Jump to content

Finally Finished...


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 35
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

Truck looks sick brother... :lol:

I just bought a 2010 Silverado :D ,

 

After extensive reserach I have decided that this is the right way to go.

However I am still undecided as to who's product to buy.

 

Why didn't you go with the Zone 3.5" combo kit?

Posted
Truck looks sick brother... :lol:

I just bought a 2010 Silverado :D ,

 

After extensive reserach I have decided that this is the right way to go.

However I am still undecided as to who's product to buy.

Why didn't you go with the Zone 3.5" combo kit?

 

3.5" isn't going to be enough to properly fit 305/55/20s, you'll need to trim.

 

The OP is running 1.5" leveling kit + 3" body lift.. so that's 4.5" which looks to be the exact/minimum amount to run those tires without rubbing issues.

 

The Zone 3.5" kit is a 2" leveling kit and a 1.5" body lift... so not only does it net you an inch less in height, but you'll also have steeper CV/balljoint/tie rod angles due to the 2" leveling kit as opposed to the 1.5" (every little bit helps... the steeper the angles the worse it is).

Posted

Got it thank you Matt, I have read a lot of post from you and is sounds like you don't recommend anything more than the 1.5" leveling. so in you opinion this is the right way to do it?

Posted
Got it thank you Matt, I have read a lot of post from you and is sounds like you don't recommend anything more than the 1.5" leveling. so in you opinion this is the right way to do it?

 

I don't recommend going over 2". I personally would not go over 1.5" though on my own truck.

 

Other than buying a 4-5" suspension lift... yes, the best way IMO to run a 33x12 tire is the 3" body lift coupled with a 1.5 or 2" leveling kit

Posted

Getting close to posting some gap guard pictures. Front is done and looks sweet (IMO) and the rear should be done tomorrow. Will post some pics soon.

 

As far as clearance is concerned I do rub my mudflaps occasionally but don't think I will rub the inner fender once the flaps are removed. In order to preserve the side of the truck I am leaving the flaps on until I get some paint matched fender flares.

Posted

Have you driven above 70 yet? I was really surprised at the increase in noise level above 75 mph. Below that, I would say they are "the" quietest mud tire.

Posted

Couple of things.. I did post the gap guard pictures, but some how they didn't make it up after the the site had it's issues last week. I'll get 'em back up tomorrow. Also noticed that the title is a little misleading. Should be more like "finally got all the shit Ive been collecting for the truck installed". It'll probably never be "finished".

Posted

looks good. i like the black with the red. have you tried the tires offroad yet? i want my next set to be a mud tire, but i havent decided which one.

 

look sick! what about you front hook still usable? Could you also get closer pic of your hitch. I'm looking to do something like that but not sure about the 3"BL because i've read you cant use the front hook no more... and i want to install a hitch too but wondering if it will look out of place.... leaning toward zone 3.5" combo kit right now but might like 3"BL + key better if it can work out...

 

the body lift for my truck meant getting rid of the stock tow hooks. not sure if its the same for yours, but they are both gmt800s so theres a chance it is. i have the performance accessories 3" body lift. i plan on doing something like this to get my tow hooks back:

 

http://www.fullsizechevy.com/showthread.ph...custom+tow+hook

 

the hitch looks just like his does too, it stays in the same place with just a 3" tube connecting it to the bumper- and make sure you dont tow with the bumper once you put the lift in.

Posted

Sorry it took a little longer than I expected. Here are the gap guard pics for the second time:

 

GapGuard-2.jpg

GapGuard-1.jpg

GapGuard-4.jpg

GapGuard-3.jpg

 

At first I wasn't sure if I was going to paint the rivets black or not. Since installing them I am starting to actually like how they tie into the wheels.

 

--As far as the tire noise is concerned, got up to 70 and it was louder but didn't get up to 75 yet. Will try to give some feedback soon.

Posted
did you make those yourself??

 

yes sir. It really wasn't too hard. If you still need some, I can put together the shopping list.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Sounds like converting will be a bigger endeavor than I was thinking. This truck doesn't have 2Hi like the Suburban did. The Tahoe has 4Hi and 4Lo and a button to turn of traction control.   From what I understand the Stabilitrak uses open diff in the front and rear. When wheel speed is not the same the stabilitrak uses the ABS system to slowdown the spinning wheel(s) to transfer power to the slower non-spinning wheel(s). I thought the transfer case was open too. Being able to transfer power either more to front or rear depending on wheel spin. Maybe I miss understood some information with you saying and power transfer is 50-50. Thanks
    • My brother has a 2007 Avalanche with afm 5.3. It`s got 176,000 miles. Runs like a clock. Never been apart. Co worker has a 2010 Tahoe with afm 5.3. 230,000 miles. Never been apart. Runs like a clock. So, even though cyl deac is a weak spot, they can go the distance.   BUT, these engines had the oil changed regularly, AND had 5w30 as spec. I wonder if they would have lasted this far on 0w20? I`ll bet not.
    • I certainly could be wrong but I hear of pickups far newer than that 2007 cutoff which may not be going to the wrecker but are having engine work done and be that a reman engine or new engine or trying to repair the existing engine. Some of it would be design issues as per the cylinder deactivation system that GM has and one of those lifters wiping out the cam and the question of oil changes moving the needle or not on that whole mess, or in the case of Ford pickup engines that have the long timing chains and wearing them out and the roller followers and phasers and some of that certainly goes back to oil change intervals. But in those various cases the truck has all sorts of life left in it and so the unfortunate owner and may be original owner or used market owner that is pouring money into repairs so the truck is not seeing the salvage yard yet but damage is happening by infrequent oil changes. A friends son had bought a 2018 I think it is half ton GM and it had some sort of extended or used dealer warranty on it and of course the lifter issue bites and its rattling and so the dealer had to swallow the bill and was at least 7000.00 and I think they only replaced what they felt they had to replace so yeah, I can see that being a ticking time bomb in the not too distant future. Would frequent oil changes cure all these engineering "marvels", probably not but some engine designs have shown that they do much better if the oil is changed a lot more often then if the manufacturer service claims are followed. New trucks cost so much that there is an incentive to keep the existing truck on the road by repairing. 
    • get a good code reader, and find out what problems the truck has noticed by reading codes. cheap ones can only get basic engine codes, you may want to get one that can get codes from all the computers in your truck.
    • This is sort of my point, salvage yards aren't overflowing with all these 'poorly' maintained trucks - excellent/good/servicable condition otherwise, salvaged only as a result of a bad engine from poor oil change regiment.    In my area, there are no 2007 to newer gm trucks/suvs in any salvage yards. A few are in the 'recyclers' with very obvious reasons for being there - wrecked.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...