Jump to content

Sub Placement question

tyhuck

By tyhuck
in Audio, Electronics & Software

Recommended Posts

tyhuck Senior Enthusiast

tyhuck

Posted
Posted

Im currently running 2 10" Kickers in my ext cab, and will be putting them in my soon-to-be-mine 07 1500 Classic crew cab. But, how would you place the subs? The whole reason im getting the crew cab is to better fit 2 carseats, so access to storage behind the seats or under them is going to be a mute point, so I gues it comes down to getting a behind-the-seat box, or a downfire under-seat box. Which would you use, and why?

Chris Senior Enthusiast

Chris

Posted
Posted

I'll get you a pic if no one else does of my friends 06 crew

 

Sent from my DROID RAZR MAXX using Xparent Red Tapatalk 2

mossbum Enthusiast

mossbum

Posted
Posted

I would go for a behind the seat box. the way the rear seats folded in that body style might hinder an under the seat box.

Chris Senior Enthusiast

Chris

Posted
Posted

My friend has a behind the seat with 2 10" JL w1's

 

Sent from my DROID RAZR MAXX using Xparent Red Tapatalk 2

Chris Senior Enthusiast

Chris

Posted
Posted

I havent listened to it but they are loud enough to shatter his back window on a frozen Utah morning

 

Sent from my DROID RAZR MAXX using Xparent Red Tapatalk 2

mossbum Enthusiast

mossbum

Posted
Posted

The seats dont muffle the sound any?

 

What about amp placement?

 

bass in non-directional so it shouldn't cause any problems. back wall between the subs works good for amps.

tyhuck Senior Enthusiast

tyhuck

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ive had em under the seat on several of my trucks. I was mainly wondering how putting them behind the seats would affect their performance. If I put them behind the seat, I can still store stuff under the seat for easier access. I I put them under the seat would allow me to keep the jack and everything in its place, plus I can put the amp on the back wall behind the seat, but I would loose the fold flat function.

 

 

Those of you with them behind the seat, what have you dont with the jack to keep it from rattling around?

tyhuck Senior Enthusiast

tyhuck

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Don't have a jack or a spare tire LMAO...my amps are up against the wall

 

 

Dont think the factory jack and spare would help you anyway.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      That one looks decent for the price   BUT..I want something that also supports OBDI/1.5. A lot of the prosumer-grade scanners don't have legacy support in order to keep costs low. I believe the Autel does if you go higher end with them.   For fun, I reached out to a local Snap-On rep because I was interested in the 2600. $1895 MSRP, says he can do $1595. That's still a lot, but then again, that's not a horrible discount for just asking out of the blue. Could probably do better if I was a regular buying off his truck, but I'm not.   Not sure if I mentioned but I didn't realize with USED scanners from Snap On that you need to make sure a) the serial number isn't flagged as stolen. On the newer ones, they can remotely disable the device. B) Make sure it's paid off. If they still owe money to the truck or if they financed through Snap On, the device can be remotely disabled until the balance is paid.   Still waffling on whether I go with a ~$500ish Autel/TopDon or spend bigger money. The value seems to be in the prosumer brands. I'm not giving them enough credit TBH, actual production repair shops use them daily BUT I'm still allergic to certain kinds of underdog products trying to unseat American companies with solid reputations. SnapOn's scanner isn't wholly made in the US, but it is assembled here and they have US support and probably the most proven/ robust legacy support.   Something to think about.
    • Atlas
      Winter Returned

      By Atlas · Posted

      I'm thankful to live where we don't have extreme weather. We might all be blown to smithereens when Mt. Rainier goes, but 80 is warm enough in the summer and I can generally count the number of hard freezes in the winter on one hand. The cars here don't rust and they don't get sun-baked, either.   We have finished off many of our average 52 days of "clear/sunny" weather, though. Sunsets are coming earlier, the nights are a little cooler. It's right around the first week of September when we get our first warning that summer is coming to a close with overcast skies and the start of "hoodie weather" temperatures during the cooler parts of the day. By October, it's usually time to ditch the shorts. By November, it's mostly raining.
    • JimCost2014
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By JimCost2014 · Posted

      My point was: If what you are doing works, keep doing it:   But, I will have a talk with AI to make sure their info is more accurate going forward.
    • Reyben
      LP5 ECM For sale

      By Reyben · Posted

      Hello There I have a brand-new engine control module (ECM/PCM) for the Duramax 6.6 liter diesel engine. GM E41 ECM on 2017–2023 6.6L Duramax L5P trucks Bought it for a project last year and end selling the truck, so i never get to use this ECM LP5/E41 I paid $1499 willing to sell it for $1200 OBO  
    • Grumpy Bear
      Post your UOA, (used oil analysis) here

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      @OnTheReel , What oil was used for this sample? 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...