Jump to content

C0035 Fix?


Recommended Posts

Posted

Ok, i cleaned the sensor and reinstalled everyrhing. Cleared out the code and drove 10 miles home. Scanned it again but still pulled the same code. Now what?

Posted

have it diagnosed thats what ,,,heres the code service info for you ,,good luck

 

 

it didnt come out that well for some reason ,hope it makes sense

DTC C0035 or C0040



Circuit Description

As the wheels spin, each wheel speed sensor produces an AC signal. The
electronic brake control module (EBCM) uses the frequency of the AC signals to
calculate each wheel speed.


DTC Descriptors

This diagnostic procedure supports the following DTCs:







DTC C0035 Left Front Wheel Speed Sensor
Circuit






DTC C0040 Right Front Wheel Speed Sensor
Circuit

Conditions for Running the DTC





The ignition is
ON.






The vehicle speed is greater than 13 km/h
(8 mph).

Conditions for Setting the DTC

Any of the following occurrences may cause the DTC to set.







The EBCM detects an open or shorted wheel speed
sensor circuit for 500 milliseconds.






The EBCM detects the absence of a wheel speed
sensor signal for 5 seconds. If more than one absent wheel speed sensor signal
is detected, the condition must be present for 120 seconds to set
DTCs.






The EBCM detects an erratic wheel speed sensor
signal for 200 milliseconds.

Action Taken When the DTC Sets





The EBCM disables the ABS and may disable the
dynamic rear proportion (DRP) if more than one wheel speed sensor DTC is
set.






The ABS indicator turns
ON.






The brake warning indicator may turn
ON.

The actions above are maintained during subsequent ignition cycles until the
EBCM completes a power up self-test. This test concludes when the vehicle
achieves a speed greater than 13 km/h (8 mph) and the wheel speeds are verified
by the EBCM.


Conditions for Clearing the DTC

The Conditions for Setting the DTC are no longer present and you use the scan
tool Clear DTCs function.


Diagnostic Aids





Thoroughly inspect the EBCM ground, connections
or circuitry that may cause an intermittent malfunction. Refer to Testing for
Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections
, Connector
Repairs
, Testing for
Electrical Intermittents
and to Wiring
Repairs
in Wiring Systems.






Inspect the following components listed below
that may cause the DTC to set:








Physical damage to encoder ring
teeth.








Debris on the wheel speed sensor or the encoder
ring








Inspect wheel speed sensor mounting
surface








Loose or improperly mounted
sensor








Air gap between the wheel speed sensor and the
encoder ring may be too large








Loose or worn wheel
bearing








Water intrusion in the wiring harness and/or
connector

If the customer's concern is that the ABS indicator is on only during humid
conditions such as rain, snow or vehicle wash, thoroughly inspect the wheel
speed sensor circuits for signs of water intrusion. Use the following procedure
in order to help isolate the problem area:






1.
Spray the suspected area with a 5 percent salt
water solution.





2.
Operate the vehicle at a speed greater than
13 km/h (8 mph) for at least 30 seconds.

Repair or replace the suspect harness if the DTC sets.











Step


 



Action


 



Values


 



Yes


 



No


 




Schematic
Reference:
Antilock Brake
System Schematics




1


Did you perform the Diagnostic System Check –
Vehicle?





Go to Step 2


Go to Diagnostic
System Check - Vehicle
in Vehicle DTC Information



2








1.
Use a scan tool in order to clear the
DTCs.






2.
Operate the vehicle at a speed greater than the specified
value.

Does the DTC set?


13 km/h (8 mph)


Go to Step 3


Go to Diagnostic Aids



3








1.
Turn OFF the ignition.






2.
Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and
Jacking the Vehicle
in General Information.






3.
Disconnect the wheel speed sensor
connector.






4.
Use a DMM in order to measure the resistance across the wheel
speed sensor.

Does the resistance measure
within the specified range?


700–10,000 Ω


Go to Step 4


Go to Step 8



4








1.
Slowly spin the wheel by hand.






2.
Use a DMM in order to measure the A/C voltage across the wheel
speed sensor as the wheel spins.

Does the A/C
voltage measure greater than the specified value?


100 mV


Go to Step 5


Go to Step 8



5


Inspect for poor connections at the harness
connector of the wheel speed sensor. Refer to Testing for
Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections
and to Connector
Repairs
in Wiring Systems.

Did you find and correct the
condition?





Go to Step 10


Go to Step 6



6








1.
Disconnect from the electronic brake control module (EBCM), the
harness connector containing the wheel speed sensor
circuits.






2.
Test the wheel speed sensor circuits for the
following:






An open






A short to ground






A short to voltage






Shorted together

Refer to Circuit
Testing
and to Wiring
Repairs
in Wiring Systems.

Did you find and correct the
condition?





Go to Step 10


Go to Step 7



7


Important:
Refer to Diagnostic Aids before replacing the EBCM.

Inspect for poor connections at the harness connector for the EBCM. Refer to
Testing for
Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections
and to Connector
Repairs
in Wiring Systems.

Did you find and correct the
condition?






Go to Step 10


Go to Step 9



8


Replace the wheel speed sensor. Refer to Front Wheel
Speed Sensor Replacement
.

Did you complete the
replacement?





Go to Step 10






9


Replace the EBCM. Refer to Control Module
References
in Computer/Integrating Systems for replacement, setup and
programming.

Did you complete the replacement?





Go to Step 10






10








1.
Use the scan tool in order to clear the
DTCs.






2.
Operate the vehicle within the Conditions for Running the DTC as
specified in the supporting text.

Does the
DTC reset?





Go to Step 2


System OK
  • 4 years later...
  • 2 years later...
Posted

Question I literally just replaced the Left wheel hub less than 100 miles and my service code C0035 "left front Wheel speed sensor popped up shortly after" the reason why I Replaced it was because it was like locking up and making a horrible cracking noise, and once I replaced it, it was good as new/back to normal and now as I pulled into work it happened again. Should I replace the wheel up again since its still under warranty or should I take it in to get it properly diagnosed??? please help and thank you.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,903
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    RyGuy43
    Newest Member
    RyGuy43
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 439 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • This is NOT impact damage nor neglect. There were previous class action lawsuits because of such paint preparation st GM manufacturing plant. Not just the Cherry Red Color. This paint is applied in three processes to obtain the desired color.  The manufacturer will cover for 36 months or 36k miles only. That rust is actually corrosion because of the paint process failure. Corrosion is covered for 100,100 miles or a certain months. However their corrosion doesn't include this type. Go figure. Clearly manufacturer knew from previous paint issues. This started 3 weeks ago out of the blue.  
    • Is it time to put a piece of tape over the CEL? 
    • consider doing electrical testing?  I would guess some power or ground wire/connection has a problem.   alldata.com has wiring diagrams, connector pinouts and diagnostic procedures you can use to find where the problem is.
    • can you tell if the reader is actually trying to get codes, and the pcm is reporting none, or is your reader just silently failing because it's not communicating with the pcm?
    • Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...