Jump to content

Key Won't Open Door

adbaker
 Share

Recommended Posts

adbaker Enthusiast

adbaker

Posted
Posted

2004 Silverado Ext Z71 5.3l

 

So i drove to work this morning, got out, tried the keyfob and it was dead, and my second keyfob was at home. I tried the key in the door and it wouldn't budge. I ended up leaving the truck unlocked all day after packing anything valuable into work with me. When i got home, i tried my second keyfob and it worked fine. I pulled the battery in the dead one and checked it with a meter and it read 2.4 volts. Its only two weeks old but i guess i got a dud. Anyways my question is about the key not working in the door lock. It won't turn. I don't think i've ever used the key so i can't say if its ever worked. I sprayed a ton of wd-40 inside the keyhole, took off the door panel, as well as the plug at the side of the door, and sprayed everywhere else that i could think of. Still won't budge.

 

1. How do i get inside to where the back of the lock is, or down to where the rod "actuates" the lock mechanism?

2. How can i tell if my key is an original gm key, or one that someone had made that works in the ignition but doesn't in the lock. (the key does work to unlock the spare tire)

 

thanks for the help

 

Adam

jro909 Senior Enthusiast

jro909

Posted
Posted

your cylinder might be seized, is it cold there? if so it may be frozen..have had that issue alot

8.1HD/ALLISON Senior Enthusiast

8.1HD/ALLISON

Posted
Posted

If it's not frozen up somthing inside might have come apart. To get to the cylinder you need to remove the door panel, then remove the door handle from the truck.

hockeypro1411 Senior Enthusiast

hockeypro1411

Posted
Posted

Mine doesn't work in the driver's side either, and I know it's a genuine GM key. Something in the cylinder just isn't lining up right because if I wiggle it around, it'll unlock sometimes.

adbaker Enthusiast

adbaker

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the quick responses, been out grabbing a new battery and a few other items. Good news is the keyfob works after swapping a battery again, guess i really did get a dud the first time out. An update on the lock and key problem, i can swivel the key a bit maybe 1/8 of inch each way, but no further. Its in my shop now, so if its ice then it will be thawed by morning. I'll pull the door panel again this weekend and get the lock cylinder out, see if anything has broken. I tried to follow the linkage rod down from the lock to wherever it goes but it ends up hidden behind some sheet metal. I'll take a better look this weekend.

thanks for the help, i'll update what i find.

 

Ad

u118224 Enthusiast

u118224

Posted
Posted

The locks are seized because they're seldon/never used. Spray them with WD-40 or equivalent and they'll free up. You don't need to remove them.

Stevens03 Senior Enthusiast

Stevens03

Posted
Posted

I had the exact same issue one time. Lack of use causes them to "seize" up. Some WD-40 or similar product will fix them, but I can tell you it does take a little time to work. Just don't bend the key while trying. Just spray and let sit for a few minutes, then start working the key back and forth. Might take more than once. :cheers:

adbaker Enthusiast

adbaker

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I soaked it last night, wiggled the key for a while, soaked it again, then tried it this morning and still couldn't budge it. I'll keep trying but if i have the time this weekend, i'll probably pull the panel and make sure everything is attached as it should be.

 

Thanks again

 

Ad

renegadeking Enthusiast

renegadeking

Posted
Posted

i know this will sound stupid. but if you have chrome or door handle covers take them off and see if that will work. because me and two other friends have 2001 -2002 trucks and all the door locks don't work except the passenger (only on the rare occasion.) one of the friends took off the chrome door handle protector off and now his door locks work. i never tried yet. it makes sense - the key doesn't fully get into the lock and, resulting in the locking pins causing the key not to work.

i also soaked every lock will WD-40 and stuff for locks and nothing worked

team3-8 Enthusiast

team3-8

Posted
Posted
I had the exact same issue one time. Lack of use causes them to "seize" up. Some WD-40 or similar product will fix them, but I can tell you it does take a little time to work. Just don't bend the key while trying. Just spray and let sit for a few minutes, then start working the key back and forth. Might take more than once. :nopity:

I had this same problem from lack of use. The WD-40 a couple times worked for me too.

adbaker Enthusiast

adbaker

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the suggestion renegadeking, checked it and the key goes in all the way without hitting bezel. Thought i'd give the lock another good spray this morning and while i was waiting i started popping off the plastic mouldings around the inside lock and the inside handle. I was about to start pulling the screws to remove the door panel and thought i may as well try it one more time. Popped the key in and it turned... surprised the crap out of me! So thanks for all the replies, especially those that said keep pouring in the wd-40. Now have to go and clean up the half can of wd-40 that leaked out the lock and all down the side of the truck. In case this comes up again for someone else, everytime i sprayed into the lock, i also pulled the plastic plug on the doors edge and sprayed everything i could see there too.

 

Ad

  • Like 1
  • 5 years later...
Mandy Sylvain New Member

Mandy Sylvain

Posted
Posted

Omg I know this post is old but thanks so much. I never post on stuff like this but I had to make an account because I'm going to try this on my husbands truck it's having the exact same problem and we had to call the lock smith because it was locked and we didn't have access to the battery to charge it and the key won't unlock it. I'm excited I hope it works lol thanks!

  • 1 year later...
blaboffa New Member

blaboffa

Posted
Posted

In regard to the drivers door not unlocking I have the chrome around the door handle. Rather than taking off the chrome just grind the underside of the key ( plastic part ) where it hits the chrome and it'll allow the key to insert further into the lock and it'll open. Worked great. Good luck

  • 5 years later...
Marty77777 New Member

Marty77777

Posted
Posted (edited)

Even when new my 2013 silverado's key wouldn't lock or unlock the door! The key simply spins left and right with no friction or anything happening! It's like the key assembly isn't connected to anything. The electric fobs work fine! What's the fix??

Edited by Marty77777
spelling error

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Chuck FB
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I certainly could be wrong but I hear of pickups far newer than that 2007 cutoff which may not be going to the wrecker but are having engine work done and be that a reman engine or new engine or trying to repair the existing engine. Some of it would be design issues as per the cylinder deactivation system that GM has and one of those lifters wiping out the cam and the question of oil changes moving the needle or not on that whole mess, or in the case of Ford pickup engines that have the long timing chains and wearing them out and the roller followers and phasers and some of that certainly goes back to oil change intervals. But in those various cases the truck has all sorts of life left in it and so the unfortunate owner and may be original owner or used market owner that is pouring money into repairs so the truck is not seeing the salvage yard yet but damage is happening by infrequent oil changes. A friends son had bought a 2018 I think it is half ton GM and it had some sort of extended or used dealer warranty on it and of course the lifter issue bites and its rattling and so the dealer had to swallow the bill and was at least 7000.00 and I think they only replaced what they felt they had to replace so yeah, I can see that being a ticking time bomb in the not too distant future. Would frequent oil changes cure all these engineering "marvels", probably not but some engine designs have shown that they do much better if the oil is changed a lot more often then if the manufacturer service claims are followed. New trucks cost so much that there is an incentive to keep the existing truck on the road by repairing. 
    • davester
      Tranmission stays in Low

      By davester · Posted

      get a good code reader, and find out what problems the truck has noticed by reading codes. cheap ones can only get basic engine codes, you may want to get one that can get codes from all the computers in your truck.
    • asilverblazer
      OCI, not when but why?

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      This is sort of my point, salvage yards aren't overflowing with all these 'poorly' maintained trucks - excellent/good/servicable condition otherwise, salvaged only as a result of a bad engine from poor oil change regiment.    In my area, there are no 2007 to newer gm trucks/suvs in any salvage yards. A few are in the 'recyclers' with very obvious reasons for being there - wrecked.
    • asilverblazer
      Stabilitrak conversion to Z71

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Stabilitrack was a stability control, traction control system, that functioned independently from the transfer case.   Z-71 has nothing to do with the transfer case or differential.   If it does have an AWD system, my memory recalls this being specific to the Denali trim, converting won't be as simple as swapping out mechanical parts like differentials and transfer cases. It will require reprogramming at a minimum. Long story short, not likely worth it.   Pulling a fuse, may disable the AWD system, it might also prevent any other transfer case functions.   However, the AWD case was generally based on the same transfer case you refer to in the 2006 Suburban. If it still has a 4-High and 4-Low where the transfer case locks and splits power 50-50 front to rear, what are you gaining by changing anything? A true-rear wheel drive only, what good will that serve? Not enough to go through the trouble of changing out all the parts.    Generally, all the factory systems will handle a 33" tire and re-gearing. Probably a 35" tire too, if you aren't driving like a caveman. If 35" tires are in the plan...   If you do plan on driving like a caveman or are fully committed to 35" tires, an entire re-think of the build is probably in order. Starting with square one, an IFS front end isn't going to be the best starting point for 35's and caveman driving. 
    • PunchT37
      Oil Consumption

      By PunchT37 · Posted

      1/2 qt over full ain`t gonna hurt $h!t. Most times, a whole qt won`t either. Most have windage trays now. As long as the crank isn`t slapping itself in the oil, it`s not the end of the world.   We used to overfill 1 qt at the track, at race time. Better to have it over full than having the pan sucked dry at 6500 rpm`s.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...