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Intake Manifold gasket repair, orange or green?

alz

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alz Enthusiast

alz

Posted
Posted

I have the ever-so-common lower intake mainifold gasket leak that I have been nursing along for some time now. I am finally getting around to repairing this and would like some input.

 

After the repair is complete, should I refill with Dex-cool again or should I go green?

I will completely flush the system before refilling.

txab Senior Enthusiast

txab

Posted
Posted

Personally I'd go back with Dexcool. But you can change if you wish. You'll get opinions from both sides on this subject. Most will lean towards Dex

hitempguy Enthusiast

hitempguy

Posted
Posted

I would stay with Dex and change it every 5 years as recommended or do a pH test on it and change as required.

Also pay the extra and use green rubber intake gaskets as well. The green are built to withstand the increasing ethanol blend in our gasoline, Some refineries are already adding up to 15% ethanol. The orange ones don't stand up well to the ethanol, there is a TSB on this somewhere...

alz Enthusiast

alz

Posted
  • Author
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I was going to use the Felpro MS98000T gasket set. Is this one you would reccomend?

00Silverado4x4 Senior Enthusiast

00Silverado4x4

Posted
Posted

I would stay with Dex and change it every 5 years as recommended or do a pH test on it and change as required.

Also pay the extra and use green rubber intake gaskets as well. The green are built to withstand the increasing ethanol blend in our gasoline, Some refineries are already adding up to 15% ethanol. The orange ones don't stand up well to the ethanol, there is a TSB on this somewhere...

 

 

I'm going to hijack this for a second. You mention a pH test. What is the acceptable pH range for Dex cool. I'm in the 5 year window and have no problem testing but haven't located the info on what is a "good" pH reading.

alz Enthusiast

alz

Posted
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I finally got around to this job after putting it off for two years. Did it yesterday afternoon. Have to pick up a replacement heater hose fitting this morning, fill the coolant(DexCool), and hope for the best.

The only thing that worries me is the seal at each end of the manifold where you use the RTV, hopefully I got it right.

bronyaur Enthusiast

bronyaur

Posted
Posted

I'm just getting ready to start this job this morning. Im using the Fel-Pro MS98000T kit. I'm not looking forward to the job, but I'm looking forward to having it fixed.

alz Enthusiast

alz

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Job is complete and truck is up and running again. Was raining all day yesterday and really hard to tell if I have any leaks since the truck and ground were always wet with rain.

Still trying to get all the air out of the cooling system. When I get on the gas, I hear the gurgling sound from the heater core still. Will work on it more today.

Any tips are welcome.

bronyaur Enthusiast

bronyaur

Posted
Posted

Finished earlier today. Runs good and there aren't any leaks, but I have a P1345 code. When I pulled the distributor I found that the tab containing the hole for the screw that holds down the back of the cap had broken in half. So, I had to buy a new distributor. I had a little trouble getting the oil pump turned so that the distributor went back in exactly the same as the old one came out, but I eventually got it. However, the hold-down clamp that came on the new distributor did not allow any adjustment, so I couldn't get it turned to the exact same spot. So, my cam retard is more than +/-2 degrees, which causes the code. My next step is to try to get the new hold down clamp off the distributor and put the old one back on so I can turn it. It runs good so I know it must be close, but I'll get it right and report back.

twavor Enthusiast

twavor

Posted
Posted

Finished earlier today. Runs good and there aren't any leaks, but I have a P1345 code. When I pulled the distributor I found that the tab containing the hole for the screw that holds down the back of the cap had broken in half. So, I had to buy a new distributor. I had a little trouble getting the oil pump turned so that the distributor went back in exactly the same as the old one came out, but I eventually got it. However, the hold-down clamp that came on the new distributor did not allow any adjustment, so I couldn't get it turned to the exact same spot. So, my cam retard is more than +/-2 degrees, which causes the code. My next step is to try to get the new hold down clamp off the distributor and put the old one back on so I can turn it. It runs good so I know it must be close, but I'll get it right and report back.

 

I'd venture a guess that you've got the distributor a tooth off. Just my opinion.

 

Travis

twavor Enthusiast

twavor

Posted
Posted

I was going to use the Felpro MS98000T gasket set. Is this one you would reccomend?

 

For anyone else doing this...yes, this is the kit I'd recommend. This kit should last the lifetime of the engine. I've done countless lower intake gaskets on these and that's always the kit I use...unless the owner wants to go cheap, and yes, that's happened once.

 

Travis

bronyaur Enthusiast

bronyaur

Posted
Posted

Finished earlier today. Runs good and there aren't any leaks, but I have a P1345 code. When I pulled the distributor I found that the tab containing the hole for the screw that holds down the back of the cap had broken in half. So, I had to buy a new distributor. I had a little trouble getting the oil pump turned so that the distributor went back in exactly the same as the old one came out, but I eventually got it. However, the hold-down clamp that came on the new distributor did not allow any adjustment, so I couldn't get it turned to the exact same spot. So, my cam retard is more than +/-2 degrees, which causes the code. My next step is to try to get the new hold down clamp off the distributor and put the old one back on so I can turn it. It runs good so I know it must be close, but I'll get it right and report back.

 

I'd venture a guess that you've got the distributor a tooth off. Just my opinion.

 

Travis

 

 

 

You may be right. I know the rotor was pointing in exactly the right place, but the base came with a hold-down clamp that won't allow it be turned, so it would only go one place. The cam retard offset is -16 right now. I'm hoping to replace the hold-down clamp with the original so I can turn the base a bit and get the cam retard to 0. My concern is that when I got the new distributor the clamp was already on it and didn't seem to want to budge. I didn't try too hard because I didn't give it much thought that it might be an issue. Anyway, I'm hoping I can get it off so I can turn the distributor and save myself some hassle.

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