Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Background: I recently purchased a non-running 2003 Chevy Silverado 2500HD 4x4 ext cab with the 6.0 and I've been working to diagnose the problem. I have no signal on the Class 2 serial data line, thus no communication with a code scanner. Following the troubleshooting steps I have isolated the BCM from all other modules on the data line and still have no communication with the BCM. I have checked the wiring for opens, shorts to ground or power, or high resistance and the wiring seems to be fine. So the next step in the troubleshooting procedure is to replace the BCM. GM dealer wants $257 for a new BCM and minimum $90 charge for programming it. Says I have to install the module then bring the truck in to be programmed.

 

Now the questions: If I buy a new BCM through GM and install it, will the truck start and run off the blank un-programmed BCM so I can drive it to the dealer for programming? If that won't work, I can get a used BCM for $75 - will the truck start and run off the used BCM with non-matching VIN (after passlock re-learn)? Can the used BCM then be re-programmed at the dealer to have the proper VIN info and match my truck?

 

Thanks for any help.

Posted

Have you checked to see if the cig. lighter has power. If that fuse is blown, you'll get no communication from the port.

Posted

Yes, I have verified that. All fuses are good. I have ground at DLC pins 4 and 5 and I have positive voltage at pin 16. Scan tool powers up, but does not communicate. I have also already replaced the ignition switch and nuetral safety switch (PNP) and verified good battery and cables/connections.

Posted (edited)

So you can't connect with the PCM either? Each device is connected independent of each other. The BCM is not what is preventing it from starting.

Edited by Jennabear
Posted
So you can't connect with the PCM either? Each device is connected independent of each other. The BCM is not what is preventing it from starting.

 

I'm just following the diagnostic procedure in my repair manual. It says the bcm is the Power Mode Master (PMM) and controls all other modules including the pcm (on my truck anyway). The wiring diagrams show there is no direct link between the pcm and the diagnostic link connector, it shows the pcm connects directly to the bcm which then connects to the dlc. The bcm is what receives the ignition switch signal and sends out the signals to all other modules to activate. So if the bcm is dead and sends no signal to anything, the truck would not start. Which means the bcm is what is preventing my truck from starting - according to my repair manual.

 

Believe me, I've been all over this truck checking things and testing. At this point my next step is to replace the bcm. But, I need to know about programming the replacement bcm as I asked above to know what to expect.

I have three possible scenarios:

1)I buy a new replacement bcm from my gm dealer, install it, start the truck and drive it to the dealer for programming.

2)I buy a new replacement bcm from my gm dealer, install it, the truck won't start, I have it towed to the dealer for programming.

3)I buy a used replacement bcm from the salvage yard, install it, start the truck and drive it to the dealer for programming.

 

I'm just looking for info from someone who knows for sure which of those scenarios is realistic.

 

Thanks again

Posted (edited)
So you can't connect with the PCM either? Each device is connected independent of each other. The BCM is not what is preventing it from starting.

 

I'm just following the diagnostic procedure in my repair manual. It says the bcm is the Power Mode Master (PMM) and controls all other modules including the pcm (on my truck anyway).

I think your manual is for a newer vehicle, power mode mastering was not used on chevy trucks till 05-06.

The wiring diagrams show there is no direct link between the pcm and the diagnostic link connector, it shows the pcm connects directly to the bcm which then connects to the dlc.

That is the second clue that the manual is wrong. The diagram should show the bcm and pcm in a loop to a splice pack then to the dlc. The way your truck should be wired is that the bcm and pcm are wired togeather then they have independant circuits back to the dlc so that either module can communicate with the scan tool independant of the other.

The bcm is what receives the ignition switch signal and sends out the signals to all other modules to activate. So if the bcm is dead and sends no signal to anything, the truck would not start. Which means the bcm is what is preventing my truck from starting - according to my repair manual.

Again on an 07 this would be true but not on an 03. The truck will not start without the bcm because of the security but it does not send out the on signal for the other modules like a new one would.

 

Believe me, I've been all over this truck checking things and testing. At this point my next step is to replace the bcm. But, I need to know about programming the replacement bcm as I asked above to know what to expect.

I have three possible scenarios: All that said if you still want to go with the bcm I'll tell you what I know. You could get lucky and need the bcm but I wouldn't put money on it (which you are).

1)I buy a new replacement bcm from my gm dealer, install it, start the truck and drive it to the dealer for programming.

 

You could do this, you will have to program the security code first. Then drive it in to have the RPO's programmed in the BCM.

 

 

  1. 1 Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.

     

 

  1. 2 Attempt to start the engine, then release the key to ON; the vehicle will not start.

     

 

  1. 3 Observe the SECURITY telltale; after approximately 10 minutes the telltale will turn OFF.

     

 

  1. 4 Turn OFF the ignition, and wait 5 seconds.

     

 

  1. 5 Repeat steps 1 through 4 two more times for a total of 3 cycles/30 minutes; the vehicle is now ready to relearn the Passlock Sensor Data Code and/or passwords on the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK.

     

 

  1. Important: The vehicle learns the Passlock Sensor Data Code and/or password on the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK. You must turn the ignition OFF before attempting to start the vehicle.

     

    Start the engine. The vehicle has now learned the Passlock Sensor Data Code and/or password.

     

With a scan tool, clear any DTCs, if needed. History DTCs will self clear after 100 ignition cycles.

 

2)I buy a new replacement bcm from my gm dealer, install it, the truck won't start, I have it towed to the dealer for programming.

Follow the above and you should be able to drive it in.

3)I buy a used replacement bcm from the salvage yard, install it, start the truck and drive it to the dealer for programming.

You can try this and try the above but I wouldn't know if it would work or not. All year, make and model bcm's are a little different and without trying this on your particular make and model. If you can get the security to work the RPO's might not be able to be programmed, it's really just trial and error with this method.

 

I'm just looking for info from someone who knows for sure which of those scenarios is realistic.

 

Thanks again

Edited by sparkstech
  • 6 months later...
Posted

I have the same problem with my 2002 LTZ Trail Blazer. My mother has a 2002 LS I took her BCM out and put it in my 2002 LTZ and did the key learn and my2002 LTZ started right on up. So I went to the junk yard and got a BCM from a newer TrailBlazer did the learn key and it started. I let it run for about six minutes and it stopped. I tried to put my mother's BCM back in and it will not start. I think I burned something out. Any help would be appericated

Posted
I have the same problem with my 2002 LTZ Trail Blazer. My mother has a 2002 LS I took her BCM out and put it in my 2002 LTZ and did the key learn and my2002 LTZ started right on up. So I went to the junk yard and got a BCM from a newer TrailBlazer did the learn key and it started. I let it run for about six minutes and it stopped. I tried to put my mother's BCM back in and it will not start. I think I burned something out. Any help would be appericated

 

 

I suggest that you open a new thread and ask your question rather than hijacking this one... OP is looking for help for his problem, not yours...

Posted

What sense would that make to start a new thread if we have the same problem? Maybe he can help me by sharing his experience with this problem. No hijacking intended. If you cannot help shut up!

Posted (edited)

Kindly don't tell people to shut up. It kinda rubs people the wrong way sometimes......You've made me decide to leave this thread without helping you. G'bye. :(

 

BTW, the OP hasn't been here since August 24th, 2010. So doubt he'll be any help

Edited by txab
Posted

the op wont help u as this thread was over in Aug,

 

take it to the dealer,no one will help u now ,,,bye bye

Posted

Well he got under my skin accusing me of hijacking a thread. If he could not or would not help then he should keep his negative comments to him self. My intent was to seek help nothing more! From the response I see a few of you take exception with me telling him to shut up, well you few can shut up also. OK, so you will not help, fine, in all probability you could not. The information on the thread was a big help anyway.

Posted (edited)
What sense would that make to start a new thread if we have the same problem? Maybe he can help me by sharing his experience with this problem. No hijacking intended. If you cannot help shut up!

 

 

I suggested that you start a new thread since a 2002 Trail Blazer is not a 2003 Silverado and the problem is not the same and so on. I see by your attitude that you got all the help you need. I have a Haynes manual that you can have if it will help.

 

btw, your problem is not the same as the original poster, his is fixed, yours is not!

Edited by Hawkeye-08
Posted

Your are correct! Not the same Vehicle, but the same principles. I do not have an attitude, but I will not allow anyone to chastise me in a degrading tone for something so trivial. This is all I will have to say about this. If members thing I have an attitude or have done something wrong then do not bother to reply I have heard enough. I get the picture. Those that want to help thank you. Maybe I should have started my own thread but his problem was so much like mine and I asked a question. Do not mean for this to get out of hand with a few members.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I have a `25, 1500 that auto sets on incline. Never knew that at first. I have the electronic shifter. Just think if it didn`t do that? Unlike a mechanical shift that you can muscle out of park, how would you get this thing out? That would be a problem.   What I found out later is, I don`t have to push the button to release. Just put it in gear.   Setting parameters? Don`t know if it`s possible.
    • 2023 GMC 3500 HD, SLE, 6.6L Gas, 4x4, 6 Spd Options:  SLE Convenience Package; Driver Alert Package 1; Spray on Bedliner; X31 Off Road Package; TRAILERING MIRRORS, HEATED POWER -ADJUSTABLE, AUTO DIMMING, WITH TURN INDICATORS WHEELHOUSE LINERS, REAR INC. REAR AXLE - 3.73 RATIO INC. GVWR, 11,350 LBS. (5148 KG) INC. FRONT AND REAR PARK ASSIST, INC. ULTRASONIC     I have been launching my new boat and noticed some things related to the parking brake.. I usually set the parking brake (habit) when on flat ground for typical driving.    When backed down on the launch ramp to launch the boat and I place gear selector into Park, the parking brake activates automatically. My second nature is to set parking brake manually and noticed I was turing the parking brake off.  The parking brake appears to be setting itself automatically.   I looked all over my owner's manual and only found references to being on an incline and manually setting parking brake, or at times parking brake will be auto engaged, but nothing specific to my situation.    When is the parking brake automatically engaged?  Under what specific circumstances?  Can the auto set parameters be changed?     I like the auto set feature.  It would be nice if always engaged when shifted into Park and released when shifted out of Park (like my wifes 2025 RAV4).   Thanks!    
    • www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...