Jump to content

Speaker Issue


Recommended Posts

Posted

The driver's side door speaker on my '07 GMT900 Silverado has been giving me trouble for a year and a half or so now. Didn't pay much attention to it in the past but now I'd like to get it fixed.

 

I know that there is something going on with it because I don't get chimes (door open, seat belt, keys in ignition chime) anymore and they are supposed to all come from that driver's side door speaker. Also, with the radio on, if I turn the balance and fade to the front left speaker, I get no audio. Turn it back to the other speakers and sound comes through. So we know there is an issue with it! :cool:

 

I can't figure out, however, if it is that the speaker itself if dead or the wiring has come loose. This is because sound comes back intermittently at vehicle startups. For example, I might drive to class or the store and have no sound from that speaker. When I get in my truck to come home, key turns the ignition, and out of nowhere the speaker is making proper chimes and radio audio comes through. This isn't the norm though and it might occur once or twice per month that the speaker is working. It only lasts for that drive and sometimes one more though as the next time I turn the truck on, the speaker typically won't come back online.

 

Also, when it is working, if I balance and fade to it, it doesn't sound like the audio is as strong from it as the other speakers at the same volume but I could be wrong on that.

 

So maybe you audio techs could help me out here and diagnose by the sound of things whether this is a wiring issue or the speaker itself?

 

The only reason I would think it could be a wiring issue is because of how the speaker comes backs on every now and then. I wouldn't think a blown speaker would do that but I may be wrong.

 

Sorry for the long post and thanks in advance!

Posted

This is a very common issue and mine did it on the drivers door too. Its the speaker, replace all of them and never look back.

Posted
That's what I was hoping to hear!

 

I'm not into getting excellent sound out but I would like working speakers.

These seem to have good reviews; would they be a suitable replacement for just simply fixing blowns stocks?

----->http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113KFC1662/Ke..._Size%7c6+1%2f2

 

These are the shallow mounts I have in the Front

And the back is the normal ones Back

 

Could also be a broken wire between the door and chassis.

 

Its not a wire. Do a search because there are over 10 topics of these issues.

Posted

Thanks for the Infinity suggestion Nadie.

 

Are there any other speakers that you might suggest on that list for cheaper?

 

I'm only replacing the fronts so I'm worried that if I put expensive speakers up front they won't sound well with the stocks behind my head. (This is a Regular Cab)

 

Also, do you have to use "shallow mounts" in the front?

Posted

I don't know if you have to use shallow mounts but its what Crutchfield told me to use. Just call them up and they can help you out, plus they send you the wire adapters and speaker adapters for free.

Posted

Alright well thanks for your help Nadie!

 

I'll be placing my order soon and hopefully have this issue fixed by the middle of the week.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
Alright well thanks for your help Nadie!

 

I'll be placing my order soon and hopefully have this issue fixed by the middle of the week.

 

let us know how you make out! i have the same issue and am looking at component systems to put in. might as well upgrade while im doing it!

Posted

I just replied in another post with some pics of my door speaker upgrades. The wiring is there in the pillars so you could upgrade to a decent set of components since you are already going through the trouble of taking the door apart (biggest PITA in my entire stereo upgrade). And no, you do not need shallow speakers, there is plenty of room back there especially if you use the Scouche bracket which I recommend.

 

Ernie

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,897
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ncleg
    Newest Member
    ncleg
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 0 Anonymous, 781 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I have a Retrax pro that I first had on my 2020 chevy and transferred it to my current GMC.  It stays in the garage most of the time, so hard for me to judge it's long term weather resistance.  It still works perfectly, been very durable.  It doesn't see oil patch usage, but it's not a mall queen.  It keeps most things mostly dry (small leaks) and the security of it is enough to slow someone down but not keep them out for long.  I would buy one again, it works for me.     
    • Thanks to the convenience of Amazon, I was able to get a few things done to the truck today.  I installed Carquest Premium oil and air filters with five quarts of Mobil1 High Mileage 10-30 along with a quart of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 I already had.  The latch for the flip up center console lid was broken so I replaced it along with the power mirror switch.  I found my push retainer assortment this morning and reattached the plastic under the bumper and it was only held on with a few screws and retainers.  Then I programmed a new remote keyless entry fob so I can lock my dog in the truck when I take her out with me (I've got to keep the air going for her since it's been in the 100s).  Finally, I ordered some LED interior bulbs and replaced the reading lamps.  The front lights are working fine while one of the back lights only works intermittently and the other not at all.   While under the truck, I found the source of at least one of the noises: the sway bar links need replacing.  I ordered a set of Suspension Dudes links with Code Red bushings.  Never heard of them, but they're made in the USA and have decent reviews.  While making yet another Amazon order, I went ahead and added a set of front tow hooks.  I went with red, since that's the color of the sway bar link and bushings and it should look decent enough on a black and chrome truck.  Speaking of which, it doesn't bug me much, but the passenger side mirror has a chrome cap while the driver side doesn't, so eventually I'll make them match one way or another.  Oh, and I ordered a $20 TPMS reset tool.  No idea if it will do anything for my sensors but it was cheap and will work for the Ford Transit Connect as well.     For tradition's sake, I ordered a new oil change wrench.  I kept the Snap-On 9/16"x15mm GM wrench I bought when I was 18 in the 2006 GMC from the time I bought that truck until the truck was lost.  While I was tempted, there's no need to spend $80 for a new SO wrench, or even $50 with shipping for a used one on Ebay.  I just bought a Duratech 15mm extra-long ratcheting wrench to do the job as needed.  It works, and if I like that wrench enough, I'll buy the set.  
    • The recall is for exactly this issue - those drain holes combined with the limited environmental capability of the tailgate electronics card inside the tailgate were a problem. The “safety issue” was the potential for the tailgate to spontaneously open, but all kinds of tailgate misbehavior can occur from water contamination of that control card.    There is no real fix yet. The initial recall just disabled the tailgate. Later, when parts became available, they would replace bad parts with new parts of the same bad design. My dealer is going nuts because the few times I let them get their hands on my truck, my tailgate is off due to a slide-in camper installation. They really want to cut my tailgate wires, but I won’t give them the chance. I will let them get their dirty hands on it when a real fix (redesign) is available.  My tailgate, which works just fine with sealant plugging the drain holes, will remain safe in a dry storage crate until then.  
    • Yes your absolutely right, I been looking at the 4 inch BDS one and it acutely states you can use the stock 20’s just not the 17’s or 18’s, I also didn’t realize that with my 275/60r20 stock wheels I’m already running 33 inch diameter wheel setup lol so I can just run my stock wheels and tires atleast to start.
    • I would expect that to be lift-kit dependent.  If the kit has interference issues w stock wheels, then the kit/manufacturer should indicate that somewhere.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...