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I need help with the 4L60E tranny, again...


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Posted

As many of yall know, I just did a motor/ tranny swap in my 02 Silverado. Screwed up the first time putting the tranny in, but no worries b/c I had a parts tranny. Well, got it all together and drove it for about a week, and it ran great. Next thing I know, I'm heading home from work pulling a 20 foot trailer (empty; really light) and the engine rpm's sit at 4k and I'm not going anywhere while trying to go up a hill. I thought it was the pump, because I had to swap the pumps from my old tranny which had 160k miles on it. I get it back to work and pull a line to see if it's pumping fluid and sure enough, its spewwing it everywhere. So now I'm stumped, with a couple questions:

 

1) Is it the pump, even though it pumped fluid? (the fluid while driving would get as high as 190 degrees)

 

2) If it is the pump, did I cook my tranny?

 

3) Would it be easier to just buy a rebuilt tranny from, lets say, Monster Transmission? :)

 

4) If I did go route (3), what stall converter should I get?

 

 

PS: It will start moving in drive or reverse if I get the rpm's high enough, but it maxxes out at lets say 20 mph. This is deff. a problem

 

 

 

If I left anything out, then please say so. I'm no expert, which is why I turned to yall

Posted

the tranny is done ,when the piston in the clutch pack goes to its end travel and cant hold it ,it slips ,

 

used tranny in it now ??? oil condition,?? black burned ?

 

just get a rebuilt from somewhere and not worry about the GD stall of a converter ,,its a truck not a race car

 

 

tranny should come with a converter,,

 

if oil is fine ,have a tech hook up a pressure gauge to it and go thru the diagnoses

Posted

+1 Trannys are one thing you can not just throw used parts together and hope they work. They need be gone through top to bottom and done right if you want it to last.

Posted

Fluid is still red, not burned or anything.

 

It is a used tranny with 100k miles on it, but in the truck we took it out of it ran fine, shifted fine, seemed to be nothing wrong with it...

 

I realized I should have not rushed and should of just put a new pump in, now its costing me $2k

 

As for the converter, since I'm replacing the tranny, I might as well do a higher stall converter as this would be the best time

Posted

As for the diagnosis, you will need someone with some experience to go over it.

 

If you really want a different / non-stock type stall convertor then try a convertor for a inline 6 Trailblazer. It will drive very tight, it can still tow but it gives a couple hundred Rpms higher stall speed

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