Daryl LBZ Posted April 23, 2010 Posted April 23, 2010 I was thinking about buying this kit and sell my RC 2" Kit. If I would get this one I would make it 3 inches in the front and then add a block in the rear. My question is that is this kit any different compared to the one I have now as far as ball joint wear goes? Im pretty sure Ive heard that there is no difference in where the kit would be placed it would still affect the ball joints. I was just looking for a definate answer. Thanks. http://www.proryde.com/Chevrolet_GMC_Fulls..._p/74-1000g.htm
mhenshaw Posted April 23, 2010 Posted April 23, 2010 I was thinking about buying this kit and sell my RC 2" Kit. If I would get this one I would make it 3 inches in the front and then add a block in the rear. My question is that is this kit any different compared to the one I have now as far as ball joint wear goes? Im pretty sure Ive heard that there is no difference in where the kit would be placed it would still affect the ball joints. I was just looking for a definate answer. Thanks. http://www.proryde.com/Chevrolet_GMC_Fulls..._p/74-1000g.htm Keep what you have. 3in is way to much for the front end. If you want 3in the only decent kit is Rough Country with their upper A-arms, but people had trouble in the past with their ball joints. There is no difference in where the kit is placed (top or bottom of strut) they both make the strut longer and the longer the strut the more of an angle on the ball joints.
Daryl LBZ Posted April 23, 2010 Author Posted April 23, 2010 I was thinking about buying this kit and sell my RC 2" Kit. If I would get this one I would make it 3 inches in the front and then add a block in the rear. My question is that is this kit any different compared to the one I have now as far as ball joint wear goes? Im pretty sure Ive heard that there is no difference in where the kit would be placed it would still affect the ball joints. I was just looking for a definate answer. Thanks. http://www.proryde.com/Chevrolet_GMC_Fulls..._p/74-1000g.htm Keep what you have. 3in is way to much for the front end. If you want 3in the only decent kit is Rough Country with their upper A-arms, but people had trouble in the past with their ball joints. There is no difference in where the kit is placed (top or bottom of strut) they both make the strut longer and the longer the strut the more of an angle on the ball joints. Yep thats what I thought. Thanks for the quick reply.
MS3DALE Posted April 23, 2010 Posted April 23, 2010 I was thinking about buying this kit and sell my RC 2" Kit. If I would get this one I would make it 3 inches in the front and then add a block in the rear. My question is that is this kit any different compared to the one I have now as far as ball joint wear goes? Im pretty sure Ive heard that there is no difference in where the kit would be placed it would still affect the ball joints. I was just looking for a definate answer. Thanks. http://www.proryde.com/Chevrolet_GMC_Fulls..._p/74-1000g.htm Keep what you have. 3in is way to much for the front end. If you want 3in the only decent kit is Rough Country with their upper A-arms, but people had trouble in the past with their ball joints. There is no difference in where the kit is placed (top or bottom of strut) they both make the strut longer and the longer the strut the more of an angle on the ball joints. +1 I wouldn't go more than 2" without dropping the front diff.,But even then you still have the steep ball joint angles,unless you also drop the a-arms.
Matt_ Posted April 23, 2010 Posted April 23, 2010 dont forget about steering components! lol it seems like some people only focus on the CVs, others only focus on the balljoints, and everyone forgets about the tie rods & applicable steering combonents. all of the above are affected by leveling kits. for GMT900 trucks one of the biggest concerns IMO is the steering rack... steering rack and pinions (well, rack and pinions in general) do not like side loads. once they develope slack, you'll be replacing an expensive steering rack as opposed to replacing idler and pitman arms which were used in the GMT800 steering systems.
Daryl LBZ Posted April 23, 2010 Author Posted April 23, 2010 dont forget about steering components! lol it seems like some people only focus on the CVs, others only focus on the balljoints, and everyone forgets about the tie rods & applicable steering combonents. all of the above are affected by leveling kits. for GMT900 trucks one of the biggest concerns IMO is the steering rack... steering rack and pinions (well, rack and pinions in general) do not like side loads. once they develope slack, you'll be replacing an expensive steering rack as opposed to replacing idler and pitman arms which were used in the GMT800 steering systems. Oh yea and I def don't want to be doing that. So is the RC 2" going to hurt the steering rack at all?
Matt_ Posted April 23, 2010 Posted April 23, 2010 only time will tell... the higher the leveling kit the worse it is.... so id stick with 2" or less. in general, the steering racks should last longer and develop less slack than the previous model years steering design when used as the designed ride height. i dont think GM considered the effects of leveling kits on this part..... to the consumer that means a $300+ (or more?)part at 60-70k miles as opposed to < $100 for an idler or pitman replacement . (generalized the life at 60-70k based on the work i did in the shop.. some last longer some dont) in the end, its not a $4000 part or something..... but its worth knowing/understanding so you know what to expect down the road. gotta pay to play
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