Jump to content

Weaker Brakes When Turning?

CoffeyLover

Recommended Posts

CoffeyLover Enthusiast

CoffeyLover

Posted
Posted

Hey guys, I have what I think is a basic question although I am not sure what specifics I would need to provide, so tell me if you need details. Although my truck has a long travel kit and such on it, I still think this could apply to any Silverado.

 

Truck: 2003 Silverado 1500

 

So on to the problem. It seems that when my front wheels are cranked in one direction or the other, I lose pressure in my brake pedal. It is especially prevalent when I pull into a parking spot. I turn hard left (or right) into the spot and when I go to press the brake pedal, it loses most pressure and I have to press it a lot further than normal.

 

I cannot seem to locate any leaking fluid, and the master cylinder fluid level is not dropping. Any ideas? I have aftermarket rotors but the calipers are stock. Maybe the fluid compound is worn out and just needs to be flushed?

 

Thanks for any help in advance,

Blake

Doug_Scott Senior Enthusiast

Doug_Scott

Posted
Posted

I think you will find you have a bad wheel bearing. If the bearing is loose, it will allow the wheel to "wobble" in relation to the hub and caliper. This will make the rotor push the brake pad back into the caliper, and when you brake, the pad has to be pushed back out. Jack the truck up, and grab the tire at the top and bottom, push/pull the tire looking for play. You will want to also check all the fasteners you touched when installing the rotors.

SierraJoe1110 Enthusiast

SierraJoe1110

Posted
Posted

Its not possible its the abs kicking on is it? I had that problem with my 99 and I know a couple of guys who had the same problem on GMT 800s. I noticed it the most when turn into parking spaces. But I could feel the abs bucking and engaging too early keeping the brakes from working. I don't know if that helps with your problem. Sorry :dunno:

jimlem Enthusiast

jimlem

Posted
Posted

Hey guys, I have what I think is a basic question although I am not sure what specifics I would need to provide, so tell me if you need details. Although my truck has a long travel kit and such on it, I still think this could apply to any Silverado.

 

Truck: 2003 Silverado 1500

 

So on to the problem. It seems that when my front wheels are cranked in one direction or the other, I lose pressure in my brake pedal. It is especially prevalent when I pull into a parking spot. I turn hard left (or right) into the spot and when I go to press the brake pedal, it loses most pressure and I have to press it a lot further than normal.

 

I cannot seem to locate any leaking fluid, and the master cylinder fluid level is not dropping. Any ideas? I have aftermarket rotors but the calipers are stock. Maybe the fluid compound is worn out and just needs to be flushed?

 

Thanks for any help in advance,

Blake

 

Blake,

Do you have vacuum assisted power brakes or the system that uses fluid lines from the power steering pump? I don't know what the P/S based system is called but I have it on my '02. I've noticed the same issue at the same conditions you mentioned. It just seems like the pedal wants to flop all the way to the floor sometimes? If I pump it once the travel and resistance seem to return to normal. I don't have an exact cause for you but I asked two techs at the shop I use and one told me not to worry it was normal for that system (and that it was not actually going to go to the floor and fail). The other said to bring it in for a look but didn't think it was actually failing, he'd heard of it happening on our trucks as well. If you do find out it's something else and it's really in danger of failing, please post and explain. I worry about it every time it happens.

CoffeyLover Enthusiast

CoffeyLover

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hey guys, I have what I think is a basic question although I am not sure what specifics I would need to provide, so tell me if you need details. Although my truck has a long travel kit and such on it, I still think this could apply to any Silverado.

 

Truck: 2003 Silverado 1500

 

So on to the problem. It seems that when my front wheels are cranked in one direction or the other, I lose pressure in my brake pedal. It is especially prevalent when I pull into a parking spot. I turn hard left (or right) into the spot and when I go to press the brake pedal, it loses most pressure and I have to press it a lot further than normal.

 

I cannot seem to locate any leaking fluid, and the master cylinder fluid level is not dropping. Any ideas? I have aftermarket rotors but the calipers are stock. Maybe the fluid compound is worn out and just needs to be flushed?

 

Thanks for any help in advance,

Blake

 

Blake,

Do you have vacuum assisted power brakes or the system that uses fluid lines from the power steering pump? I don't know what the P/S based system is called but I have it on my '02. I've noticed the same issue at the same conditions you mentioned. It just seems like the pedal wants to flop all the way to the floor sometimes? If I pump it once the travel and resistance seem to return to normal. I don't have an exact cause for you but I asked two techs at the shop I use and one told me not to worry it was normal for that system (and that it was not actually going to go to the floor and fail). The other said to bring it in for a look but didn't think it was actually failing, he'd heard of it happening on our trucks as well. If you do find out it's something else and it's really in danger of failing, please post and explain. I worry about it every time it happens.

 

 

I have vaccuum assisted brakes on my truck, so I wouldn't know about your problem. When I find out what is was I will let you know!

 

Its not possible its the abs kicking on is it? I had that problem with my 99 and I know a couple of guys who had the same problem on GMT 800s. I noticed it the most when turn into parking spaces. But I could feel the abs bucking and engaging too early keeping the brakes from working. I don't know if that helps with your problem. Sorry :dunno:

 

 

I took the ABS off of my truck so not possible :/ Thanks for the info though!

 

I think you will find you have a bad wheel bearing. If the bearing is loose, it will allow the wheel to "wobble" in relation to the hub and caliper. This will make the rotor push the brake pad back into the caliper, and when you brake, the pad has to be pushed back out. Jack the truck up, and grab the tire at the top and bottom, push/pull the tire looking for play. You will want to also check all the fasteners you touched when installing the rotors.

 

That actually makes sense, because I do have to rebuild on the the front hubs. I'll get to it and report back. Thanks!

 

  • 3 weeks later...
badsierra99 New Member

badsierra99

Posted
Posted

I got a question about front brakes. Here's the scenario few weeks ago I replaced the pads on my truck, and just to clear this up my abs quit working. Anyways before I replaced the pads I had a bad grinding noise from the front when driving and gets worse when turning.

 

I'm thinking it's the rotors but I could be wrong.

Any ideas

:tumbleweed:

551852_372988532740834_100000890712821_1131866_344356233_n.jpg

Vortec 350, cold air intake, 1.5" lift, all the rest stock.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • richard wysong
      Electrical Problem - solved

      By richard wysong · Posted

      Thanks for posting, I'm sure it will help someone
    • Brendan C
      2026 6.6 L5P oil cooler leaking oil at 4,000 miles

      By Brendan C · Posted

      New to diesel trucks. I happened to find my oil cooler leaking oil externally with only 4,000 miles on the truck. I didn’t realize this was an issue until I started researching it. Dealer is going to replace it under warranty but I’m wondering if there’s anything GM is working on to fix this issue. I’ve heard the oil filter used is the same as they use on their V6 motors and that’s what is causing the problems. Should I switch to a bigger filter or keep using the OEM recommended? 
    • Vu1can
      Seems to be Missing a lot of Updates

      By Vu1can · Posted

      So, GMCustomerService:  Judging by the Update History pictured above, is this truck missing any updates that it actually needs. If it's just for the infotainment system, the radio is working fine and no trouble with SeriusXM. and Android Auto is working fine wirelessly with my phone. Some months ago, an update notice was sent to my truck. I approved the update and it finished saying that the update was successful, but it seems that whatever that update was, it didn't actually get installed - at least not if I'm to go by the Update History shown above.   So, again, are there any updates that this truck really should have? I've checked with my dealer but they're reluctant or commit to anything and if I want them to check, they require a $200.00 fee just to check it out and then I'd have to pay for the actual update(s).    Ignorance is bliss, and if none of the updates goes to fixing any mechanical discrepancies, I'll just leave things as is.  
    • CNH-320
      Electrical Problem - solved

      By CNH-320 · Posted

      Hey everyone, I recently had an issue with my 07 2500HD GMT900. My DRL’s stay on at all times. Right front turn and right mirror turn signal indicator stay on solid at all times. By “at all times” I mean the only way to make them go off is disconnecting the battery. I tore the headlight assemblies out, tried disconnecting the harnesses to eliminate bad wiring at the harness, I unplugged the headlight switch, no change and the mirror turn signal still stayed on. My first thoughts were : Bad bulb and/or socket somewhere, under hood fuse panel bad, bcm bad, tail light or trailer wiring problem, or some random short to power in the harness.  Possibly a bad ground but unlikely. I had a big clue in the fuse panel, it had a burnt smell. I started pulling every fuse that had to do with DRL or right turn/park lamp. Nothing made the right directional turn off but pulling the DRL2 fuse made the DRL’s go out.  After studying wiring diagrams, I found that both problems had that fuse panel in common, the bcm also controls both problems but knowing the fuse panel had a burnt smell I removed and disassembled the fuse panel and found a little corrosion on the printed circuit board.  I ordered a new fuse panel from Amazon for like $260. When it arrived I installed it, and put everything back together, the problem was fixed. I figured the fuse panel needed to be replaced anyway so that was a logical place to start. Hopefully this story helps someone in the future. Regretfully I didn’t scan for codes before I did everything.
    • 2022LtTbZ71
      Service 4wd, ESC light, traction control light on, Service charging system (vehicle may stall)

      By 2022LtTbZ71 · Posted

      That stinks. I’m sitting on the side of the road right now with the same issue. Never had an issue before taking it in for the ground strap recall. Now I’m outside of warranty and they’ll probably want $200 just to diagnose what they already “fixed”. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...