Jump to content

Rear swaybar (why not factory installed)?


Recommended Posts

Posted

I've put rear Addco swaybars on just about every car I own and bought one for my dad's 98 1500 Express conversion van for Chistmas and put it on back in the winter.

 

I took my family to the beach last week and WOW what a difference. The van is much more stable and doesn't stray all over the road yet doesn't ride any harder.

 

My question is why do car companies not install these from the factory ? I could understand why making the vehicle a 1/2 ton, otherwise a ton would ride harsher or bounce more.

 

Is it a money saving deal? It knocks $200 off the cost of the vehicle?

 

I mean I paid $220 for the swaybar and it was worth every penny, If I were buying a new vehicle and the vehicle wanders because it's so top heavy then that would make me look at something else.

 

Dad used to have a 15 passenger Ford E350 which was a ton yet had a higher center of gravity and was much more stable at highway speeds.

 

The Chevy's 1/2 frame and fiberglass top made the vehicle quite scary to drive in winter weather.

Posted

Like I said, it makes anything handle sloppy much more stable. I added one to my 68 Fairlane and it handles like a sportscar now. Too bad it has manual steering because it requires three times the turns to make the same turn as something else with power steering due to gear ratio making it easier to steer.

 

Also my Yugo used to eat tires every 4k miles and would squeel around turns. Now it doesn't.

 

It is definetley a worthwhile investment.

 

If Dad sells me his van, my next mod will be ton springs in the rear to make it even more stable.

 

I'm not trying to make this van handle like a sportscar, just trying to make it be more stable at highway speeds. I'm serious there have been times I thought the van was going to flip over due to high winds.

Posted

I've thought about adding one to mine... but honestly, just don't know whether it would be worth the expense.

 

 

Its worth it you are not a hardcore offroad person. I had my truck about a week before i started looking at adding a rear sway bar. My truck rarely goes off the pavement and I didn't care for the body roll/lean while taking the on/off highway ramps at speed (merging is key around here). Went with a Hellwig brand sway bar, cost about $350 and an afternnoon in the driveway. Money well spent, the truck handles alot better.

Posted

I put one on my 98 K1500 because it was terrible without it. Made it handle much better. I don't think my 2011 Sierra needs one, I don't know why the big difference. I think one reason they don't put them on trucks is so the customer will not overdrive the vehicle's capability. The massive lean in turns tells the average person to slow down.

Posted

There are lots of parts that they stopped using to save a dime. I doubt the rear sway bar would cost GM any more about $20 for materials at the volume they sell.

Back when radial tires first came out, cars with sway bars could be converted to radial tire, but, no sway bars and the reputable tire dealers would not sell radial tires to vehicles not having them. GM called it Radial Tuned Suspension.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Thank You Another JR, I watched the transmission temp the highest was 214, the engine temp seemed normal.  Hoping not a valve body issue, but...
    • dexos began as an effort for GM to control the oil change market because the Quick Lube Industry was eating into dealer service department profits big time. So they attempted to get other oem’s to develop standards as well and that would make it hard for Quick Lubes to compete because all the oems would be different. GM faced lot of industry push-back, mostly the quick-lube industry and they went to licenses. Still GM it making a ton of money (est'd 30-40 million in 2025) off the license structure as they charge a hefty fee to get oil tested then require a royalty on ALL gallons sold applicable to GM vehicles. 
    • Those are parts changers. It can get expensive though. I was a mechanic for 30 yrs. My truck has made this noise since new. I really don`t know what it is. It really doesn`t bother me. I`m still in warranty but have not brought it to the dealer.   I`m not buying the oil pump prime thing. Screw the TSB. I believe it`s in the trans pump gears. They rattle when that piss poor ULV oil drains off after a while. I believe those sharp tooth gears, with backlash, can rattle when dry. Not a vane style oil pump. Wonder who`s right? Me, or the TSB?🤔   Maybe I`m wrong?
    • Sounds about right. I miss the days of mechanics lol. 
    • On the PCM side, blue PCM connector, pin 18, solid gray color (no stripe) wire circuit 435.  That is the EGR low circuit which an issue on that line (be it the wiring, the PCM or the EGR valve or system performance) will trigger P0401 when it tests that code.     There is also a VERY old TSB that states to make sure you clear the DTCs ANY time the PCM is unplugged, reprogrammed, or if the EGR valve is unplugged or replaced as the PCM has an auto zero function in the PCM for the EGR pintle data   61-65-59: SMU - SECTION 6E - ENGINE CONTROLS - CLEAR DTC'S - (Nov 25, 1996)   "CLEAR ANY DTCS FROM THE VCM ANYTIME AFTER DOING VCM REPLACEMENT/ PROGRAMMING, TURNING THE IGNITION ON WHILE THE EGR VALVE IS DISCONNECTED, OR REPLACING THE EGR VALVE."   Some diagnostic aid notes in the GM diag on P0401 for a 1995 S10 Blazer:   Diagnostic Aids Notice: In order to prevent further damage if the EGR valve shows signs of excessive heat, check the exhaust system for blockage (possibly a plugged converter) using the procedure found on the restricted exhaust system check. If the exhaust system is restricted, repair the cause; one of which might be an injector which is open due to one of the following reasons: Stuck Grounded driver circuit Check the oil for possible fuel contamination if a stuck open fuel injector is found. Poor connection or damaged harness - Inspect VCM harness connectors for the following conditions: Backed out terminal BL 18 Improper mating Broken locks Improperly formed or damaged terminal Poor terminal to wire connection Damaged harness Intermittent test - If connections and harness check OK, monitor a digital voltmeter connected between terminal BL 18 and ground while moving related connectors and wiring harness. If the failure is induced, the voltage reading will change.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...