Jump to content

Exhaust Help


Recommended Posts

Posted
Ok in the newest performanceproducts magazine (with the hummer on the front) there is a borla muffler.  PG 18.  It is on a grey silverado.  Exits both sides not straight out of the back.  Anyone have a cheaper alternative?  I love the look but $600 is steep
Posted
Buy the muffler and instead of having pipes going out the back put 2 elbows on the outlet so the exhaust goes down at the ground. saves you money, you get a deeper sound because of the less piping there is to absorb the sound, and less things to get in the way.
Posted

here is what i am talking about

 

101074_200_1.jpg

 

I really like the look

Posted
here is what i am talking about

I've seen a guy in town where I work that has that setup on a black Z71, haven't seen him in it to talk to him though.

Posted
I have that system on my '01 GMC.  I purchased mine from Summit Racing a little over a year ago, and paid $425 then.  It fit perfectly, and took less than an hour to install, once the original system was removed. - Dave
Posted

DS do you have any pics?  Did you loose any power?  How loud is it?  How hard to install?

 

Thanks!!!

Posted

is this it?

 

BOR-140014   Exhaust Cat-Back 99-02 Silverado 1500 4.3/4.8/5.3 AT/MT 2/4WD 2 Dr. EC SB    $434.39 ²  

 

Does it come with all the pipes?

Posted

Ryan,

I can't tell you specificly about the Borla system, but most of those type exhaust systems I've seen are all bolted on in segments, after you get the old system off.

 

I had a Thrust CVX system on my '91 for a couple years, and it was super easy to install.  The hardest part was removing the old system, behind the catalytic converter.  I took it off in my driveway with no ramps, lifts, or anything.  Took it off with a dremel tool with cut off wheels, a big screw driver and a BFH.  :D

Posted

Ryan the Borla system should come with everything all the way down to the clamps and intercooled tips.

 

The one I had was not loud.  It was noticable at idle and when doing normal driving, but not loud or obnoxious by any means.  When you put your foot to it, and the RPM's climbed, it was more noticable.  I was always getting compliments on how good that exhaust system sounded on my truck.

 

Borla systems are made to be very drivable...  :thumb:

Posted

Ryan - That's the system I ordered from Summit Racing.  Gee, they raised the price a few dollars, but not much.  Taking the old system off was a breeze, but I had the truck on a hoist.  It took all of about ten minutes to remove the old one.

 

Everything you need is included.  The system fits so well, and Borla does a nice job on their design.  There's no struggling to make things fit, no hammer pounding, or prying.

 

It's not a LOUD system, but it is noticeable, especially when taking off from a stop.  You really don't notice it inside the truck, however.  It took my truck about 600 miles to adjust to the free flowing of exhuast.  I did notice some acceleration quickness, perhaps a bit better on gas mileage. - Dave

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I just found this same exhaust for my crewcab HD and it's a closeout price of $610 (lists for over a grand, and regularly sells for $750).

 

I'm very tempted, because I loved the Borla I had on one of my trucks awhile back.

 

The only problem is that if I buy it, the wife says she is going on a shopping spree (based on the fact that I just bought that big ole leather La-Z-Boy), and I don't really want to give her free reins on the credit card for a day... If she wants clothes that's OK, but sometimes she buys some really stupid stuff (which is probably what she thinks about a $600 exhaust)  LOL!!!

Posted
but sometimes she buys some really stupid stuff (which is probably what she thinks about a $600 exhaust)  LOL!!!

Sounds like you've got her view figured out.

Posted

Ryan,

 

I have that exact exhaust on my truck - it sounds great!  Louder than stock, but not deafening like the flowmasters.  You don't really hear it in-cab until you really step on it, but I noticed a definite improvement in acceleration.  the hardest part is removing the old pipes - it took half an hour between a friend and myself, we used a hacksaw (got the dremel later).  The kit comes with everything you need, but I took mine to a muffler shop for welds once it was all done - $10 / weld was well worth it, and I know it cannot ever rust :cheers:

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Were you looking at the HD trucks on the GM website or the half tons as that makes all the difference. As far as I know there are only two options for the HD trucks and that is the standard 2 speed transfer case or the 2 speed transfer case that has the added 4 high auto feature and they put that transfer case by default into the LTZ and High Country although its optional in the LT and not sure if its available in the work trucks.    The half tons, that is where its been a total mess in my estimation for a few years now with most trucks below the top trim having the single speed transfer case as standard but with the option of having the two speed such as one would get by choosing the Z71 package, however then not being able to get the two speed transfer case with the towing package unless it was a higher trim truck AND had the 6.2 gas so one could combine the towing package gearing diffs with the two speed transfer case. Having said that if its a trail boss package then it gets the two speed transfer case but not necessarily able to get the tow package as it would depend on trim level and engine chosen. Believe me, people have bought the GM half tons assuming "of course it will have a two speed transfer case" only to find out after when they really pay attention to what they now own .... crap, there is NO low range !.    I don't believe Ford or Ram have gone that way yet with their half tons but like I say its been a few years now that GM has done this with the half tons. 
    • $5.19 for regular...
    • My office is slowly filling with Blazer parts. Getting ready to do the big bang of repairs. Intake (second time), water pump, radiator, hoses, and I'm going to re-seal the timing cover where someone went hog wild with silicone. Might as well, because I don't think that's done right.   There's a local tow yard that I didn't realize also has quite the inventory of junk vehicles. This is an old school junkyard. No waivers. Cash only, you were never here if anyone asks. Don't piss off the owner, or you'll end up in the back of one of those cars, headed for the shredder. And if you see something, don't snitch. Cars stacked double high, wasps nests, trip hazards and junk everywhere. I found a few little odds/ends for my Blazer. The $20 I spent was worth the experience alone. But I was never there. What yard?   I officially love/hate this truck. It's so out of my wheelhouse, roughest vehicle I've ever owned. Every. single. repair. -is so hard-fought, everything that can go wrong, goes wrong. Currently in a hate phase, and kind of wish I was closer to sending it down the road with a lucky new owner, to be honest. Preparing for the day when I tear into this thing...lots of pre-funk with Ibuprofen.   Rock Auto sent me a bad reman rear wiper motor. It was a bear to install. The tailgate in these things has about eleventy-billion fastners and pieces and things that need to be uninstalled/moved just to access the shoddy rear wiper motor. The casing on mine was cracked clean through, btw. Nice, GM, nice. SO I got this new motor installed, hit the switch, I see it wig-wag (without the arm installed) and think I'm golden. Reassemble everything. With the wiper arm installed I gave it one final test. Time to clean up and take the other half out to dinner, collect a paycheck, right?   Nope. I hear the plastic worm gear stripping as the arm hung up. Just like my broken motor. Weak/old and shredding itself internally. I can assist the arm and the range of motion is normal, and it parks correctly. It just doesn't have the poop to actually sweep the arm with a blade on it. Oh, hell. Turned the key off and shut the shop door behind me. I get to do that over again, too.
    • A complete delete is the most thorough mechanical solution, but it is also major engine work. On a quiet truck that is still under extended warranty, opening the engine purely as prevention is difficult to justify. A plug-in disabler stops commanded cylinder deactivation, but it does not remove or repair the collapsible lifters, so it should not be treated as failure insurance. I would keep the oil full, document the maintenance, and have any persistent tick, misfire, or loss of power diagnosed promptly. If the engine eventually has to come apart, that is the logical time to compare an OEM-style repair with a complete delete. The right choice depends on the truck’s symptoms, warranty status, expected ownership period, and whether the engine already needs to be opened. We explain that decision in more detail here—full disclosure, this is our own guide: https://www.bluev8.com/blogs/news/do-you-actually-need-an-afm-disabler   One exception: some 2021 L82/L84 trucks have RPO YK9, meaning cylinder deactivation was already disabled in the factory ECM; on those trucks a plug-in disabler is redundant, although the AFM/DFM hardware remains inside the engine.
    • Brought my 2015 Colorado into the dealership to check my touch screen issues, had that ghost touch thing happening. They said I needed a new touch screen and they could either order me one for $500. The lady at the service deck was nice enough to tell me I could order a touch screen online for less, she did stipulate that the touch screen had to be factory OEM, you can't pair an aftermarket screen to my radio seeing it was 2015, it had to be a GM factory OEM only. I found a few on Amazon and Ebay by the numbers on the back of the old screen, DJ080PA-01A GM# 22740886, Some said "OEM" in the description and others just said "Replacement". Would a replacement be the same as a OEM as long as it had the same numbers on the back of the screen? In some of the descriptions they also show different brand names but same numbers, is that an issue?  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...