crc/de-squeak brake conditioning treatment

[ujtruck]

You have to remove all and re-install - if you can please get someone else (certified mechanic) to complete the Job

 

just think how violin produced sound - and thats whats going on with your brakes

 

http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Why_would_new_brakes_still_squeak_when_driving_slow_speeds_15_mph_and_under

[Mossyoakglock]

Even though everything has enough grease and is properly torqued? I don't see why I would need to remove everything and reinstall. I basically did that when I removed the rotors. Why would I need to have a mechanic do it? The brakes work perfectly, they just squeal a little.

[amc31b]

If you are sure that everything is greased and put together correctly, Try flushing the brake fluid and applying anti-sieze to the top edge of of the backing pads. In other words, apply it to the top/inside edge of the brake pad backing material where the caliper covers. So besides applying anti-seize to the brake pad ears, continue down along the top edge of the backing pad and shim. I have fixed a few other cars by doing this because when you step on the brakes, the caliper dives down a little bit and rubs on the top edge of the backing pad, making a squeal noise. Sometimes there is enough play in the caliper mounting bracket or hardware that the caliper moves just enough to rub on the brake pads. The anti-seize will lube this area and provide a barrier to stop the backing pad and caliper from rubbing together, stopping the squeal noise. If this explaination is confusing, I can post pics later.

 

If neither of these fixes work, I would just spray everything down with the brake quiet and give up. Your only other option is to try a different brand of pads and start over. If you were close by, I would offer to have you bring your truck over so we could figure it out togther but you are probably 10+ hours away. Good luck

[Mossyoakglock]

Fluid is fresh. It was flushed about 6 months ago.

 

It did it again this morning so the cleaning didn't help. I paid closer attention this morning. Once I start to slow down and get to about 20-25 mph, it starts making the noise and does it almost until I come to a complete stop. I'm going to take the caliper and pads apart tonight and regrease just to make sure.

 

I think I get what you are saying about the anti-seize. Is it the highlight part in the picture and are you talking about regular copper anti-seize? Would brake grease work too or should i use the anti-seize?

 

Also, should I use anti-seize on the back of the pads where it contacts the caliper or stick with brake grease for that?

 

I'm also going to check the rear shoes. Maybe I have dust build up from the break-in time since I replaced them.

[amc31b]

Mossy- Yes that is exactly what I am talking about! Use a q-tip or small acid brush and put on a generous layer of anti-seize to the area of the pads you highlighted, the edges of the pad ears, the piston faces and the caliper fingers on the other side of the pistons! Use anti-seize, not brake grease. High temp brake grease of any type is too "wet" and will catch too much brake dust. Also, the solid lubricants in your anti-seize compound; Copper, Graphite, Nickle, etc... will be the only thing strong enough to make a barrier between the moving parts. Any type of anti-seize is fine, Copper is great! The only place you should use brake grease or sil-glyde is on the caliper pin bolts and boots. Inspect and clean all of your brake hardware and make sure none of it touches the rotor anywhere. Have an assistant step on the brakes while your wheels are off and the truck still up in the air. Look for anything rubbing or moving that shouldn't be. Put the wheels back on and then spin the front wheels by hand and have the assistant step on the brakes again, see if you hear any noise or see anything else possibly wrong.

 

A build up of brake dust in the rear drums usually causes a groan or crunch type noise from the rear and also poor parking brake engagement but you can certainly try that. Rear drum brakes rarely make a squeal type noise, especially when they are new.

 

Good luck man, let us know how you make out! It really sucks to have a $30,000+ truck sound like a 500 dollar junker when coming to a stop.

[Mossyoakglock]

Exactly.

 

I also thought about replacing the guide pin boots as well. The actual guide pins are in good shape but it can't hurt to replace the boots (cheap insurance). The only brands that I can get locally are either Wearever and Brakebest. I'm sure it doesn't matter which one when it comes to the guide pin boots but maybe there is a difference between the two (all my searching and sources say that Wearever is actually manufactured by Wagner, this came from the guy at Advance as well).

[amc31b]

If the caliper pin bolts have ever been packed with anything but rubber compatible brake grease or sil-glyde then go for it. Otherwise, I can't see what replacing it would do and I probably wouldn't worry about it. Keep us posted

[Mossyoakglock]

Well we'll see what happens tomorrow. Regreased everything and sanded down the pads with some garnet paper. Put the paper on tthe garage floor and sanded just enough to clean the face. Drove a little to rebed them and everything stopped perfectly and quickly.

 

I replaced the boots because it looked like some of the rubber was getting brittle so I did it more for piece of mind than anything. If they still squeal then I'm going to guess it has something to do with the pad and rotor combination and look at a different rotor. Maybe the AcDelco Durastops or OES rotors. Or go with Advantage pads to match the advantage rotors since I would assume they are made to work together. Used both on my dads avalanche with good results.

 

Go figure that all the other brake jobs I've done are whisper quiet and I can't keep mine quiet.

 

I'm going to give until Sunday and then go from there. I'm going to be pulling a trailer this weekend so maybe with the extra weight and heat might transfer more material to the rotor.

[Mossyoakglock]

If the caliper pin bolts have ever been packed with anything but rubber compatible brake grease or sil-glyde then go for it. Otherwise, I can't see what replacing it would do and I probably wouldn't worry about it. Keep us posted

 

Is the sil-glyde not GM rubber compatible? I have used the gray CRC brake and caliper synthetic grease on all my other brake jobs and it has worked well. Used it on two other GM trucks and my mom's Altima.

 

I have read a few (maybe 2 or 3) posts that say that the CRC stuff is not good for GM rubber boots but the bottle says plastic and rubber safe/compatible.

[amc31b]

Sil-glyde and any other type of specific brake grease is fine. What I was trying to say was that if any type of regular grease like lithium or wheel bearing grease was used, then yes replace the boots. CRC or sil-glyde is great on anything rubber, even GM brake boots.

 

So now that it has been a few days, is your truck quiet now or still noisy???

[amc31b]

Akebono are not cheap, price or quality wise. Akebono is the OEM Manufacturer for most factory brake pads including most GM. Just because he didn't use your favorite brand of pads doesn't mean he went cheap.

[Chris]

The Akebono were not cheap at all, For the price, i love the life, but am disappointed in stopping performance

[Mossyoakglock]

Unfortunately still making noise. The stopping power is great, just can't stand the noise. I'm wondering if it is a bad pad and rotor combination causing it. Maybe the pads are to hard for the rotors or something. I'm thinking about going with the advantage pads to use with the rotors since they are designed for each other.

 

Or start from scratch and go with raybestos AT pads and rotors (heard nothing but good things about them) Or maybe AT rotors with the akebonos. From what I can the the AT rotors are milled to the same specs as the OEM rotors while also using G3000 metallurgy.

 

The raybestos pads recommend using their drag reduction clips according to the note on rockauto.com. Are they reAlly necessary for our trucks even though they don't come with them from the factory?

[Mossyoakglock]

No problems, just needed new pads and rotors. Originally went with Hawk and powerslot rotors but they produced so much dust it was unreal. Plus they didn't really stop much better than stock.

 

Then went with Akebono and advantage rotors and now have the noise. My two options/thoughts now are stick with the akebonos and go with Raybestos AT rotors or to with both the AT pads and rotors (heard many good things about these pads and rotors). Maybe just get the rotors now and if they make noise go with the pads as well since they are matched for the rotor.

[amc31b]

I highly doubt there is alot of difference between the rotor choices. I would keep your rotors and change the pads. I have had good luck with Raybestos and Wagner Thermoquiets, I would give either one of those a try.