Jump to content

Need Help Diagnosing My Front-end Troubles...


Recommended Posts

Posted

Hey Guys -

 

I need help diagnosing what the problem is with my front-end. The ride on my truck has gotten worse and worse over the last year, until now when I've found that it's super crappy. Any little bump, pot hole or imperfection in the road makes the truck shake and jump all over the road. The truck has just shy of 50K miles on it. I don't use the truck as a trade truck, but do load it up from time to time. I also don;t drive like Grandma Moses, but I don;t beat on it either. The truck is a 2006 1500 4x4 Z71.

 

Here's what I'm thinking:

 

Tie rod ends?

Shocks? (visibly rusty and nasty looking but no leaks)

Wheel bearings/hubs?

Anything else it could be?

 

Here's a little back story. Last year I was having issues with my ABS kicking on a slow speeds and it finally threw an ABS light. For good measure I replaced both ABS wheel sensors, and while I was in there, brake pads and rotors.

 

Now about a week ago I'm starting to get the ABS engaging again in reverse at slow speeds over uneven terrain.

 

The truck is great at highway speeds, no shimmy or shake at all unless I hit a bump or pot hole.

 

Question is, how do I pinpoint the problem?

 

Anybody have an insight, experience, or diagnostic test I can do?

 

Money is tight right now, (got another kid coming early next month) I'd rather not throw money out the window on parts I might not need...

 

Thanks!

B

Posted

You could go to a good tire shop that does front end alignment checks for free and ask if your tie rods are worn beyond adjustment, and could check the shocks and what not,

Posted
You could go to a good tire shop that does front end alignment checks for free and ask if your tie rods are worn beyond adjustment, and could check the shocks and what not,

 

Thanks! Unfortunately, I'm yet to be impressed by any local tire shop/repair center in my area... I always leave thinking "Geez.... What an A-hole!" :-\

 

But that may be the ticket...

 

Anybody living in Fairfield county, CT or Northern Westchester County , NY know of a good, reputable place you can recommend? :cheers:

Posted
You haven't altered the torching bars? Is the a-arm touching the min or max limiter(bumpstop)?

 

Nope, I haven't touched the T-bars, and nothing is sagging under there that I can see. Really the only nasty looking parts under there (appearance wise) seem to be the shocks. They're totally pitted with rust all over them, but when I do the "bumper stand" test, it doesn;t look like the body does any excessive roll... :cheers: Also, like I said in my first post the shocks are not leaking (yet).

 

Thanks for the responses guys... I appreciate it!

Posted

Just because your shocks aren't leaking doesn't mean they might not be part of the problem. I know several people with '06 models that had the tie rods replaced under warranty due to excessive wear.

Posted
Just because your shocks aren't leaking doesn't mean they might not be part of the problem. I know several people with '06 models that had the tie rods replaced under warranty due to excessive wear.

 

So are you saying it's probably both? :lol: I'm sure I'm out of warranty at this point...

 

Maybe I should replace the shocks first, and see where I am? Is there any particulatr test I can do other then jacking the truck up and looking for play when you "push/pull" at 12 & 6'oclock postitions? And if so, how/what?

 

Also, How do I rule out the wheel hubs? Are they noisy when they need to be replaced? Anything I can look for there?

 

Thanks again guys! I appreciate your time and expertise/experience! :cheers:

Posted

i would replace the tie rods. all 3 of my GMT800's have had the rods replaced around 100k, and when even just one is worn the steering becomes very sloppy

Posted
You could go to a good tire shop that does front end alignment checks for free and ask if your tie rods are worn beyond adjustment, and could check the shocks and what not,

 

Thanks! Unfortunately, I'm yet to be impressed by any local tire shop/repair center in my area... I always leave thinking "Geez.... What an A-hole!" :-\

 

But that may be the ticket...

 

Anybody living in Fairfield county, CT or Northern Westchester County , NY know of a good, reputable place you can recommend? :dunno:

 

I live in Fairfield County....moved from Westchester County. There is not one tire shop that I could find, that I would trust. However, I take my truck to Ingersoll Auto Group in Danbury Ct. and have been treated well. They were originally a Saturn Dealer, and bought out Danbury Chevrolet. I always thought the service we got from the Saturn line was great, and that has not changed since they changed to Chevrolet/Buick/Caddilac. When you pull in for even an oil change, the valet drives over a set of ramps, that give a quick look at alignment.

Posted
i would replace the tie rods. all 3 of my GMT800's have had the rods replaced around 100k, and when even just one is worn the steering becomes very sloppy

 

 

Really, ok?! But then again, my truck only has 50K on it right now...I think at this point I have to go with a stage approach, I think I'm going to start with the shocks on all 4 corners, since I see alot of people on here complaining about the Z71 shocks going before 60K, if that doesnt clear it up Ill change the tierod ends, and go from there...

 

What do you think?

 

Thanks for the input!

B

Posted

Go find a friend that has a set of factory wheels and tires for your truck. Install them on yours and go hit the same road. Dollars to dougnuts the shake is way better if not completely gone. If it isn't, check the tie rods for looseness because the shaking probably loosened them up over time and replace the shocks.

Posted
You could go to a good tire shop that does front end alignment checks for free and ask if your tie rods are worn beyond adjustment, and could check the shocks and what not,

 

Thanks! Unfortunately, I'm yet to be impressed by any local tire shop/repair center in my area... I always leave thinking "Geez.... What an A-hole!" :-\

 

But that may be the ticket...

 

Anybody living in Fairfield county, CT or Northern Westchester County , NY know of a good, reputable place you can recommend? :dunno:

 

I live in Fairfield County....moved from Westchester County. There is not one tire shop that I could find, that I would trust. However, I take my truck to Ingersoll Auto Group in Danbury Ct. and have been treated well. They were originally a Saturn Dealer, and bought out Danbury Chevrolet. I always thought the service we got from the Saturn line was great, and that has not changed since they changed to Chevrolet/Buick/Caddilac. When you pull in for even an oil change, the valet drives over a set of ramps, that give a quick look at alignment.

 

 

HAHA...

Rick - I'm in the exact same boat. I grew up in Yonkers, NY and moved up here to Danbury a few years back. I actually bought my truck at Danbury Chevy before they moved over to the Saturn building. I wasn't super impressed with them when they were at the old building the few times I had to bring the truck in for under warranty issues, but maybe that's changed since they're Ingersoll now...

 

Thanks for the input! Maybe i'll see you around town.... ;)

 

Bruno

Posted
Go find a friend that has a set of factory wheels and tires for your truck. Install them on yours and go hit the same road. Dollars to dougnuts the shake is way better if not completely gone. If it isn't, check the tie rods for looseness because the shaking probably loosened them up over time and replace the shocks.

 

Thanks! I still have my stockers, I run them in the winter months. The truck drives slightly better but not much with them on, For sure stuff is worn out under there... Thanks, I think I can't go wrong by changing the shocks then going from there, I'll jack it up this weekend and check for looseness.

 

I appreciate it guys!

B

Posted

A few things that I found that could be an issue. Check the bumper bolts. I had a loose one on my truck and when I hit bumps, the bumper shook. That was one issue. The other was the shocks. Replace them with some good ones, don't go cheap and they'll last longer. I recently replaced my wheel hub assemblies. They had a slight grinding noise when spun, but the wheel had no up/down play. That helped. I had one replaced at 8k miles under warranty and now both at 100k.

 

I still have something that bounces around when I hit a man hole cover or speed bump that I haven't located. I just replaced the shocks again, so I know it isn't them. I'm going to look at motor mounts and bushings tomorrow. I'll find this if it kills me!!!!

Posted
A few things that I found that could be an issue. Check the bumper bolts. I had a loose one on my truck and when I hit bumps, the bumper shook. That was one issue. The other was the shocks. Replace them with some good ones, don't go cheap and they'll last longer. I recently replaced my wheel hub assemblies. They had a slight grinding noise when spun, but the wheel had no up/down play. That helped. I had one replaced at 8k miles under warranty and now both at 100k.

 

I still have something that bounces around when I hit a man hole cover or speed bump that I haven't located. I just replaced the shocks again, so I know it isn't them. I'm going to look at motor mounts and bushings tomorrow. I'll find this if it kills me!!!!

 

Interesting... ok i'll have to get under there and do some more digging around. As for the shocks I was thinking Bilstein 5100s, apparently alot of guys on here had had good luck with them.... What do you think?

 

As for the wheel hubs, I'm wondering if something fishy is going on with them. I replaced the wheel sensors on both wheels last fall, and now ABS is starting to act up again intermittently. But I'll cross the bridge when I get to to. A mechanic friend I have told me to replace the hubs as a when I told him about the ABS acting up, he told me 90% of the time you end up having to do it, of course I didn;t listen and only did the sensors . Oh well... live and learn...

 

So after all your guys suggestions I think I'll get up under there and dig around. Replace the shocks, drive it for a while to see, Then replace the tierods next if necessary, then look at the hubs...

 

Thanks for all the help guys!

 

I appreciate it!

 

Scott - Good luck finding your noise! I feel your pain!

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,716
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    BDS my HD
    Newest Member
    BDS my HD
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 548 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hello hello looking forward to expanding my knowledge of the 2026 2500 HD that I just bought.   Truck has 3500 miles on it four-wheel-drive crew cab and I’m about to put a 6 1/2 inch BDS lift on it 18 x 10 -25 offset with 37’s   Already have the wheels and tires just waiting on the lift install in about three weeks   Question what surprises am I not gonna be happy with?  I’m not new to lifted trucks so I know that acceleration towing gas mileage all that is affected..   Question is those of you that have this truck this powertrain with a 10 speed Allison and have done the mods that I’m doing,,, how bad is it? Is that Allison constantly gonna be hunting for the right gear to go into? And what about towing, acceleration, fuel consumption as mentioned?    Lastly how come I can’t find any ring pinion gear set up for these axles and when could I expect to see them?   I apologize if there’s any typos I’m doing speech to text on my iPhone.    
    • I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had managed to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...