Jump to content

crc/de-squeak brake conditioning treatment


Recommended Posts

Posted

Just a little update. Didn't have much to do today so I swapped my advantage rotors with my old power slots and kept the Akebonos on and they still make quite a bit of noise. I'm gong to say that it the pads that are the culprit.

 

Order some Advantage pads ($30 from Rockauto) today and will swap them out and put the rotors back on when they get here and see what happens. If that fails then its Raybestos Advanced Technology pads and rotors.

  • Replies 82
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

Everything is new except the guide pins. They are in perfect shape. New boots and all new hardware and pads and rotors have even wear on them.

 

When they are cold they make no noise what-so-ever. They only start making noise once they are heated up and I've done a few braking cycles. Example, my drive to the interstate is about 4-5 miles and they make no noise while getting there and while on the interstate. Once I get off and get into the city, that's when they start making noise.

I can't believe I forgot to mention this. When I was replacing the rotors today I oticed that some of the friction material on the edge of the pad had chipped off. I know it was not like this when I originally installed them so that might be why they are making noise now.

I'm going to contact rockauto and see if they will warranty them under manufacturer defect and get some new ones.

Posted

Yeah, the crack could very well be part of the problem. I would try changing the pads to something else and see what that does. Others here have said akebono make noise, they may not be as good as the price tag suggests. I still recommend you try raybestos or wagner thermoquiets for pads.

Posted

I'm thinking the same thing on the akebonos. I've read both good and bad with them but that's been the same on virtually every other pad out there.

Posted

I heard from Akebono this morning and they said they are going to look into sending me another set of pads. He said he doesn't think the chip is the cause of the noise though. Maybe just a bad batch or compound.

 

Even if they do send me a new set, I'm still hesitant on putting them on again. If I do I might go with a better quality rotor (Raybestos At or AC Delco Durastop) and see what happens. Or maybe ditch them completely and go with Raybestos AT pads/rotors or Thermoquiet Pads/rotors and call it a day.

Posted

Akebono said they are sending another set of pads to see if that was the problem.

 

Should I replace the guide pins as well? They look good with no pitting or cracking. They move freely as well. I might pick some up from Advance this weekend since they are not that expensive.

Posted

I too had Akebono front pads installed on my truck a month ago with almost the same results. Mine are dead quite in the morning, then about 10 miles into my morning commute I hear them suqeal like pigs when I first hit the breaks but shut up after that inital contact. And theyll squeal all day everyday. So with that I'm not sure new pads will quite them down. I just learned to live with it. Again only when I first apply the breaks but then they shut up. And I do feel a difference over stock, more bite. Good luck!

Posted

Ok well that is 3 people in a row saying the same thing now! Akebono's stop well but seem to make noise in our application. I have used akebono before and not had any noise but it seems for the GM truck application, they are loud. I now know what brand NOT to buy when I am pad shopping for my truck.

 

Mossy- I would just return the pads to whoever you bought them through and exchange them for something else instead of returning them to Akebono. Your rotors are probably fine, I would just change the pads to wagner or raybestos and call it a day. To make a long discussion shorter, here is a list of all the brands of brake pads I have used in the past and my results with them:

 

Akebono- Good pads but kind of expensive. Peeps here say they are noisey on GM trucks

Wagner thermoquiets- Pretty good all around, good value

Raybestos Pro Grade- Excellent pads, better stopping than stock, no dust but some occasional noise when cold

Autozone Duralast gold- Pretty good but makes a fair amount of dust.

PFC performace friction- Ok stopping but a very mushy pedal.

AC delco durastop- Good but not any better than the rest and yet more expensive from the dealer

Some other brands but I cant remember them at the moment.

Posted

Well last night I replaced the pads with AC Delco Advantage pads to match the rotor. Still getting squeal so it seems like it is something else and I'm leaning towards the guide pins. My stock ones are lubed and seem to move freely though. Could they still be worn?

 

If I hit the brakes hard and have to slow down quickly they make no noise but if I slow down gradually like coming to a stop light/sign, they squeal and squeak. By pressing the pedal harder is it forcing the caliper to slide on the guide pins but when light to moderate pressure is applied, the guide pins are binding?

 

The Akebono's had even pad wear with no grooves which makes me believe that both calipers are function properly. I get no pull or anything when stopping or driving.

 

For how inexpensive they are and it's the only other piece of HW that I haven't replaced, I'll probably replace them this weekend and grease them with Syl-Glide.

Posted

Not sure. I had my wife push the brake pedal while I watched the piston and could see them compress the pad. I'll check the pistons on Saturday when I have more light. I couldn't tell if the top piston on the passenger side was moving as much but I could see that it was moving some.

 

I'm going to remove my pads and have her press the pedal to see if they are moving, which I think they are.

Posted

no i mean is the piston held in the bore securely. Take the pads off and try to move the piston by hand or with a screwdriver, as in wiggling is back and forth.

Posted

Yea, I just didn't have time tonight with it getting darker earlier. I'm going to check that Saturday morning when I have more time and more daylight.

Posted

Remember to lube the new pads up with anti-seize. The pad ears, all along the edge of the backing plate and you might need to touch up the piston faces and caliper fingers. If you are sure everything else is working properly and good to go, you might just have to buy the disc brake quiet spray and treat the rotors with it.

Posted

I know everything is greased. I'm going to check the pistons in the caliper and make sure they are moving too (and not loose). If she pushes the brake pedal with the truck off, about how far should the pistons move? I might just press them in a little bit and make sure they extend and make contact with the back of the pad too so I don't take a chance of popping the piston out of the caliper.

 

I'm replacing the guide pins as well because I could have maybe nicked them or dropped on on accident and slightly bent it.

 

It sounds more like it is coming from the passenger side but with brakes it's always hard to tell. And the odd part is is that they don't make a sound when cold. It was 29* this morning and they didn't make a peep until I had driven a couple miles and the brakes heated up.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,866
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Greg3160
    Newest Member
    Greg3160
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 535 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Late reply, but yes—it works on the SLT trim. Compatibility comes down to the plastic shroud shape behind your mirror, not the trim badge itself. On the SLT with auto-dimming, it uses a plug-and-play Y-harness off the mirror/rain sensor power, so no need to run wires down to the OBD port. If anyone's ever unsure about fitment, just drop a photo of your mirror housing and we can double-check it.   Appreciate the detailed feedback on the install! On the windshield glare—we actually took feedback like yours and developed a dedicated CPL (polarizer) filter to cut down dash reflections on sunny days. If you're still running the cam, shoot me a DM. I'd be happy to send a CPL filter over for you to test out—no charge. 
    • There are no stickers in your glovebox?
    • Look at the numbers on the stickers in the door jam...
    • Yes, every time the developer updates his code, you must recompile. I will private message you with the latest because it changes pretty much with every version.
    • After I wrote that reply I went for a ride. 85 F out. So trans started at 85 F and it shifted the same as it did an hour latter at 168 F. I've never actually recorded the to cold to shift point but it is under 32 F before they start hanging on to a lower gear or leaving the converter unlocked. Both intended to heat fluid.    Yes, brake or bake. Absolutely.      Your welcome. True research ended decades ago. Field trials are still in play.    There is a thing called oxidation onset temperature. This is the heat related oxidation not the O2 exposure kind. For mineral oil that starts at 140 F. So what happens after 140 F? Each 20 F cuts fluid life in half! Does using a Full Synthetic improve that? Yes! By how much? Depends on the base oil type and a few other factors. But enough to notice. Some esters are even higher. There are even synergies between types the will raise it higher than any one component is alone.    Then there is "Hindered" oils. Antioxidant additives. Hindered Polyol Esters can sit at 500 F for years in a turbine.   When a blender brags his oil will 'take 500 F" in service he doesn't specify for how long. Water will dance on a 500 F hot plate for several seconds. @newdude put up a chart showing the relationship between fluid temperature and it's life in an automatic transmission. Here's a version of that chart for Group III based oils. These temperatures are those in the pan as observed as 'normal'. that is you drive as you do for as long as you do under what load you ask of it and whatever that temperature is this graph applies to. Flash temperatures of a few minutes isn't what his means.    Note that fluids held at a constant 240 F have a service life of only 20K miles. 220 F explains the factory exchange limit, eh? My equipment I keep under 180 F and I'm good if the cooler will hold it as low as 140 F. But that's me.   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...