Jump to content

Camaro Help


hockeypro1411

Recommended Posts

Posted

I recently bought a '99 Camaro 3.8 V6 5 spd manual to use as a work car and for the most part it's been solid. The other day I was driving normally, and all of a sudden I started hearing a noise that sounded like a bad rod knock. Upon further investigation, the noise is coming from the clutch area. It usually only makes the noise above 2k in all gears, but is worse in 1st and 2nd, however, it will still do it a little bit in neutral too. My technical knowledge of manual transmissions is pretty limited so I figured I'd see if anyone here had any advice to get me going in the right direction. Someone has suggested that it could be a broken clutch spring, and from what I read, that may be what it is. I just figured I'd try to tap into the wealth of knowledge floating around here as well before I dug too far into it :thumbs:

Posted

Release bearing will normally only make a noise when clutch pedal is depressed. Once the pedal is released, the bearing should not be in cantact with the pressure plate.

 

You may want to look at pilot bushing (or bearing). Does this car have the hydraulic release bearing, does it use the slave cylinder with a push rod and fork?

 

Does it make the noise with the clutch engaged or disengaged?

 

It may be one or more of the clutch disk springs. These springs are the ones in the clutch disk itself and are not servicable. You would need to replace the clutch to fix it. Those trans are not that hard to pull to check. If you do replace the clutch, make sure you have the flywheel checked and resurfaced if there are any marks or heat spots on it. Also make sure you replace pilot bushing and release bearing as well.

Posted
Release bearing will normally only make a noise when clutch pedal is depressed. Once the pedal is released, the bearing should not be in cantact with the pressure plate.

 

You may want to look at pilot bushing (or bearing). Does this car have the hydraulic release bearing, does it use the slave cylinder with a push rod and fork?

 

Does it make the noise with the clutch engaged or disengaged?

 

It may be one or more of the clutch disk springs. These springs are the ones in the clutch disk itself and are not servicable. You would need to replace the clutch to fix it. Those trans are not that hard to pull to check. If you do replace the clutch, make sure you have the flywheel checked and resurfaced if there are any marks or heat spots on it. Also make sure you replace pilot bushing and release bearing as well.

In my experiences with release bearings its actually the opposit of what you said...its exactly like the op described...it rattles when its not in use, as when its being used....its hydraulic in this car btw....it has pressure on it and doesn't rattle. I have found that worn pilot bearings on these engines cause binding and sometimes the inability to get the car into or out of gear...

 

 

Either way...yeah, you may as well replace it all when your in there like you said...another part will only fail a month after and you'll have to take it all appart again. And clutch kits are cheap for these cars...and pilot bearings are like 17 bucks...they usually put a new one in there for you when you re-surface the flywheel.

Posted

is it an nv3500 or variant that came in these cars?

 

if so its a throw out bearing, even if its not you will find it getting to the throw out bearing which will shortly need to be replaced anyways. Parts are really cheap, its the labour that costs...

Posted
is it an nv3500 or variant that came in these cars?

 

if so its a throw out bearing, even if its not you will find it getting to the throw out bearing which will shortly need to be replaced anyways. Parts are really cheap, its the labour that costs...

No its a Borg-Warner trans.

 

Yeah, real cheap....like under 300 bucks.

Clutch is under 200 bucks, throwout/release berring (slave cylinder) pick what you want to call it...is around 50.

 

most machine shops charge like 25-50 bucks to resurface the flywheel...or you can buy a new one for 50-80 bucks.

Pilot bushing is about 5 bucks.

 

Job is simple on an f-body...bleeding the slave is the hardest part....it can prove to be a PITA

 

Oh and get a bottle of blue loctite for your flywheel bolts...

  • 4 weeks later...

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,889
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    smandy
    Newest Member
    smandy
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 497 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Holy s**t - not much of a parts thrower you say? You BLASTED that thing with the parts cannon!  You'd have been probably $1,000 ahead if you had just brought it to a competent shop rather than shotgunning a bunch of parts it clearly didn't need.   Just FYI - oil additives are really, REALLY good at ONE thing ... and that's emptying your wallet. They're ALL useless gimmicks.   If that has the L94 or L99, then #7 is an AFM cylinder. I'd suspect a failed lifter in that case.   If you leaned on wiring, sensors, and/or connectors while changing the oil, you'll have to check all that to be sure pins didn't get pulled out, connectors broken, etc.. Old wire loom that was barely adequate when new is certainly brittle by year 19 - make sure wires aren't chaffed and shorting out somewhere where you might have leaned. or supported yourself on it.   If your a mechanic, why didn't you just find out what you were missing and troubleshoot from there??  TIMED spark, fuel PSI / injector pulse, air, compression.  Can't make ANY money going the parts cannon route.
    • LOL! Are you joking?? That wax SUCKS! 100% gimmick made to "look" good.    After just TWO winters I had severe surface rusting in patches over 90% of the frame. Only reason it looks great in the pics is because I SATURATED the frame every single fall with used motor oil for 14 of the 16 years I owned it. Otherwise it would've been sent to the crusher 8 years earlier with the speed it was rusting prior!    I sold that POS 3 years ago. Was a gigantic headache the second it rolled off the showroom floor. Brakes pulsated on the TEST DRIVE. Door trim fell off the 1st week! Interior squeaked and rattled, and the drivetrain clunked after 2k miles. 4x4 switch failed shortly after. Front end - ball joints, struts, hub bearings - all failed between 38k-50k. Engine started burning oil at 50k. Rear and and transmission failed before 100k. Nothing but problems, and frustration with the piss-poor engineering designed to make you give up. Well, it worked! Nothing on that truck was easy to remove ... except the wheels. They haven't figured out how to screw that up yet. Give 'em time ...   I won't make that mistake again. EVER.   Such fond memories ... https://postimg.cc/K1qf23tS  https://postimg.cc/gallery/X02z64J  https://postimg.cc/gallery/mHSRXZv  https://postimg.cc/gallery/D4mMRfL
    • Different monitors do their test only under conditions specific to that monitor.  you MIGHT find the drive cycle conditions for the monitor that isn't ready on this site: https://lemon-manuals.la/   If it's not there, then it should be on alldata.com for your truck, but it requires a paid subscription.   And you need to know which specific monitor isn't ready.
    • from another thread   Update...although the truck sometimes seems to idle weird and the transmission shift a little weird, I've driven about 7,000  miles and no issues.   However, the way GM has handled my rental reimbursement, the situation when my truck quit, and the recall in general has led me to this point...I have driven a GM vehicle for the past 46 years and unless I buy a C3 Corvette, this is the last GM vehicle I will ever own. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...