brand hitch on my 2003, it was only a Class III, but it sat right under the bumper and was way cleaner than the factory hitch. May be worth looking in to

thearborbarber · April 8, 2010

I have had curt hitches on all three of my truck including the magnum V that you are looking at. You will not be disappointed.

AgDoctor · April 8, 2010

i can tell you that i have have went well beyond the max towing rating on my hitch and not had any trouble. i have overloaded it on tongue weight and payload weight. i have hauled a caterpillar skid steer loader that weighs about 14,000 lbs. on a lowboy trialer thats 20 ft long(not sure onf the weight). it was extremely heavy on the tongue weight, as i had to pull the cat to the front of the trailer to strap it down against the front brace. i pulled the trailer 55, it was a well known fact it was behind me but the truck could handle it. the brakes on the other hand are not quite rated for that poundage though.

TRCM · April 8, 2010

i can tell you that i have have went well beyond the max towing rating on my hitch and not had any trouble. i have overloaded it on tongue weight and payload weight. i have hauled a caterpillar skid steer loader that weighs about 14,000 lbs. on a lowboy trialer thats 20 ft long(not sure onf the weight). it was extremely heavy on the tongue weight, as i had to pull the cat to the front of the trailer to strap it down against the front brace. i pulled the trailer 55, it was a well known fact it was behind me but the truck could handle it. the brakes on the other hand are not quite rated for that poundage though.

You have the stock hitch that hangs 3" below the bumper and bolts to the bumper ?

Right now, my options are either get a new hitch, in the $200 range, or buy an adjustable insert since the 3" drop from the bumper makes all my current inserts too low, which is another $200.

sc4808 · April 8, 2010

i can tell you that i have have went well beyond the max towing rating on my hitch and not had any trouble. i have overloaded it on tongue weight and payload weight. i have hauled a caterpillar skid steer loader that weighs about 14,000 lbs. on a lowboy trialer thats 20 ft long(not sure onf the weight). it was extremely heavy on the tongue weight, as i had to pull the cat to the front of the trailer to strap it down against the front brace. i pulled the trailer 55, it was a well known fact it was behind me but the truck could handle it. the brakes on the other hand are not quite rated for that poundage though.

You have the stock hitch that hangs 3" below the bumper and bolts to the bumper ?

Right now, my options are either get a new hitch, in the $200 range, or buy an adjustable insert since the 3" drop from the bumper makes all my current inserts too low, which is another $200.

If you have a fixed insert (non adjustable) then you simply remove the ball and flip it over making it a rise instead of a drop, on my 08 I run a 3" rise.

music · April 8, 2010

I've been towing our 7k lb camper w/ the stock hitch and a Reese Dual Cam WD system (w/ 1200 lb bars). I haven't noticed anything odd, but I would be curious to know if the stock hitch has excess flex or anything of that nature. Seems pretty stout to me.

sc4808 · April 8, 2010

The way that I read the OP was more that he had an issue with the OEM hitch sitting 3" lower than an aftermarket hitch (which hugs up tight against the bumper and looks better), not that it was so much of a strength issue, I know that he mentioned the capacity of the hitch but the truck is only rated to tow 8K or so and all of the hitches have a huge safety factor so there is not much chance of damaging either the factory or aftermarket hitch. NOT THAT I RECOMMEND OVERLOADING A HITCH, but they can handle way more weight than the sticker says, that is for liability reasons. Heck I once pulled a loaded 18 wheeler for 2 miles (just to get him safely off the road) that weighed 80,000 pounds with no damage to the truck or hitch.

I got the impression (forgive me if I am wrong) that he does not know that the ball mounts can be used as a drop or raised hitch, most say right on them something like 3'drop or 2"raise, just depends on which way you mount the ball and slide it in the receiver, the rating is the same.

If you are using a Weight Distributing hitch (ball mount) that is non adjustable then I can understand your dilemma but it would still be cheaper to just buy an adjustable head for your WD Hitch.

Now if you just prefer the looks of the aftermarket hitch then that is a whole different story. I have a Drawtite on my 03 Sierra because I like the high and tight look much better.

On my 2008 I use a ballmount that is a 5" raise when towing my boat which makes the boat sit level but still allows clearance for the tailgate to lower without contacting the trailer tongue.

TRCM · April 9, 2010

The way that I read the OP was more that he had an issue with the OEM hitch sitting 3" lower than an aftermarket hitch (which hugs up tight against the bumper and looks better), not that it was so much of a strength issue, I know that he mentioned the capacity of the hitch but the truck is only rated to tow 8K or so and all of the hitches have a huge safety factor so there is not much chance of damaging either the factory or aftermarket hitch. NOT THAT I RECOMMEND OVERLOADING A HITCH, but they can handle way more weight than the sticker says, that is for liability reasons. Heck I once pulled a loaded 18 wheeler for 2 miles (just to get him safely off the road) that weighed 80,000 pounds with no damage to the truck or hitch.

I got the impression (forgive me if I am wrong) that he does not know that the ball mounts can be used as a drop or raised hitch, most say right on them something like 3'drop or 2"raise, just depends on which way you mount the ball and slide it in the receiver, the rating is the same.

If you are using a Weight Distributing hitch (ball mount) that is non adjustable then I can understand your dilemma but it would still be cheaper to just buy an adjustable head for your WD Hitch.

Now if you just prefer the looks of the aftermarket hitch then that is a whole different story. I have a Drawtite on my 03 Sierra because I like the high and tight look much better.

On my 2008 I use a ballmount that is a 5" raise when towing my boat which makes the boat sit level but still allows clearance for the tailgate to lower without contacting the trailer tongue.

Yes, I have an issue with the way it looks, and the loss of ground clearance - mainly it's in the way when working under the truck

Well, I do happen to know that you can flip the insert, but ya might want to remove and remount the ball first. I also know that a solid class 5 insert fits better and has less clank than the standard hollow class 3 & 4 inserts.

The problem, is I tow different trailers, and I have several inserts here, but I still had to buy one to get my boat trailer to sit level when towing. My old truck was a 97 3500 dodge dually, so it sat fairly high, where as the silverado sits much lower. Almost all my inserts were for the higher truck. And with the dually, I never even bothered with the WD hitch, as it never knew the camper was back there anyways.

I also prefer the construction of the aftermarket hitch better with regards to it being a square vs round beam, and it has more metal holding the reciever to the beam as well.

When I was towing my camper with my non-adjustable WD hitch, I swear the receiver on the truck was tweaked up (as in no longer level under the truck) and that concerns me a lot.

Either way, I am looking at spending some money. Either I get the new hitch and feel better about it and continue to use my old WD hitch setup, or I spend money on a new WD hitch setup and use the hitch I have now. Either way, the money is about the same within 50 bucks.

sc4808 · April 9, 2010

These trucks do sit a lot lower than even the last generation trucks, and yes, I agree that the drop down on the hitch is silly and I also prefer the High and tight look. As far as strength, I don't think there is an issue with the OEM hitch, it is very strong and far surpasses the towing capacity of the truck.

Its quite a difference between that Dodge Dually and your Silverado, both in stance and capabilities.

I too was using a fixed WD hitch on my 03, when I bought the 08 I had to go out and purchase an adjustable WD hitch because my travel trailer sat too low in the front with the fixed head.

I did not mean to imply that you did not know what you were doing, its just that there are people on here that have 0 towing experience, which is OK too.

TRCM · April 9, 2010

These trucks do sit a lot lower than even the last generation trucks, and yes, I agree that the drop down on the hitch is silly and I also prefer the High and tight look. As far as strength, I don't think there is an issue with the OEM hitch, it is very strong and far surpasses the towing capacity of the truck.

Its quite a difference between that Dodge Dually and your Silverado, both in stance and capabilities.

I too was using a fixed WD hitch on my 03, when I bought the 08 I had to go out and purchase an adjustable WD hitch because my travel trailer sat too low in the front with the fixed head.

I did not mean to imply that you did not know what you were doing, its just that there are people on here that have 0 towing experience, which is OK too.

It's all good....the dually regularly towed my 24 ft flatbed gooseneck all over the east coast, usually in excess of 8 tons on it too. I miss it already, and I know the guys in my hunt club are gonna miss it too this year, as I was always the one who hauled the equipment out to the property on my flatbed when it was time to make repairs to the roads. Not gonna happen this year, at least not with me doing the towing anyways.

And as to the capabilities, heck, I could put my silverado in the bed of the dually and it probably wouldn't know it was there.

I simply got rid of it for the following reasons:

1) manual transmission (getting too old to shift)

2) no rear doors for the extended cab

3) pregnant fenders make it impossible to see an empty boat trailer, even with the fancy fold out towing mirrors (which I miss very bad)

4) cost an extra 600 bucks a year to keep registered

5) none of my fishing buddies know how to drive a diesel manual up a boat ramp or how to back up a dually when there is no boat on the empty trailer

6) really don't need such a big truck anymore

7) previous owner didn't take very good care of the engine and it was starting to need rebuilding pretty bad

8) had some body rot I didn't care to deal with as well

9) was tired of having to turn it off at the drive thru to place my order...

My WD hitch is probably as old the camper (35 yrs young), but it works. Just no adjustment to it, and it sits about 6" too high to level the trailer behind the truck like you should.