Jump to content

Why No Afm ?


Recommended Posts

Posted

Last Sunday I took a 250 mile trip in my 07. When I got closer to my destination, the AFM quit kicking in. The last 70 miles or so were between 45 and 65 MPH. The closer to the destination, the less often the AFM would come on. Is there anything any reason that the AFM should not continue to work? The engine temps and trans temps all seemed normal. As a matter of fact trans temps had dropped for the last part of the trip compared to the interstate driving.

 

Anything ideas about the AFM. I did manage to get 18.0 MPG out of the truck for the trip though.

Posted

if it s like my 09 it will only kick in while in the highest gear. (which is 6th for me). If it s under any type of load, such as hills or added weight it won t go into 4 mode. Maybe you had it locked out of OD? By the way, I had mine turned off on my 2007 and again on my 2009. It did nothing for my mileage.

Posted

Thanks for the reply Mark. It just seemed to go away completely near the end of the trip is what is puzzling me. I have no idea if my truck was going into OD during those times but, I was off the gas and it still didn't kick in.

Posted

Check your tow/haul switch. Remember reading AFM gets locked out while in tow mode. It is very odd to not have AFM cycle. Mine is very sensitive to any added load (A/C, grades, weight, headwinds, speed, etc...) but this is odd.

Posted
a f m stiil works in tow haul mode believe me been there done that..

 

I verified that when I test drove a 2008 truck with the 5.3 liter engine.

Posted

As I recall correctly, the factory parameters for AFM disable it if certain parameters such as speed, gear, trans temp, and coolant temp are met. Perhaps something just got warm or your foot got heavier toward the end of the trip?

Posted

I've found with my old 07 5.3 that going up the slightest of hill would cause it to go back into 8 CYL mode. Even the slightest of hill. Of course, there is no flat land out here in Colorado unless you go east far enough.

Posted

Tomorrow afternoon, I make the 250 mile trip back home. When I get home, I am going to check the trans fluid and make sure it is back where it is supposed to be. Its been a while since I have checked an auto trans, still check it with warm fluid in park, idling? My last DD was a manual.

 

I will update the thread with what happens with the AFM. The last 10 miles are mostly coming down a long grade.

Posted

I checked the fluid this morning after driving 10 miles to work. Fluid level was in the area between cold and hot levels, so I took that as good. Started the 250 mile trip home and kept an eye on AFM activity. Seems the hotter the trans the less active AFM is. The highest I ever saw trans temp was around 176 or so with outside temps around 96. Closer to my house and 230 miles later the outside temp was around 85 and the trans temps had dropped to around 160. AFM seemed to be coming on more often and staying around longer.

 

Is there a tutorial about what makes AFM function? I guess I need to get out there and scan my truck with HP Tuners and see what I can see there too. I just wish I knew enough about HP Tuners to do some real good with it. I bought it for the 70 LS conversion and have never really played that much with it.

Posted
Is there a tutorial about what makes AFM function? I guess I need to get out there and scan my truck with HP Tuners and see what I can see there too. I just wish I knew enough about HP Tuners to do some real good with it. I bought it for the 70 LS conversion and have never really played that much with it.

 

 

Cylinder Deactivation Inhibit Reasons

Listed below are the powertrain conditions that will inhibit V4 mode, while operating under light load driving conditions:

 

• Engine manifold vacuum low

 

• Brake booster vacuum pressure low

 

• Accelerator pedal position rate of increase too high, electronic throttle control

 

• Accelerator pedal position too high, electronic throttle control

 

• Ignition voltage out of range

 

• Engine oil pressure out of range

 

• Engine oil temperature out of range

 

• Engine RPM out of range

 

• Transmission gear incorrect

 

• Transmission range incorrect

 

• Transmission gear shift in progress

 

• All cylinders activated via scan tool output control

 

• Minimum time in V8 mode not met

 

• Maximum V4 mode time exceeded

 

• Engine oil aeration present

 

• Decel fuel cutoff active

 

• Fuel shut-off timer active

 

• Minimum heater temp low, HVAC system

 

• Reduced engine power active, electronic throttle control

 

• Brake torque management active

 

• Axle torque limiting active

 

• Engine metal over temperature protection active

 

• Catalytic converter over temperature protection active

 

• Piston protection active, knock detected

 

• Hot coolant mode active

 

• Engine over speed protection active

 

• Fault Active or Fault Pending--cylinder deactivation is disabled for the following faults:

 

- Brake Booster Vacuum Sensor

 

- Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor

 

- Engine Oil Pressure Sensor

 

- Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor

 

- Vehicle Speed Sensor

 

- Crankshaft Position Sensor

 

- Engine Misfire Detected

 

- Cylinder Deactivation Solenoid Driver Circuit

Posted

Once I've noticed that my AFM stopped working on my way to work one morning. On the way home that afternoon, everything was back to normal. Strange..

Posted

Mine seemed to work correctly on the way back home but I thought it was due in part to the high temps outside. It is supposed to be very warm on Sunday going back so I will see what happens this time.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • sorry to bump an old thread, im a bit clueless with this stuff, would these fit a 2019+ Silverado? https://wiperpro.com.au/products/chevrolet-silverado-wiper-blades mainly wondering if the beam shape stays planted at highway speed, thats what seems to let the factory ones down imo
    • I have a 2018 Silverado Custom with 156k on the odometer. In the last month I've replaced the plugs, wires and the driver side engine mount. My wife just returned from a trip of about 1500 miles and told me the brakes are making a grinding noise when applied. I drove it and looked it over and this is what I found with the driver's side rear rotor.   I'm going to order new pads and check about having the rotor resurfaced. Hopefully this is easier than the last 2 jobs.   Peace  
    • Any update if the new valve cover help with the oil consumption?  I have a 2014 GMC sierra and my truck is consuming a lot of oil so I’m wondering if replacing the driver side valve cover will stop some of the oil consumption. Thanks 
    • I bought belts and pulleys for my '20 L5P at Rock Auto a couple years ago. I have used them for many years, and almost always save significant money, especially when I buy maintenance stuff ahead of time.   They carry many OEM parts, which is all I use unless an aftermarket is shown to be same/superior, or if it is an insignificant part or unavailable OEM part anywhere else. RA is usually lower priced, often by a bunch, but parts are sometimes unavailable or out of stock, and I do shop around and sometimes find better prices at other sites.   Be aware that you pay shipping, and if you buy multiple items and they are coming from different warehouses, the shipping can kill the advantage. Planning ahead is best if possible.   If you have a transmission service in the near future, check out their OEM (AC Delco ULV) fluid, usually MUCH less than anywhere else.
    • New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...