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2010 Silverado Amp Installation With Oem Headunit

ksutton24

By ksutton24
in Audio, Electronics & Software

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ksutton24 New Member

ksutton24

Posted
Posted

HI All!

 

I am hoping to get some information on Amp installation in the 2010 Silverado Crew Cab 4x4.

 

I have two amps: Kicker amp running the front and rear speakers. I have wired those into the radio harness. This loom of wires also includes the remote for the amp, that is connected as well. The door speakers are working fine, except the chimes and turn signals are extremly loud. How can I fix that ?

 

I have a Kenwood amp that will be powering my two 10" subs. I have a power distrubution blcok and a ground distribution box. This amp is getting power, but will not turn on.....

 

I have two PAC 1:10 reduction adaptors wired into the harness as well, with the RCA cables leading back to the kicker amp, which then feeds over to the kenwood.

 

Is there a different way of setting this up, so the chimes and turn signals are not so loud and any advice on why the Kenwood is not working correctly?

zcs626 Enthusiast

zcs626

Posted
Posted

here's another question too: how do you turn off the door chime/turn signal clicks without changing the OEM head unit? Its just annoying and I wish it would just be gone totally.

Chris Senior Enthusiast

Chris

Posted
Posted

that one i dont know i have a different body style than you. and i got rid of my complete stock audio system 2 months after i bought the truck

kalashluvr Enthusiast

kalashluvr

Posted
Posted
I am keeping my OEM headunit.

 

Do you have any recommendations for a particular "chime box"? Where do you connect this box?

 

When keeping the factory head unit, the only way I got rid of the chimes and loud blinkers was to split the rear signal out of the headunit/PAC converter, and go into the amp that way. I lost the ability to use the bluetooth connection though because the front speaker is where the audio comes out for that.

 

I replaced the head unit with aftermarket this weekend, and used the GM-LAN interface to keep my factory harness intact. Now I have very low chimes and blinkers back.

 

I don't know of another way to get the volume down though and keep the factory head unit.

  • 2 weeks later...
rjdfico Enthusiast

rjdfico

Posted
Posted

I think im going to take the signal from (head unit) rear speakers and run that through the hi level input of my amp, then from the amp to my component front speakers. I am going to use the signal from the (head unit) front speakers and run that to the rear speakers. This way it should eliminate the loud chimes and send the stock signal to the rear speakers. Of course the rears will only be factory amplified but they are used as fill anyway. I currently have the factory sub removed and a subthump box with 2 10's getting about 600w thown at them. The bass is way too much for the factory mids and highs. :uhoh:

  • 1 year later...
cleanupman1645 New Member

cleanupman1645

Posted
Posted

has anyone determined if you can mute the chime? I have a 2008 Silveardo and did the same thing. I wanted to keep my factory radio (for several reasons) but wanted a better sound so I installed Boston Accoustic speakers and a 4x45watt Alpine head unit amp to power the speakers. Now everytime i need to turn the turn signal is yelling at me. is it possible to turn this down or mute this?

  • 2 weeks later...
Texas_Edition Enthusiast

Texas_Edition

Posted
Posted

<p>I recommend using a DSP such as a Rockford Fosgate 3Sixty.1, 3Sixty.2 or the newest model, the 3Sixty.3. You can open up the circuit board and change a jumper to when the speaker wires, the ones that go to your speakers, receive a signal, the remote wire sends a signal to your amps. I have ran a 3Sixty.1 for years. It has visited about 4 different vehicle's and is about to go into a friends vehicle. Works great. Set everything up via Bluetooth from a Windows Mobile Phone, Palm Pilot and a Blackberry IIRC. I have always used my laptop since I always have an Android. If your computer does not have Bluetooth built in, you can get a Bluetooth device that plugs into your USB and it only sticks out about 3/8's of an inch.It's also a Digital Sound Processor so it converts Analog signals to Digital signals. You can make many adjustments. Basically you take your front and left negative and positive speaker wires that are sent to your front speakers and run it to the 3Sixty. You can also do the rear if you want the fade feature from your stereo, but if you are running an amp for all of your speakers, you can make gain adjustments from there. The 3Sixty.1 has the functionality of summing the front left and right channels to the front, left, center and subwoofer. It separates the signals so your highs go to your tweeters, mids go to your mids and lows go to your subwoofers. Very easy to use. Let me know if you have any questions.

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