Keep Blowing Subs

[RaGeFeAr]

OK, heres the deal I keep blowing subs and I'm quite tired of it. I blew a pair of audiobahn Dubs (no real surprise there) then I blew a Ground Zero sub, and now I just blew an RE, all using the sub thump box.

 

Subthump box link

 

RE Audio SEX 10"

 

I'm getting pissed, this is costing me cash. The thing is, I don't blast it often, I usually listen to talk radio but every once in a while I wanna thump. I am beginning to think that its really the box that isn't sufficient enough for the subs.

 

What do you guys think? I think I might take a ride over to a local stereo shop and have them make me a custom box that is a bit bigger and maybe ported...

[Superperv23]

A box really will not contribute that much to blowing a sub unless is it way out of spec, 0.6 cubic feet sealed is fine for most 10s, unless we are talking about a long excursion which needs more room.

 

The real question here is what kind of amp are you running and what frequency do you have the cross over at? Too much power will obviously pop a sub as will two high of a cross over frequency.

[RaGeFeAr]

Kenwood KAC-8152D with the remote for freq adjustment

 

http://www.foodbankcny.org/documents/news/254.pdf

[Superperv23]

Kenwood KAC-8152D with the remote for freq adjustment

 

http://www.foodbankcny.org/documents/news/254.pdf

 

The remote isn't frequency adjustment, it is bass boost and you can choose what frequency you want the bass boosted at, if you are using this feature then it could explain why you are going through subs. What head unit do you have? If you have adjustable sub level on it then you are better off using that. Also need to know what you have your amp low pass filter and input sensitivity at.

[RaGeFeAr]

I don't usually use the remote, its most always turned all the way down.

 

I don't remember what I had the amp set too, I will have to pull the seats out and look, what a pain. I'll get back to ya. thanks

[Superperv23]

I don't usually use the remote, its most always turned all the way down.

 

I don't remember what I had the amp set too, I will have to pull the seats out and look, what a pain. I'll get back to ya. thanks

 

What I should do then is is tell what it should be set at, the low pass filter should be at 100hz as it is not a dead stop at 100hz but a gradual roll off, so 100hz is a preferable level for a sub thats response will degrade around 250hz. Also the input sensitivity should be set to match your head unit output voltage, it is likely 4v, if you dont know let me know the head unit and I will check it out for you.

[RaGeFeAr]

oh, yea, sadly its the stock deck with a PAC line output converter attached to it, been thinking about upgrading tho... then this happened.... again

 

Also, thinking about it, the sub does clip from time to time, but usually I turn it back down and wait and it comes back a minute or two later.

[Superperv23]

oh, yea, sadly its the stock deck with a PAC line output converter attached to it, been thinking about upgrading tho... then this happened.... again

 

Also, thinking about it, the sub does clip from time to time, but usually I turn it back down and wait and it comes back a minute or two later.

 

And there is your problem, when you say clip do you mean it make popping noises but still works or just totally shuts off?

[RaGeFeAr]

oh, yea, sadly its the stock deck with a PAC line output converter attached to it, been thinking about upgrading tho... then this happened.... again

 

Also, thinking about it, the sub does clip from time to time, but usually I turn it back down and wait and it comes back a minute or two later.

 

And there is your problem, when you say clip do you mean it make popping noises but still works or just totally shuts off?

 

 

 

They totally shut off, no popping

[RaGeFeAr]

ok, I'm not gonna act like this is my first priority and I know everything about this stuff, I can install it but tuning is a bit beyond my scope of practice.

 

I did take the back seats out of the truck and found that part of the problem is that I blew the fuse in the amp, why the hell would that happen??? This system has been installed for 3 years and I've never done that before.

 

I think part of the problem stems from the line output converter, being that I am using a stock deck. I did try to get the best setup for a LOC tho, it is a PAC unit that plugs directly into the stock wiring harness. Now, if I were to replace that with a new deck, it would more than likely be better/cleaner signal.

 

With the system turned all the way up and not using the remote bass boost and freq control I can got thru half a song of Wiz Khalifa.

 

[Superperv23]

You have the input sensitivity way to high, the problem with a line out converter is that it has a very high voltage output, I would say turn it all the way down to 5 and then try the bass boost knob to increase the volume of the sub. If that isnt loud enough for you turn it up to 4 and see. The reason it cuts out is because you are overloading the amp and it goes into thermal protection so it doesn't burn out, also the reason why you blew the fuse, it just was too much load.

[[email protected]]

What he said, you'll burn that amp up also, it needs to be about 1-1.5 then turn the bass knob up till it sounds good again.

[RaGeFeAr]

What he said, you'll burn that amp up also, it needs to be about 1-1.5 then turn the bass knob up till it sounds good again.

 

 

Yea, I have since turned the gain down on the LOC, also on the amp, and adjusted the frequency. Then ordered a new deck. Lol

[Superperv23]

What kind of deck did you order? Did you get the adapter to keep onstar?

[[email protected]]

Are you running your subs bridged in parallel thus creating a 2 ohm load? Because that is the main culprit of blowing fuses on amps that aren't made to carry a 2 ohm load.