A Few more mods!!!

5.3LSilverado01 · August 31, 2002

Ok, I finally got my password sorted out here...

I did the ERG Mod and was very pleased with results, I going to port my MAF and do the TB bypass next.

The shift kit was easy to intsall and worth every penny!!!!! The Royal Purple ATF and the shift kit make the old tranny feel sluggish compared to now!!!

I bought some MSD 8.5mm Plug Wires too!!! AWSOME!!! IF YOU GOT $57, GO GET THEM!!! The extra low-end torque for 4th gear highway cruising is absolutely amazing!!! The truck will jump from 70 to 80 to 90 and keep on pulling in 4th!!! Just cruising at 70 almost requires you to pull the go-pedal towards you or you'll sneak up to 80 in no time! Got 36.67mpg (calculated) coming back from houston the other night! I thought my truck was easy to start before, starts in like 1/2 the time now. High end reving is even more smooth and powerful.

I'm saving up for a trip to MTI Motorsports for a Stage 2 heads port and polish and cam package, MTI reprograming, headers and maybe true duals.

That done I should be putting atleast 500hp to the ground (my goal).

SnakeEyeSS · September 1, 2002

I've been thinking about the MSD 8.5's but haven't got them yet, but now I am.

Next you ought to get your truck dyno'ed BEFORE the MTI work, and then after. ;)

Never heard of MTI, BTW, do they do stuff for the 88-95 TBI 350's(do they have a website?)? If a cam and head job will give you 500 RW HP, these guys have gotta be awesome!

DeezBlueZ · September 1, 2002

Does MSD have a kit to fit the LS1 trucks? Do you have a part number??? Thanks

5.3LSilverado01 · September 1, 2002

They will Dyno it before and after for free, also again for the reprogramming (which does adjust the torque managment too, $500). They mostly do LS1/LS6 Vette's and F-bodies, but they'll do a LS1 truck.

http://www.motorsporttech.com/2002_website/MTIintroB.html

Yes, MSD has a kit for the LS1 Trucks, its different from the Corvette/f-body kits, the truck kit has 12" wires, the car kit has 8" wires. Part number is 32829.

"MSD 8.5mm SUPER CONDUCTOR WIRE SET PN 32829. SC, 1999 LS-1 TRUCK ENGINES"

Curtis Loew · September 1, 2002

You,ve certainly verified one thing for me. Texans do tell tall tales indeed. 36.67 mpg? I suggest you toss your calculator out the window on your next trip to Houston.

5.3LSilverado01 · September 2, 2002

I'm not a texan, i'm canadian... I filled up the tank at a Chevron, then I drove 132 miles using 1/8th tank (gas gauge), and then filled up the tank again at another Chevron using from what I can tell, the same model gas pump, I put 3.6 gallons till the handle clicked off. 132/3.6 is 36.66666 or 36.67. Is it not? Mabey your calculator is smarter than mine. I know thats not going to be exact, but pretty dang close. This was a night time. If you don't beleive me, thats fine. The truck doesn't need your ok to get that kind of mpg.

MarkD · September 2, 2002

C'mon guys 36 mpg does sound um...excessive.Let us know when you get some more data.

Congrats on the great mileage.

BTW, I get about 17mpg.

5.3LSilverado01 · September 2, 2002

My city mpg isn't even worth figuring out, I like low rpm 2nd gear pull and my exhaust note to much

I'm only talking about freeway cruising. 70mph with a few times at 80. Even on your window sticker where it says your est mpg, if you read the fine print under that, it gives the recorded range of the mpg, and it says they got as high as 28mpg, stock. Remember i got a 3.42 rear end and no 4wd to lug around.

SnakeEyeSS · September 2, 2002

what you probably didn't consider is that it is WAY too easy for the handle to click of early, I had this happen before with only 4 gallons in the tank. And there is NO way your going to get 36 MPG in a truck, especially at 70 to 80, for most any vehicle, maximum high way milage happens around 65-70, over 70 and your most likely to lose milage.

I'm betting the handle click off a little early, and you'r really etting more like 32, MAX, and even thats a strech.

Tucson_02Silverado · September 2, 2002

MPG is basically averaging. For the best average you need a lot of data points. Enough math. The only real way to calculate MPG is pick a station, a pump and a time of day. Fill up at that pump (note the gallons out to three decimal if displayed ie. 19.023), zero your trip odometer, drive till at least 1/4 left (it doesn't have to be exactly 1/4), fill back up at the same pump at the approximate same time of day as last fillup. Note the trip odometer reading next to the last fillup gallons number. WRITE IT ALL DOWN.

Fillup Gallons Trip

1 19.023 366.4

2 18.760 323.8

3 18.963 358.3

Fillup 1 MPG (Trip/Gallons) 19.26

Fillup 2 MPG (Trip/Gallons) 17.26

Fillup 3 MPG (Trip/Gallons) 18.89

Average MPG ((Fillup 1+Fillup 2+Fillup 3)/3) 18.47

Why the same pump at the same station at the same time of day?

Basic rule of troubleshooting; lesson your unknown variable.

Same pump at same station is likely to dispense the fuel the same way each time until it is serviced.

Same time of day; fuel expands and contracts with heat thus the same time of day makes sure you probably filled the tank with same volume of fuel each time.

jd hauler · September 3, 2002

On the mods, can you tell me what you do to the MAF and the EGR ? what other mods and what can you expect, I'd like to try some , also the 57 dollar wires, I see the wire is connected directly to the coil pack, How does this get changed? Where do you get these wires? , ps, will this work on a 6.0 ? . Just had my fuel regulator replaced, it was bad, now mileage is going much better, haven't figured it yet , but much better. thanks guys.

TxDoc · September 3, 2002

Maybe he meant Km/g? 36 miles would be about 21 Km?

On the MAF alteration, you may read this first:

Some info I ran across a while back:

Tech Tips

MAF Screen Removal

One Word ~ DON'T

Let me start by saying this article is a combination of research available on the internet, my humble opinion, and the following of hundreds of tech post regarding MAF Screen Removal.

A few years ago Hot Rod Magazine ran an article on the proposed horsepower gain that could be had for free by the removal of the front and rear MAF Screens. Adding to the resulting screen removal frenzy are companies like TPIS that offer the service of removing the screens and "gutting" the fins, again, for a reported HP gain.

The most critical note to be realized (that most don't) is that the engines that these were being used on were heavily modified.

The Myth: Across the internet and word of mouth spread the news of this "free mod" and countless pages promoted the technique of MAF Screen Removal without considering some very basic theories and the potential harm of doing this mod. Consequently time after time you will see the post and topics "I removed my screens - now Code 33".

The Fact: The MAF Screen Removal Process WILL NOT CREATE horsepower within itself. It can only in the right conditions FREE UP horsepower that ALREADY EXIST and only under certain conditions.

Why?

1. Your stock MAF with screens will outflow your stock 48mm throttle body.

2. It will even outflow a 52mm throttle body.

3. It will also outflow your stock intake.

This Means: that if you are still using these stock components your MAF screen removal process is totally wasted and potentially (code 33) dangerous and could cost $100.00 + if you screw it up. The MAF has to be the most restrictive element in your chain of flow to even possibly make the mod worth anything and ONLY if you already have the horsepower to free up by a modified throttle body and intake.

Why the Screens?

What kicks me in the pants is not only do I personally feel that these screens are the single most important part of the MAF but that they serve multiple purposes. The screen in the front filters potential debris, prevents something from being dropped into the MAF when working on car, a tool slipping, etc., and the rear screen not only serves the same protective service but it also helps cushion potential damages to the fragile MAF wire that can be caused by a backfire under lean conditions. And these services are secondary to their primary purpose which is to regulate airflow for measuring purposes.

Are the Screens Restrictive?

Absolutely they are, but by design. Is your voltage regulator restrictive? Is your air cleaner restrictive? Is your fuel filter restrictive? Are your fuel injectors restrictive? Is your fuel pressure regulator restrictive? Yes they are.....by design. Would you remove your air cleaner or fuel filter? We are blessed with the common sense that although restrictive we find these components necessary for proper operation and to remove them would be foolish or asking for trouble. It is very unfortunate that we don't possess the same common sense regarding the MAF sensor.

Theory of Operation

Understand two terms first of all. Turbulent Airflow and Laminar Airflow. They are opposites. Without definition we can identify with "turbulent" but "laminar" airflow would define as "smooth, straightened out, regulated".

To help understand some conflicting articles I will point out an important factor here right away. There is no such thing as turbulence free airflow. Airflow is a "fluid flow" and a fluid flowing past obstructions, against boundaries, even the composition of the fluid itself in different densities and pressures create turbulences that can't be removed. So when we speak of Laminar Airflow being smoothed out and being the opposite of turbulent airflow we're speaking of a "controlled turbulence" vs. "uncontrolled turbulence".

Envision this process by thinking of your kitchen faucet. The little screen on the end. Take it out and watch your water flow increase but also notice it splash around and surge. You can see the uneven flow very easily. Put the aerator back in and see it smooth out in a more regulated even flow. Look at the end of most hair dryers and they will have a screen in them. Of course this is to prevent getting your hair sucked up in there and catching your head on fire BUT it also disperses the air in a more even, regulated pattern. Think of the construction of a dam on a river. You KNOW it is restrictive. It "holds back" the natural flow of water and regulates it to a desired given amount. Why? To do something productive with the process of flow. Just like your MAF screens.

The MAF Process

I am going to chop this section down to the most basic of processes. GM didn't invent this process, as a matter of fact it is the same process used by the weather industry to measure "chill factor" so it's theory was utilized by GM not invented by them.

1. You have a small wire inside your MAF which can be heated.

2. It is calibrated at zero airflow to be a certain temperature.

3. Air flowing across the wire cools it off. The more air flow the cooler the wire.

4. A voltage is supplied to that wire to keep it at a constant temperature. The more air flowing, the cooler the wire, the more voltage required to keep it the same temp.

5. This voltage fluctuation is a measurable, readable function which when converted to a digital output can be used for calibrations of airflow entering your intake.

6. These calibrations are referenced to a lookup table stored in your ECM and based on these fluctuations various functions of your engine are controlled based on the amount of airflow you are encountering.

The screens are there simply to provide a steady, stable, regulated environment for the most precise calculations available.

Now I will point you back to one of my previous "goofy-assed" examples and ask: Would it be easier to count the number of gallons that flow past a certain point in the river ...with the dam or without it? That is what your screens are for... to establish "near as possible" level playing field ground zero reference point for calibrations.

What Happens When They are Removed

Without the screen, the computer can not take a correct reading on how much air is entering the engine. When you port the MAF housing and/or remove the screens you are causing air to move by the sensors that is not being measured. Lower frequency outputs are being read by the lookup charts and the calculations are based on lower than actual airflow.

This makes the ECM lean out the fuel mixture and add timing. Then the oxygen sensors read the lean fuel mixture and bump it back up to compensate for the MAF sensors low readings.

In Summary I would say that I have heard of people making this mod and not having trouble codes. I have also heard of reported gains in performance. In both of these situations, if true, you have my respect and congradulations. But I have never seen proof of these gains especially on a stock setup. I have however lost count of the number of post that are encountering trouble after making this "free" mod. Further I would say that if the horsepower is not there in the first place your sure not going to create any new horsepower cutting out your screens.

The MAF is a truly unique and awesome device that allows us to drive in different environments (altitudes) with no intake modifications. Allows us to make "other" performance mods without having to calibrate a new PROM. To butcher it and make it less accurate and precise just doesn't make sense to me.

1. If you are driving a stock intake car this mod will do absolutely nothing for you.

2. If you have such a heavily modified engine that it would make a difference Why are you using the MAF system anyway? .....you should be on Speed Density with a custom chip.

My personal disclaimer is this. If you have already cut your screens out I am not saying your stupid or you did something bad. I am saying that maybe you were misinformed or that there was a lack of information available to make the best possible decision for your situation. This article is not to point out mistakes, make fun of, or even say "I'm right ~ you're wrong". But merely to present an opposing view, a difference of opinion, and possibly a closer understanding of a mysterious, complex component.

MAF Screen Removal

The Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor is located between the air filter assembly and the intake Bellows, and it's name implies it's function. It measures the amount (mass) of air entering the engine during operation, and uses this information to (in part) determine the correct air/fuel mixture for the conditions.

The MAF is an excellent sensor in that it has the ability to measure four different characteristics of the incoming air simultaneously: temperature, pressure, volume, and humidity. This ability give the fuel management system remarkable flexibility and adaptability. One drawback, however is the MAF represents a significant restriction to air flow into the engine. In stock trim the MAF can flow around 529 cfm maximum - OK for stock applications, but not if any modifications are performed.

The major restriction is the "debris screen". It is meant to protect the delicate heated wire, but to you its purpose is to keep your car from GOING FASTER.

Fortunately, there is a relatively simple modification that can be done to net larger gains in air flow - up to 180 cfm in most cases, and usually more.

Before we begin, see the CMA statement again: located on the main mods page.

First unplug the MAF, and remove it from the car. Place the sensor on a firm, flat surface. You will notice that the screen is held in with a metal or plastic ring that is glued or fitted into a bore (grove) on the wall of the MAF housing. Using a sharp tool of some type (small knife or screwdriver) work under the ring until you can wedge the tool between the ring and the bore. Take your time - it is very easy to slip and damage something. Then, work your way around the ring, carefully prying it away. The metal ring will just pop out and the plastic one may crack. At this point you will know you've won this round.Next, use the tool to work the screen out in a way similar to the ring. This shouldn't be difficult. Simple, eh? You can use the tool to carefully remove any pieces of the plastic ring or glue that might be left stuck in the MAF.

Some OE MAFs may have two screens, so do the same procedure on both ends. Some after market MAF units have only one screen.

You've just gained about 180 cfm in about 10 minutes or less. And most of that time will be spent putting the air box back together.

No noticeable power gain was detected. But there was a slight increase in exhaust tone at ideal and throttle and I seem to be getting better gas mileage

5.3LSilverado01 · September 3, 2002

I already removed my screen, no code and I noticed a tiny but of top end inprovment. And if i drop something in there, then I deserve a $100 fine... I'm going to gut the fins next.

I orded them from Auto Zone. I'm sure they'll work on a 6.0L, but ask the guy there and they'll look it up. There just new plug wires. No tools needed, but maybe a $2 pair of plug wire pullers.

I know about the pump thing, said that a few weeks back. I know that thas not exact, but when I put over a 100miles a day going and coming from work, I get a lot of time watching the mpg and at night it was around 30, and its a 70mph all the way with more than a few hills and sharp "55mph" turns, and I've noticed an improvment with these plugs. Houston to Brenham is pretty much flat as can be till about 19 miles from brenham.

kwf1 · September 4, 2002

I don't think you can accurately measure MPG by judging the gas gauge needle. You need to fill the tank to the max--(to the point the gas is visible in the filler neck and does not go down) before and after the trip and then divide miles traveled by gallons consumed.

Dihappy · September 5, 2002

I don't think you can accurately measure MPG by judging the gas gauge needle. You need to fill the tank to the max--(to the point the gas is visible in the filler neck and does not go down) before and after the trip and then divide miles traveled by gallons consumed.

I agree, theres no way of knowing if your within a gallon or two by watching the needle.

If you got 30 somthing mpg congrats, your the first ive ever read about