Jump to content

Light Fogginess Inside Of Headlight?

mtsusa

Recommended Posts

mtsusa Enthusiast

mtsusa

Posted
Posted

So after my hid/projector retrofit I noticed a very light amount of cloudiness on the bottom half of each headlamp. It forms after the headlights go off and goes away after a few hours. I know the silicon seal around the lens is good, but I noticed a bit of light leakage on the back with the low beams.

 

I planned on removing the headlights and bulbs, blowing hot air into the bottom hole and letting it escape out of the top to dry it out, sealing the rubber caps and around the new H1 bi xenon bulb, installing the HID bulb, and using a vacuum on the high beam hole to remove any moisture that could've been introduced with the heat as water vapor.

 

Make any sense? Sound reasonable? Anyone have anything better to offer?

Z71-K9 Enthusiast

Z71-K9

Posted
Posted

Had the same issue with factory lights. I mentioned to my service manager. Replaced under warranty with no questions. My truck had over 36000 on it and it still was no issue. I believe there is a TSB on the problem.

herkdriver007 Enthusiast

herkdriver007

Posted
Posted

Are you sure you have a good seal? I would go back with the silicone and hit it again. the lamps when on are creating enough heat to get rid of the moisture, when not on it will build up.

 

No problems with mine, but i was extremely meticulous when sealing them up.

peterarch Enthusiast

peterarch

Posted
Posted

Just check your seals again and make sure, whenever I do emergency light installs in vehicles/put strobes in factory headlights, taillights, foglights, eveything gets a generous coating of silicone where the hole was made, if it fogs up, i take it all out, put it in a nice warm, very dry place for a couple hours and then reseal everything.

mtsusa Enthusiast

mtsusa

Posted
  • Author
Posted

See I was extremely meticulous too when I sealed the lens, if I look inside both lights with a flashlight I see the slight silicon seepage into the assembly and I ran 3 separate beads on the outside, so I know that wasn't the issue.

 

Doug, yes, there was no moisture when the lights were on, it was when I turned them off...and then it went away after a couple of hours. No visible water or anything, just the slightest cloudy look on the inside. I noticed that my lights are different than yours and I'm assuming the seals are different, because when mine were on I noticed a decent amount of light leaking out of the rear...and I have all my brackets/clips etc. done right. So that got a generous bit of silicon.

 

So far everything's back on and it looks good, thanks for all the replies. I'll be able to tell for sure when I drive it tonight.

herkdriver007 Enthusiast

herkdriver007

Posted
Posted

Our lights are different? How so?? Just curious, since I thought all Silverado-900s were the same... Might help the next guys attempting this project....

mtsusa Enthusiast

mtsusa

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Sorry man I should've clarified myself. Yes we have the same size light (H1) but you must have a different brand or something of bulb, yours appears to have a bigger rear seal. I'll have to take a pic of mine to illustrate that.

herkdriver007 Enthusiast

herkdriver007

Posted
Posted

Ahh okay... You did use that little rubber washer included in the kit, right? I just cant see how the base of the bulb wouldnt cover enough of the housing. Snap a pic if you can

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • mysery1
      What have you done to your K2 today?

      By mysery1 · Posted

      I have a 2018 Silverado Custom with 156k on the odometer. In the last month I've replaced the plugs, wires and the driver side engine mount. My wife just returned from a trip of about 1500 miles and told me the brakes are making a grinding noise when applied. I drove it and looked it over and this is what I found with the driver's side rear rotor.   I'm going to order new pads and check about having the rotor resurfaced. Hopefully this is easier than the last 2 jobs.   Peace  
    • FiLo
      5.3 / 6.2 valve covers / oil burning

      By FiLo · Posted

      Any update if the new valve cover help with the oil consumption?  I have a 2014 GMC sierra and my truck is consuming a lot of oil so I’m wondering if replacing the driver side valve cover will stop some of the oil consumption. Thanks 
    • Deadwood
      primary drive belt tensioner

      By Deadwood · Posted

      I bought belts and pulleys for my '20 L5P at Rock Auto a couple years ago. I have used them for many years, and almost always save significant money, especially when I buy maintenance stuff ahead of time.   They carry many OEM parts, which is all I use unless an aftermarket is shown to be same/superior, or if it is an insignificant part or unavailable OEM part anywhere else. RA is usually lower priced, often by a bunch, but parts are sometimes unavailable or out of stock, and I do shop around and sometimes find better prices at other sites.   Be aware that you pay shipping, and if you buy multiple items and they are coming from different warehouses, the shipping can kill the advantage. Planning ahead is best if possible.   If you have a transmission service in the near future, check out their OEM (AC Delco ULV) fluid, usually MUCH less than anywhere else.
    • Deadwood
      10L1000 anyone with High Mileage ? I hate Damocles....

      By Deadwood · Posted

      New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
    • swathdiver
      6 Speed vs 8 Speed

      By swathdiver · Posted

      At peak temperature.  They get to cool down and warm up more, especially those with the external cooler.  I have three GMT900s and one of them has over 225K on its original transmission.  Fluid gets changed about every 36K miles, all of it.     It's not the bean counters, it was the government.  They had to meet CAFE standards and other government requirements.   To get around that, we tune them and modify them to our liking.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...