Battery Add A Second One 2007 Denali

[JoJoJim]

Our 2007 Denali runs the battery down very quickly if the engine is not running but possible using the electric tailgate and radio. I know it could have been ordered with a second battery from the factory. Since the 2nd tray is already there can I make this as simple as just running a cable positive to positive between batteries and find a place to ground the second battery. What am I not thinking about?

thanks,

[Diesail]

Yes it is that simple. Your easiest point to run the second cable to is the starter. It's right there by the location of the second battery.

[LeoS41280]

Our 2007 Denali runs the battery down very quickly if the engine is not running but possible using the electric tailgate and radio. I know it could have been ordered with a second battery from the factory. Since the 2nd tray is already there can I make this as simple as just running a cable positive to positive between batteries and find a place to ground the second battery. What am I not thinking about?

thanks,

I bet your battery is weak. Have someone do a load test on it.

[JoJoJim]

Our 2007 Denali runs the battery down very quickly if the engine is not running but possible using the electric tailgate and radio. I know it could have been ordered with a second battery from the factory. Since the 2nd tray is already there can I make this as simple as just running a cable positive to positive between batteries and find a place to ground the second battery. What am I not thinking about?

thanks,

I bet your battery is weak. Have someone do a load test on it.

 

I did have it checked and told it was good. It is on a 650 cca battery and told where it is located cannot put a larger one in that position.

[sonjaab]

There is a TSB out there for a dead battery issue with the GMT-900s.

Maybe yours is one of them......Mine was!

 

Document ID# 2009971

2007 Chevrolet Silverado - 4WD

 

Subject: Intermittent Low Battery Voltage, Engine Will Not Crank, Cranks But Will Not Start, Charging System Light On, Service Battery Charging System Message DIsplayed, DTC B1405, B1516 Set (Reprogram BCM) #06-06-03-013B - (09/11/2007)

 

Models: 2007 Cadillac Escalade Models

2007 Chevrolet Avalanche, Silverado, Suburban, Tahoe

2007 GMC Sierra, Yukon Models

1500 and 2500 Series Vehicles Only

 

This bulletin is being revised to add step 11 to the Additional Diagnostic Tips section. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 06-06-03-013A (Section 06 -- Engine/Propulsion System).

Condition

Some customers may comment of one or more of the following conditions:

• Charging system light on

• Service battery charging system message displayed

• Intermittent low battery voltage

• Vehicle will not crank

• Vehicle cranks but will not start

• Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) B1405 and/or B1516 may be set

 

Cause:

This condition may be caused by Body Control Module (BCM) calibrations that create a lower battery state of charge than intended in low electrical power usage modes.

 

Correction:

Do This: Reprogram the BCM

Don't Do This:Do NOT replace the BCM or battery current sensor.

 

 

A revised calibration has been developed to address these conditions. Technicians are to reprogram the BCM using SPS with the latest software available on TIS2WEB. Refer to the Body Control Module Programming and Setup procedure in SI (Document ID# 1741198). As always make sure your Tech 2® is updated with the latest software version.

 

Additional Diagnostic Tips

Usually if a vehicle will start and then not start in a very short period of time, the condition may be created by a loose or corroded connection. In most situations a battery in a good state of health cannot be drained within minutes without a major and most likely very obvious short. The following items are also possible areas of starting and charging system concerns and should be considered as a part of your diagnosis. For more information refer to the Symptoms -- Engine Electrical diagnostic procedure in SI (Document ID# 1703276).

 

Verify the battery cable connections. It is possible for the negative or positive terminal connector nut to tighten without making a good electrical connection on the battery terminal. The top of the negative battery post should be slightly above the top of the cable clamp.

Verify the battery condition and state of charge using the Midtronics tester and a VAT40 or equivalent tester. Refer to the following diagnostic procedures in SI for additional information.

• Battery Common Causes of Malfunction (Document ID# 1703244)

 

• Battery Inspection/Test (Document (ID# 1703241)

 

• Battery Charging (Document ID# 1703243)

 

Verify proper operation of the charging system. Refer to the Charging System Test procedure in SI (Document ID# 1703783).

Verify that the vehicle does not have a parasitic battery drain. Refer to the Battery Electrical Drain/Parasitic Load Test procedure in SI (Document ID# 1741191).

Verify that the front and/or rear Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning (HVAC) blower motor turns off with the key in the OFF position. If the blower motor stays on, refer to the Blower Motor Always On diagnostic procedure in SI (Document ID# 1701247).

Ask the customer if they use the accessories (Radio, DVD player, etc.) with the key in the ON position but with the engine off. This may contribute to a low battery state of charge and difficulty cranking the engine. If the customer uses their accessories with the engine off ask them to turn the key to the ACC position instead of the ON position.

If the vehicle is equipped with aftermarket accessories, verify that they are not a source of concern. Remove or disable if necessary and retest the vehicle. Refer to the Checking Aftermarket Accessories procedure in SI (Document ID# 816776).

Verify that there are no loose connections at the 175 amp mega fuse.

Verify that the Retained Accessory Power (RAP) system is operating properly. The radio and accessories should shut off once the key is removed from the ignition and the driver's door is opened. For more information refer to the Retained Accessory Power (RAP) Malfunction procedure in SI (Document ID# 1776533).

Refer to the following Bulletins and PIs for additional areas of concern.

• A fuel pump relay sticking concern. Refer to Corporate Bulletin number 06-06-03-011B.

 

• An ignition switch concern and a loss of GM LAN data due to an unwanted ground. Refer to Corporate Bulletin 06-08-45-010.

 

• A rear door lock relay sticking concern. Refer to Preliminary Information bulletin PIT3984 (Document ID# 1820437).

 

Check circuit 1240 (Red/White wire) for a short to ground in the driver side or circuit 1340 (Red/White wire) passenger side "B" pillar area near the seat belt retractor. See Document ID# 1740425 for a copy of the wiring diagram for circuit 1240 that goes to the driver side and circuit 1340 that goes to the passenger side windows.

Caution: Circuit 1240 is protected by a 25 amp circuit breaker (LT DRS) and may be hot to the touch if the circuit is shorted to ground.

 

Circuit 1340 is protected by a 25 amp circuit breaker (RT Doors) and may be hot to the touch if the circuit is shorted to ground.

[sonjaab]

This link may help for adding a second battery to your 'ho :

 

http://z71tahoe-suburban.com/iboard/index....showtopic=20692

[DnalE07]

Yes it is that simple. Your easiest point to run the second cable to is the starter. It's right there by the location of the second battery.

 

This is a simple but incomplete way to accomplish your objective. To do this the best way possible to avoid battery problems and give maximum reserve to you equipment without drawing down your primary starting battery it is best to a battery swap moving your regular battery to the second position and then replacing it with a deep cycle battery. Then connect the two using a smart battery isolator. I acomplished this with aan AOPEC dual battery kit I got online at www.dfna.info. It includes all the cables and cable ends, wire ties as well as the isolator. I moved my regular battery forward and put a deep cycle one in its place then connected the two positive to positive with the isolator mounted near the new deep cycle battery in the cable that connects the two batteries together on the positive terminals. The reason for moving the regular battery forward and connecting it to the starter including a deep cycle battery in its place is that all my electronics now run off the deep cycle battery and only the starter accesses the power from the original battery that I relocated to the front. When I start my truck first charges the new deep cycle battery and then when it's fully chargedthe isolator closes and connects the starter battery to ensure that it is fully charged. The deep cycle battery works great because it is designed to be charged and discharged over several cycles and still function and by using the original battery only for the starter I eliminated the problems associated with headlights being left on or anything like that discharging the starter battery because everything is connected to the deep cycle batteries for electronic functions. It's also important to understand that the isolator protects all electronics from surges caused by the starter. All in all a very simple process that took about an hour or so to complete. Now my two kids can watch all the videos and listen all the music they want and never have to worry about my battery being rammed down and being stuck or needing a jump. All together with the kit and battery I spent about $200. Just remember to use a common ground for all batteries and the isolator.