Head / Head Gasket Replacement Questions

[Guest pjblurton]

I’ve learned a great deal from you guys on this forum and I would like to learn a bit more. Forgive me for being so long winded, but I want to try and get all the details upfront.

 

I don’t know if this is the infamous Castech head issue yet or not, but let me tell you what is going on.

 

My 2003 4.8 with 706 heads (207,000 miles) started using a little oil and coolant about 10K miles ago and has been getting gradually worse. There was slight coolant staining at the weep hole on the water pump, so I replaced it. The Coolant loss continued.

 

At the next oil change, there was a little bit of sludge in the oil filter. The second oil change had A LOT of sludge in the oil filter and some sludge in the bottom of the oil pan. I have very little smoke from the tail pipe at startup, but none once it warms up. I am now loosing about 1 gallon of coolant every 5000 miles and have started changing the oil at 2500 mile intervals.

 

The truck runs great; there are no noises or check engine lights or anything else to point to any issues. When the leak first started, I ran a pressure check on the coolant system and it did not loose any pressure for 45min. I also ran the test to check for combustion gas in the coolant system and none was detected. The oil pressure and temperature are within normal ranges and it has NEVER run hot.

 

My first inclination, with over 200,000 miles on the motor, is to replace or rebuild the whole engine. Financially, I cannot do this right now. My second thought would be to replace the heads, the head gaskets and then drop and clean the oil pan. Then cross my fingers while I save for a new motor.

 

My question is;

A. Is there anything else I should consider IF I take the route of replacing the heads, head gaskets and cleaning the oil pan?

1. Should I go ahead and replace the oil pump and oil pump screen?

2. Should I replace the head bolts? (Isn’t that required?)

3. Can the oil pan be removed without lifting the engine?

 

I found some complete re-manufactured heads for $365 shipped. (Anyone with experience with these folks PLEASE chime in) I can also get a Fel-Pro head gasket set for about $170 and Fel-Pro oil pan gasket set around $40. Figure in another $100 for coolant, oil and misc supplies and I can get the job done for under $700 (not counting the oil pump and screen). I might be able to swing that if it will buy me a couple of years. This of course assumes that the heads are in fact bad.

 

Any info, tips, tricks or advice you guys have is greatly appreciated. I have read the Castech head threads on here till I’m blue in the face but I know with the amount of coolant I am loosing, something need to be done soon. Can ya’ll help a brother out?

[Sly]

I’ve learned a great deal from you guys on this forum and I would like to learn a bit more. Forgive me for being so long winded, but I want to try and get all the details upfront.

 

I don’t know if this is the infamous Castech head issue yet or not, but let me tell you what is going on.

 

My 2003 4.8 with 706 heads (207,000 miles) started using a little oil and coolant about 10K miles ago and has been getting gradually worse. There was slight coolant staining at the weep hole on the water pump, so I replaced it. The Coolant loss continued.

 

At the next oil change, there was a little bit of sludge in the oil filter. The second oil change had A LOT of sludge in the oil filter and some sludge in the bottom of the oil pan. I have very little smoke from the tail pipe at startup, but none once it warms up. I am now loosing about 1 gallon of coolant every 5000 miles and have started changing the oil at 2500 mile intervals.

 

The truck runs great; there are no noises or check engine lights or anything else to point to any issues. When the leak first started, I ran a pressure check on the coolant system and it did not loose any pressure for 45min. I also ran the test to check for combustion gas in the coolant system and none was detected. The oil pressure and temperature are within normal ranges and it has NEVER run hot.

 

My first inclination, with over 200,000 miles on the motor, is to replace or rebuild the whole engine. Financially, I cannot do this right now. My second thought would be to replace the heads, the head gaskets and then drop and clean the oil pan. Then cross my fingers while I save for a new motor.

 

My question is;

A. Is there anything else I should consider IF I take the route of replacing the heads, head gaskets and cleaning the oil pan?

1. Should I go ahead and replace the oil pump and oil pump screen?

2. Should I replace the head bolts? (Isn’t that required?)

3. Can the oil pan be removed without lifting the engine?

 

I found some complete re-manufactured heads for $365 shipped. (Anyone with experience with these folks PLEASE chime in) I can also get a Fel-Pro head gasket set for about $170 and Fel-Pro oil pan gasket set around $40. Figure in another $100 for coolant, oil and misc supplies and I can get the job done for under $700 (not counting the oil pump and screen). I might be able to swing that if it will buy me a couple of years. This of course assumes that the heads are in fact bad.

 

Any info, tips, tricks or advice you guys have is greatly appreciated. I have read the Castech head threads on here till I’m blue in the face but I know with the amount of coolant I am loosing, something need to be done soon. Can ya’ll help a brother out?

 

Hard to say with 200K on it. You could drop $700 and the motor may let loose the next week. Might run another 100k. Depending on how long it will take to save for a new engine you might be able to continue to nurse it along and save the 700 bucks for the new engine. Sorry I can't give you a time table. You never know. Good luck!

[Guest pjblurton]

Good luck!

 

Thanks

[rdnkcpa]

I'm in the process of replacing the heads on my 2004 5.3L. I have the dreaded Castech problem. I searched the internet as well for replacement heads and came across some for about the same price as you. I called the place and the castings for the heads come from China. I'm not crazy about anything made in China. The ones on the internet are half what I'm paying.

 

A good friend of my dad's owns a machine shop near where we live. This guy is in the business of building high performance engines and knows what he's doing. He got me new head castings (domestic source) reground all of my valves, tested the springs and replaced as necessary and put all new guides and seals in. I got the heads, valve grind kit (includes all gaskets & seals), new head bolts, & new lifters for $1,300.00. This was a little more than I budgeted for, but it is quality stuff. Just the heads were $780.00(included pressure testing of the old heads). You will need to buy new head gaskets & head bolts. I had to replace the lifters as well, I had one that was sticking. Lifters were $11.50 each. I also have a couple of push rods that have worn a little funny on the ends and I'm going to replace those. I'm also replacing all the spark plugs, wires, upper and lower radiator hoses, belts, and depending on how motivated I am, the water pump as well. I quickly blew the budget of $1,200.00, I'm approaching $1,600 in parts. I have 114K on the truck now, this should extend the life for hopefully at least another 100k.

 

All the parts are in my garage, I hope to get this done by the end of the month.

[babydeuce]

I’ve learned a great deal from you guys on this forum and I would like to learn a bit more. Forgive me for being so long winded, but I want to try and get all the details upfront.

 

I don’t know if this is the infamous Castech head issue yet or not, but let me tell you what is going on.

 

My 2003 4.8 with 706 heads (207,000 miles) started using a little oil and coolant about 10K miles ago and has been getting gradually worse. There was slight coolant staining at the weep hole on the water pump, so I replaced it. The Coolant loss continued.

 

At the next oil change, there was a little bit of sludge in the oil filter. The second oil change had A LOT of sludge in the oil filter and some sludge in the bottom of the oil pan. I have very little smoke from the tail pipe at startup, but none once it warms up. I am now loosing about 1 gallon of coolant every 5000 miles and have started changing the oil at 2500 mile intervals.

 

The truck runs great; there are no noises or check engine lights or anything else to point to any issues. When the leak first started, I ran a pressure check on the coolant system and it did not loose any pressure for 45min. I also ran the test to check for combustion gas in the coolant system and none was detected. The oil pressure and temperature are within normal ranges and it has NEVER run hot.

 

My first inclination, with over 200,000 miles on the motor, is to replace or rebuild the whole engine. Financially, I cannot do this right now. My second thought would be to replace the heads, the head gaskets and then drop and clean the oil pan. Then cross my fingers while I save for a new motor.

 

My question is;

A. Is there anything else I should consider IF I take the route of replacing the heads, head gaskets and cleaning the oil pan?

1. Should I go ahead and replace the oil pump and oil pump screen?

2. Should I replace the head bolts? (Isn’t that required?)

3. Can the oil pan be removed without lifting the engine?

 

I found some complete re-manufactured heads for $365 shipped. (Anyone with experience with these folks PLEASE chime in) I can also get a Fel-Pro head gasket set for about $170 and Fel-Pro oil pan gasket set around $40. Figure in another $100 for coolant, oil and misc supplies and I can get the job done for under $700 (not counting the oil pump and screen). I might be able to swing that if it will buy me a couple of years. This of course assumes that the heads are in fact bad.

 

Any info, tips, tricks or advice you guys have is greatly appreciated. I have read the Castech head threads on here till I’m blue in the face but I know with the amount of coolant I am loosing, something need to be done soon. Can ya’ll help a brother out?

I am just going to throw this out there...all the head bolts will have to be replaced, as they are torque to yield bolts that cannot be safely reused, and they are not cheap!

 

the 4.8 is not a high demand engine, and you should be able to find a running example out of a wrecked truck with semi low miles for under 1K.

 

3 years ago, I bought a 5.3L with trans/accessories/computer with 51K on the clock for 1400 bucks from a wrecking yard. I sold all the accessories and harness for 500 bucks. You should be able to find a 4.8 without everything for under 1K easy. Most wrecking yards will give you some type warranty. You can also get a "carfax" report on the VIN of the vehicle the engine is coming out of to find out the milage. Just a thought.

 

Jack

[Guest pjblurton]

I'm approaching $1,600 in parts.

 

3 years ago, I bought a 5.3L with trans/accessories/computer with 51K on the clock for 1400 bucks from a wrecking yard.

 

 

Thanks guys!

I have found a 100% NEW complete GenIII 4.8 still on the crate for $2000 shipped. And by complete, I mean COMPLETE! Includes throttle body, fuel rails, coil packs, exhaust manifolds, EGR valve, water pump, spark plugs and wires, balancer.... COM-PLETE!

I'm thinking strongly about kepping my $700 and saving up the rest and picking that up this spring. I can't really justify anything more than head gaskets on a 210K mile motor.

 

I think I'll keep the oil changed and the coolant full till then.