Jump to content

How To Activate Xm Radio


Recommended Posts

Posted

How do you go about activating XM radio in your machine?

old man just got a new 2011 SLE CC 5.3 and would like to have it

Thanks

Posted
How do you go about activating XM radio in your machine?

old man just got a new 2011 SLE CC 5.3 and would like to have it

Thanks

 

 

Did it come with the free 3 months.. if so they'll contact you when your near the end of that time.

Posted
Did it come with the free 3 months.. if so they'll contact you when your near the end of that time.

 

Or sooner. I've had my truck for a month and they are already calling 3 times a week to extend my service...

Posted

The dealer should have taken care of activating xm. And like said, they will call you like crazy near the end of the free trial period. I was getting multiple calls in the same day. I had to get a little nasty and they finally stopped calling but they still send mailers.

Posted

Tell them you want to cancel the service at the end of the three month period. When they ask why,tell them you like the service but the price is too high. They have shot me a much lower price for 6, 8, and 12 months on three vehicles and one portable.

 

Now for how to activate, use the band button or flip through the presets until there is an XM channel on the screen, then using the tuning knob go to XM channel 0 or 1 (its one or the other and it is plain which is which as one of themis an emergency channel and the other is the one you want). The "Radio ID" for XM will be displayed on the screen. It will be something like "TMPM92", or something similar. Write this number down somewhere. Call the dealer and ask why you do not have three free months. If you are past the three month trial period or you do not have it for whatever reason (?!), then call XM Radio and talk to the sales department.

 

I reccomend getting names of people you talk to and agreements emailed or sent to you as they can be shifty about things.

Posted

XM0 showed the radio ID, XM1 was 'informational', should have checked before I posted.

 

+1 on the comment above, they WILL probably sign you up for auto-renew!

Posted

Don't let them store your credit card number or you will be automatically renewed. I had a heck of time with them on my last truck, I canceled and they still billed my credit card for 3 month (term I was option for). When I called about that they said the could not give me a refund because the new period had started and I needed to call before that did. But I did not know they charged my card till I got the bill. They when I finally got rid of it they would not leave me alone. About every few days around 6pm I would get a call about re-uping XM radio. Found out they farm out these to head hunters who get commissions to resign you. I thought I would have to cancel the credit card to stop them and I did file a complaint but nothing became of it.

Posted
Don't let them store your credit card number or you will be automatically renewed. I had a heck of time with them on my last truck, I canceled and they still billed my credit card for 3 month (term I was option for). When I called about that they said the could not give me a refund because the new period had started and I needed to call before that did. But I did not know they charged my card till I got the bill. They when I finally got rid of it they would not leave me alone. About every few days around 6pm I would get a call about re-uping XM radio. Found out they farm out these to head hunters who get commissions to resign you. I thought I would have to cancel the credit card to stop them and I did file a complaint but nothing became of it.

just tell them you sold the truck

Posted
How do you go about activating XM radio in your machine?

old man just got a new 2011 SLE CC 5.3 and would like to have it

Thanks

 

I repete do not sign until the trial period is up. Tell them your not happy with there channel listings and that you need a way lower price for 12 months than what they are offering ( they will phone back again again and again )

Posted
and know this: no matter what they say they will sign you up for auto renewal.

 

When you are ready to renew, tell them that you no longer have that credit card (canceled the card, changed banks, or whatever) and ask that you be sent a bill in the mail so you can pay by check. They will do that. I have both my XM and Sirius subscriptions set up that way.

 

And when you try the initial cancel deal, just explain that the cost is too high and wish there was a way to continue the service. With a little effort you can talk them down to around $80 per year or even less.

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Anyone renewed your subscription lately? Mine is up at the end of May and I got the bill from them for $386 for 3 years. I'd rather make an extra payment on my truck than give it to them. Any info will be appreciated.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,903
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    RyGuy43
    Newest Member
    RyGuy43
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 0 Anonymous, 580 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • can you tell if the reader is actually trying to get codes, and the pcm is reporting none, or is your reader just silently failing because it's not communicating with the pcm?
    • Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL
    • First off you mentioned "Toyo Says" and then gave the pressures 45/50, was this some person at the tire shop that pulled those numbers out of his head ?   Now of course I can't know your exact axle weights front and rear, however I have much the same pickup as yourself other than not knowing your starting weight as per the pounds the truck rolled out of the factory at due to the options yours did or didn't come with or what you have added beyond the extra tire weight. The correct way to know 100% where a person is at is by weighing each axle with the typical weight the vehicle is driven with and that means taking into account passengers and making sure you figure in a full tank of fuel and a little grace for whatever you may put in the bed "groceries" !    I am looking at and not that it really matters as all the tire companies use the same charts anyway, but I am looking at the comprehensive Toyo tire chart in the section that your tire falls under and I know it sounds confusing but your tire is not an LT metric tire like your factory tire but instead because its a standard inch measured tire its under a different category called an LT floatation series tire. That makes a difference as LT metric tires they don't want to see run below 35 psi at highway speed where as with the LT floatation series it can be run down to 25 psi on the highway as long as the weight on the said size of tire is agreeable with or less than that minimum 25 psi. It blows many people away that how is this physically possible, an empty truck for one thing and larger tires with the same size wheel diameter have a lot more air volume so they can carry the same weight as the smaller tire with less air pressure.    So my truck, I have the stock 275/65R20 wheels and tires and I have a bit of weight in the box with a bak flip cover and a rubber bed mat and some tools and spare gas. The front of my gas truck weighs a bit more than some trucks of the similar spec due to double batteries and alternators. However with full fuel and just me in the truck I am weighted such that I can run 40 front and 35 rear and so that is what I have done since day one.    If I base your truck at or slightly below the weight of my truck, in theory with your tires going by the tire chart you might be right around a minimum of 30 pounds front and 25 pounds rear. Of course that would hit pretty much minimum cold inflation pressure one could run with that tire size and a near empty truck. If you have access to an accurate weigh scale to do individual front and rear axle weights I would suggest you do that and make sure your topped up with fuel and whatever else in the truck before you weigh it and then you will have a great starting point to work off of and figure out what your bare minimum pressures are you can safely run. If you do much in the way of hot weather high speed driving, bumping up a bit for a safety margin is never a bad idea but just depends on what type of driving you do. I will include the Toyo chart and the floatation series sizes start on page 31. Without a doubt at these pressures I am speculating at minimum wise for your truck, it would most certainly ride very different then it did when you were using 55 lb front and rear.     https://www.toyotires.com/media/pxcjubjs/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20200723.pdf
    • Take an automotive stethoscope to the vacuum pump. Iirc those tick as well. 
    • This landing is worse than most. Patchy blacktop with washouts, soft gravel/sand at bottom that washes out with every heavy rain. I tell everyone to put it in 4WD. A lot of them think they can pull out their trailer in 2WD. They end up digging a hole and then putting it in 4WD.  The lake is a pristine lake and has a lot of money on it. There are several wake boats and lot of large tritoons. The people with the money don't want it improved because they don't want more traffic.    Boat Landing 1.jfif Boat Landing 2.jfif Boat Landing 3.jfif
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...