Installing Amp And Sub In Bose System

cghbuilder86 · November 9, 2010

I have done a ton of research on this and I think I have finally figured it out, maybe? In order to get my stereo out plugs for my amp I plan on buying the PAC AOEM-GM24. It is an interface that plugs into the factory head unit to give me the RCA outs.

I understand that plugging it in behind the head unit should give me a clean signal that is unprocessed by the bose amp. So far I think this setup is supposed to work pretty good. I have heard that the bose system will sometimes decrease the amount of bass as the volume is turned up to prevent damage. But I think taking the clean signal from the headunit will solve that problem. Also, I think the bose subwoofer will still be working and everything should be easily reverseable incase something was not right. Correct me if I am wrong in any of that?

But here is my main question, I have a USA Spec PA-15GM Ipod interface. It is plugged into the bose head unit and works great.

Do you think it will work to have both interfaces connected to the bose system? I mean the plugs should all match up and have no problems there. But I have the USA spec Ipod interface and also need to add the PAC interface to give me the RCA line outs for the amp/sub. I am just really wanting to know because I don't want to invest in a bunch of equipment and start an install just to find out I have major problems. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Also, which one should be connected first. Bose+Ipod interface+PAC interface? Or Bose+pac interface+Ipod interface?

icetraxx · November 9, 2010

It might help if you let us know what year truck you have. I have an 08 nnbs with bose. All inputs to the bose amp are low level line outs. I tapped those for my sub and component amps. This was all in the center console.

jdubya · November 9, 2010

Are you just planning on adding a sub to the existing system or are you adding a 4 channel amp as well?

As far as those modules working together it is tough to say. Sometimes when you connect multiple devices together like that you introduce interference into the system resulting in poor sound quality. You could either contact the manuf and ask them or just plug it in to see what happens. I think this would be the cleanest set up if you could get them to work together.

I am not sure about if the Bose system adjusts the bass volume automatically at higher volumes, I wouldn't expect the amp to do that but maybe the head unit. You could put a meter on the sub and then crank up the volume on the stereo to see if it actually maxes out or if you just hear it that way. I am curious to see how Larry above connected his RCA's between the headunit and the amp. If it is already a low level output and you put a line level adjuster on it you wouldn't get much sound out of your amp....

cghbuilder86 · November 9, 2010

It is an "04 silverado.

Yes I am only wanting to add a mono amp and sub. I like the rest of the system the way it is. Just need some more bass and low end.

I figure I will end up just have to plug in the PAC interface and see how it works. Both manufactures would probably just say they don't know how it would work with equipment they didn't make or design it for. The only bad thing to this is not sure if I can return the $50 interface if it doesn't work. I decided I would test it with my brother amp and sub before I buy my own though. Going today to talk with the only audio installer guy around these parts. See if he has any input or helpful info.

I have heard of people tapping into the wiring in the console. I am afraid to do it though. I read mixed results on this. Some good and some bad. And it seems a little complicated for me. I'd rather have plugs that I can hook up if possible. I'd hate cutting and splicing into that mess of wires in the console.

jdubya · November 9, 2010

using a line level converter is not complicated at all but you just need to make sure that you are using a high level output such as a speaker wire. I am not sure how it would work on a low level coming out of the Headunit, I am only assuming it would be bad.

thecraft · November 10, 2010

The OEM-1 shouldn't cause any conflict with the PA-15GM, but I would connect the OEM-1 harness behind the PA-15GM harness, starting from the radio.

However, I think the OEM-1 might not might not work for you because the output from the radio to the Bose amp is already low level. Can you buy that harness separate without the converter? Then you could just splice the RCA jacks onto the wiring and not have to modify or tap into factory wiring.

cghbuilder86 · November 11, 2010

The OEM-1 shouldn't cause any conflict with the PA-15GM, but I would connect the OEM-1 harness behind the PA-15GM harness, starting from the radio.

However, I think the OEM-1 might not might not work for you because the output from the radio to the Bose amp is already low level. Can you buy that harness separate without the converter? Then you could just splice the RCA jacks onto the wiring and not have to modify or tap into factory wiring.

Thanks for the reply I also just got a reply email from PAC saying that it PAC AOEM-GM24should work with the pa15 because it is a pass though design. But what do you mean without the converter? I included the link if you need to look at it. I don't see anything about it converting to low level. I just put in my truck and it pulls this up as a compatible product and says it is design to allow adding a new amp to factory premium sound systems. I think it also has level and gain contols on it. When I put in my truck on the website this is the only one that pulls up to work with my truck for this type of application. But I know you can find older ones and different one that splice on amazon and stuff. Let me know though if I am missing something about this level converting? Cause I though it was just a box to give me RCA outputs?

Thanks

thecraft · November 16, 2010

Sorry I missed this earlier. My concern was that because the output from the headunit to the Bose amp is already low-level, using a line-output-converter would make the output to the aftermarket amp extremely low.

However I looked at the instruction manual for the OEM1, it's a little vague but it sounds like it is compatible with low-level input, so you should be okay.